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now were talkin boys! thx for chiming in, again let me reiterate, we're only looking for the dyno number to say we got it really. Very likely only 10-15% of driving will be at max boost if any. This car IS being built for semi serious autocross and some higher speed road race events, and will have an aftermarket sub and rear, so I dont want to completely blow the autox capabilities with twins if thats the case. So whats the verdict on twins for that purpose? I assumed a blower would make more even power and be more suitable for autocross, but as mentioned, i also assumed twins are the easiest way to make huge 'streetable' power and I was hoping the people that know wouldnt say its super tough to set them up for autox. What about heat? what form of FI is the WORST WITH HEAT???
I considered another 'bell'. here's one of my ls's kb'd.... made 700@11psi in a 4750lb vehicle in denver http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/...xer/photo4.png |
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Past 20 years I've been playing with roots, turbo- singles and twins.
Now building twin screw engine with same goal as you. Only that my starting point is aluminium 572 Hemi custom build for boost and LC 4.2L Kenne Bell. KMS ECU, direct spark coils. European new RE85 fuel/ cont. 85% bioethanol. Should give easily 1000Hp. You can find my build thread in forced-section. Twins are good way to make big numbers, maeby most "easiest" to drive, but the heatload they make is big problem. Not if you dont have long WOT times, but use them in road races, bad idea, the hole car will be too hot to touch.:lol: Twin screw is more difficult to drive in the streets, if it is at high HP level, boost comes so fast and so hard. Nice looking engine by to way :thumbsup: |
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Good luck with the project! And like I said, not picking on you. :) |
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