![]() |
Quote:
And CPP arms are great, but I don't think they change the geometry. At least not on the Chevelle ones I ran. So I think we are talking Apples and Oranges here. |
Quote:
He said, yea, they look like clones of his arms.. said his cost is more than they are selling them. Most likely from China and the real problem is you don't know the quality of the material, welding, or that even the geometry is right... after all, you have to cut costs someplace. Inferior ball joints, fake Del-A-Lum bushings. Things cost what they cost so for a part to be half price the maker has to slash costs someplace. Typically in the labor area and in the production cost. Low buck ball joints? How do you test a weld without doing a failure analysis? You can't tell by looking at a painted part, was there good penetration? What type of steel was used? What's inside those bushings? See where I'm going with this. If you buy a Chineese DSE control arm do you think it's anywhere nearly as good as the real deal? Plus I just hate the overall idea of supporting the practice. Sort of sad how it happens.. fairly common though. Don't know I would risk my car on a unknown suspension part, especially if I'm going to drive it hard. Caveat Emptor, but I would rather save up a bit longer and get the real deal from our USA companies. |
Quote:
|
Why would you want chance hurting someone or your ride for that matter,just to save a few bucks , Thats when you stop say Am I that cheap ? LOL :rofl: beside the Quality of Global West Products is Unmistakable , The point is to improve & make better not to down grade our cars :
|
Quote:
Quote:
|
Quote:
I just don't think it's worth the risk.. and I love the "no returns or exchanges".. what do you think thier warranty is a year from now if an arm cracks? ;) I'm all for value, but quality costs money and to cost the overall cost a company HAS to cut somewhere. Personally even if all they did was cut labor costs by using Chineese workers I would still pay more for the product made here by Americans. |
1 Attachment(s)
I bought from this seller, too! The ones I got were for the GM A body. They are good looking pieces, solidly welded and weigh 3lbs more than the stock stuff per side.
The ball joints looked OK but I put tall ProForge uppers in mine. They do add several degrees of positive camber to the alignment. I have 2-3 shims, maybe 1/2" at the most to get my alignment to caster +5° and camber -1°. No complaints in the first couple of hundred miles. Here's a tubular on top of the factory arm to show the alignment difference in the two. It moves the ball joint back a fair bit. |
Here's a little blurb from Grassroots Mag. on steering setup...
Ask the shop you are taking the car to if they have done Performance alignments...If they don't know what that is,leave...:D They are going to tell you,after they charge you for it,that your car is impossible to align.The tech is going for the factory settings and trying to get inside the allowable ranges in 'The Book".I always bring my desired specs with me so they can see what I am expecting.I went to 3 shops before I found one that would do what I asked with my Mustang that had added performance Caster/Camber Plates...the others would not go "outside specs". I had the same experience with my '67 Mopar...I added Moog offset bushings on the control arms to help caster/camber on it since it had been lowered. http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:38 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net