I'm heading down to the garage now. I'll see if I could find a spot to mount the GoPro.

Now you have me very curious what it could be. Please keep us posted on what you find out.

As the other guys said, try swapping the old tire & wheel package back on. That eliminates one possibility. Try the GoPro with both sets. Maybe you'll see a difference.

Good luck!:thumbsup:

Just take one of the Watt's link bars off (don't even need to take off the other, but probably good so it doesn't get lodged somewhere). My bet is on Watt's influence rather than tire.

I'm waiting for my buddy to show up with his wheels. In the mean time, if you guys never saw my previous thread on the Fays 2 watts link install, here are some pics to give you an idea of what it looks like.

I also went through my GoPro stuff and I dont have a suction mount but am going to try and figure something out.

http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...ttsLink101.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...ttsLink100.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...ttsLink099.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...ttsLink098.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...ttsLink097.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...ttsLink096.jpg

Are the lengths of your Watt's bars exactly the same? I would tend to agree with Mark that the watt's is likely to be creating the symptom you're describing. Although, that said, I would tend to agree with Mark on all things suspension related....

Yes, bars are equal length.

I strapped the Gopro underneath and got some vid but it doesn't say much about the watts. it is still uploading into photo bucket and I will post it later.

What I did though was take 2 clicks out of the shocks and when I stomped on it, it was fine. Could be because the tires might have been a bit cold so I will be trying it again but that will wait till tommorrow.

I'm thinking the posi is about ready to go because it seems I'm getting more passenger side wheel spin.

Next track day is in September so i think that will be the best time to get some watts footage.

I'm with Mark. Without the watt's link, the leaf springs were determining the roll center. Now, with a Watts, you are in control of where the RC is. Did you match the watts pivot location to the leaf's RC location? If not, you have two competing RCs that will usually cause some goofy handling issues.

But it sounds like you got it figured out anyway.

I agree. I'll have to figure that out on the track though because I dont like screwing around on the street.

Shock tuning did cure the car from pulling to one side but once I get to the track I will be spending more time with tuning with the watts.

Once I cured the pulling to one side I had to work on an issue I was having with the front left wheel. The Vette wheels changed the scrub radius and also created a wiggle/vibration at the front left wheel. Probably due to the center ring of the wheel being on the outside now. Also, turn in is way, way, faster.

I checked everything two, three and four times. Ball joints going bad? Tie rod going bad? Thought tie rod so ordered one last night, but today I was looking at the alignment and it looked like the front left wheel had to much positive toe. Took an 1/8" out and it changed every thing.

Car is ready to rock and roll now. Thank God!! It was bugging the hell out of me!!

All I have left to do before Buttonwillow is get the new gas gauge reading fixed. Ran out of gas while I was trying to figure everything out and the wife had to come to the rescue. Wouldn't be the first time, lol.

So I went on line to figure out how to find leaf spring roll center. Dropped the watts link pivot 2" to match leaf springs and it made a huge difference.

Through new lower Global West control arms in(from original stamped steel ones) and the urethane base that came with the new lower control arms raised the front of the car about an inch and a quarter.

Took the car to Thunderhill and the rear felt great but the front felt like it was working very hard. I think it may have to do with the Z06 wheels and 2" spacers putting more pressure on the spindle, hub and bearings, but it also could have been raised ride height.

Recently chopped the front springs to where normal car ride height up front was(23" from floor to fender lip) and then took one of my CHP buddies out for a ride.

Definitely feels better up front in the corners but then again I was on public roadway and dont like screwing around in that environment so speeds were limited.

Going to try and make Thunderhill on May 7th but my wife will be out of town so I will need to find one of the neighbors to watch the kids.

Trying to set up for Buttonwillow on September 17th and 18th so hopefully I will get one more opportunity to get a track day before then.

Meanwhile, I tried to upload video of my rear suspension but cut it short because I didn't have the patience to wait for a 3 hour upload.

Oh man! I am sadly dissapointed you did not sit through a 3 hour upload for my benefit.
:D
I am just kidding you. I don't blame you at all.

Have you tried running your old wheel package since you installed the W-link?

I would think it's easier to "re tune" the chassis after a single change, not multiple.
Or, just try the old fronts to see if the spacers really are the problem. Having all of that load moved out from the steering "pivot point" will make it feel different.

You put the wieght of the tire and wheel out on the end of a huge lever. The contact patch on the tire is now further away from the pivot point of the spindle.

I know what I am trying to say here. I apologize for not being able to make it clear. I am even confusing myself........lol!