do you have a suggestions to what the biggest tire I could run comfortably on the street? I don't really want to run 335.

I don't mean to sound critical here, but you are not making sense to me. You keep talking about I don't want this or that because I want street manors. Why in the world are you then spending the money on 1000hp? That's a lot of dough to frame a dyno sheet. If you have 1000hp available, I would be listening to these guys and the recommendations they have provided to give you the best chance of using that power and not hurting yourself. Wide tires do not automatically mean BAD for the street. You need to choose all these components to compliment each other. I would put a 345 on that beast. You need all the bite you can get. If you don't want to do all these things my recommendation would be to back off on the power. Please don't take this the wrong way, but no one will be able to help you when your goals don't seem to agree with each other. JMO. Good Luck, sounds like you will have a wild ride! :cheers:

Makes sense to me.

Small Tires Do Hook
 

Attachment 31994I disagree.......there are many many many cars in existance that hook EXTREMELY hard on this size tire (drag radial/slick) and will easily see 9 second passes in the 1/4. Even if your car does not come out of the hole at a clutch dumping or trans brake release of 6000rpm and you so choose to "walk it out" and lay into it.......your axle will still see EXTREME torque and the possibility of it twisting and or breaking is a strong reality.....I personally would like to know that at 140 mph+ that should I break an axle at the hands of 1000hp and a sticky tire that I will not go into a barrel roll. Lets also remember that this suggestion I make also eliminates all other known issues with semi-floater rears as well (piston knockback mainly). Hands down there are no down sides to a Full Floater (other than cost maybe...but in the scheme of things....) and if you are running 1000hp you would be running what I would consider a "marginal rear" at best with anything less that 35 spline axles with Full Floater hubs. Just my opinion and again hope this helps.:)

Sounds like a killer car but I though the same thing about street manners and 1000 hp.

I plan are achieving the power with turbos and I will be running (315/30/18 Yokohama). I also plan to be using a 4L80e transmission. As of now, I only plan to have the car as a well performing street car. So as far as gearing goes, I do not want to be at too high of RPM while I'm driving down the freeway. And from what some people have mentioned to me is that I should go with a full floating rear end. The only disadvantage I heard with a full floater is the price.

Nothing is cheap at 1000hp....a full floater, fab'd housing, 35spline axles are still cheaper than losing an axle at 100mph+


-My worthless opinion

I like the way you think. It will definitely be worth it in the long run. Does anyone like what Moser Engineering has to offer as far as ordering a complete floating 9"? I seem to like the way they're fabricated housing looks.

Floater Info
 

Hey Pasquale, the main reason I recommend the GMR floater setup (not just because I own one) is that it is the ONLY one on the market currently strong enough/being built specifically for the new generation of classic cars. Meaning, high horsepower with large brake rotor capabilities. The fact that it has a wide bearing spread within the hub body for those autocross/track days is a large bonus and the fact that it is also lighter than a typical semi-floater axle/brake setup is great for rotational mass!

The other circle track kits on the market are excellent for their intended use.... "circle track" and NEVER meant to see horsepower even close to what you intend on using. The driveplates with these circle track kits are only 24 spline and will not hold up to high hp (GMR's are 35 spline). The hub bodies/wheel studs with the circle track kits will not hold up either to big horsepower as they are also designed for circle track and NEVER where intended for PT type high hp cars. If you look at the wheel stud "mounting ears" standing off the hub body of these circle track type hubs.....not any meat at all to take the force of high hp hitting the wheel studs from the drive plate......if the wheel stud does'nt snap first from the shear force (since circle track studs screw in from the back which leaves the drive plate to ride/thrust against the threads.....complete fail for high horsepower and is a shear point-GMR's design allows the drive plate to thrust on a shank area on the also stronger 17-4 stainless studs and will NOT shear), the wheel stud mounting ear on the hub body will most definately break........but most likely it will never get to this since the 24 spline drive plate splines will strip out first.

Attachment 32025


Some might say perhaps just have 35 spline drive plates made (which wont be cheap for one set anyhow) but even if this was done for the circle track kits, the next weak points as I mentioned above (hub body/studs) would most definately fail under your type hp. I have seen with my own two eyes these type failures and was why I was so impressed with the thought/engineering that was put into the GMR Full Floaters.

This is SO F'N' true!!

I've always said that the "slo blow fuse" in my Nomad is the tires out back.... can't break parts when you can't hook it up for shizzlesticks!!!