Wow, I guess I'm completely off base as far as what can be done for some lower dollars. Maybe I'll save the upgrades for the next winter project.

I've been down this road twice now...

First version

00 LS1 Texas speed 233/239 cam kit. ARP rod bolts and 1 5/8 long tube headers. Th400 trans with 3200 stall conv. and a 9" with 3.25 gears. Car ran 11.95@114 and got 20mpg. Driveabilty was still great even for a driver.

Second version

07 6.0 L92 heads texas speed 229/236 cam kit. 1 7/8 headers ARP rod bolts. T56 6 speed 3.89 gears. Drove the car 650 mile round trip and got 24.2 mpg on the way home running 85-90.

All your driveabilty will all be in the tune. The parts are a lil more expensive but the power gains are worth it.

I understand that the set up you mentioned worked out well and it's great information but as I mentioned I don't have the time and resources to get that far into the motor right now. I'm doing a whole susension upgrade besides everything that's involved in the LS swap and other mods. My goal is to get the car driveable by spring or it will likely not be finished until next winter. My workload increases too much once the weather gets warm. For now, I was dreaming as many do - easy, economical bolt on performance.:morepower

On an LS1 an 02 Z06 cam is a great inexpensive choice. The tune is the kicker. Get that car on a chassis dyno with the right guy/gal and make some power.

The Z06 cam could be dropped in without having to change springs and pushrods etc? I know there is much that should be freshened but as I mentioned not the time or funds right now. Is the cam job a lot different than the traditional small block? What kind of gains could be expected? I had also read somewhere that going to an LS6 mainfold makes a difference?

Thanks

Z06 cam is smaller base circle and so it's probably good to change pushrods. The LS6 motors also came with better springs too although they are cheaper than aftermarket ones.

The cam swap itself is probably easier than traditional and the gains all depend on how streetable you want it, but suffice it to say, you can gain a lot and still be perfect on the street.

The LS6 intake is slightly better although keep in mind later (I can't recall exact years) LS1 engines came with both LS6 blocks and intakes so you may not need it.

The best thing to do overall is read ls1tech for a bit so you know what you can do and what to expect.

You are correct about the LS6 manifold, I did a bit more research directly after my last post. Initially it appears that my 02 SS Z28 donor camaro would have come with the LS6 mainfold and block. So now I need to find out "When is an LS1 an LS1 and when is it an LS6? Is it the cam/springs that make the difference....the heads...the tune....? :willy: The only thing I can say positively is that I have more research to do!:faint: I would give my right *^% to talk to the LS Jedi Master as I've spent hundreds of hours in research starting with the basics of Protouring.

The 01-02 f bodys got the LS6 intake, but a little smaller cam then the 98-00's due to the fact they had to reduce emissions because the LS6 intake did away with the EGR valve.

The last half of 2002 they ran out of LS1 blocks and just used LS6 blocks in the final f bodys. Their are no advantages of having a LS6 block over a LS1 block though, they are basically the same.

The 02-04 Z06 cam is a very cheap option for a small cam upgrade, but I would honestly wait until you have a little extra cash and put a nice cam in that will get you some ground thumping sound plus more ponies. The Z06 cam would need Z06 springs and a 7.350" pushrods too, although I think a lot of people just run the factory length (factory are 7.400).

Also be sure to check the casting number on your heads. If they are 243 you will have one of the highest factory horse power motors you could get out of a camaro (4th gen)

The LS6 had a different cam (the so called Z06 cam), heads, springs and valves.

The key thing is it is very easy to make power but it's not usually one thing you have to change, it's a couple. A cam swap implies cam+springs+pushrods, and then rod bolt change comes into play and then since you're in there, you should probably change out to a better timing chain, and lots of that requires a good tune etc.

Realistically, if you put headers on it and open up the intake a bit, you'll be not so far away from 400 crank hp that you are likely to notice it.

Well, once again a wealth of information from this forum. You've all got me thinkin' and have already helped out a ton. I will continue researching while finishing mock up and assembly prep for the chassis and LS swap. If it appears that I will have time left before to do some motor enhancements and still be on the road by spring, I will unleash a bit more power.

Thanks to all.
:thumbsup:
Gene