Nice car im in the same situation did you decide on a set yet?

Wow
 

John

If your car needs a true frame extension for real HP and you have invested in the car needing it, do the DSE's, they are the best and yes you need to recess to get the right stability and quality. If not do one of the other solutions with are easy, and not near as strong, thus the easier implementation. I did DSE, shock at the cost to get them installed right but since I did the rest of the car with that quality and need for true stabilty and traction it was worth every penny

I've been building my plain Jane '68 on a lift. To keep from marring the underside of the car, I've got 1/2" plywood wood blocks between the lift points and the car. I recently had to drop it onto the suspension and while it was on the ground, one of the wood blocks (driver's side rear) was knocked off the lift. When I went to lift the car again, I got the car about a foot in the air and noticed that the driver's side rear of the car was about 1/2" above the lift point. Then I noticed the wood block was missing.

I was reasonably inpressed with the over all chassis stiffness with the DSE SFCs.

I've done them twice. However, with a dynamatted interior, they would be a total PITA.

I've also got a '67 RS/SS. It'll get Hotchkis SFCs simply because I don't want to cut the body up on a semi-collectible car.

Any one looked into Chris Alston's connectors? They are available either way and have a center support available as well. http://www.cachassisworks.com/c-531-...gm-f-body.aspx

Hotchkis vs DSE
 

Mike

If you still are looking for a Hotchikis set I will see if I can find my old set and send them to you for the cost of shipping. They are fine but not DSE and you seem to agree. Yes I get the hassle. I did mine prior to the undercoating and dynamate

Sincere thanks for the offer. Being the hoarder I am, I've already got the Hotchkis SFCs (as well as a rear sway bar, short block, heads, cam, intake, ecu, tranny, rear, driver's side seat, brakes, headers, exhaust, etc., for a car I won't build for a year or more.).

John,
I remember that you have the Speedtech front clip on your car. I don't know what the width of the rear of their rail is but the adapter that we sell to fit the stock clip is 3-3/4" on the inside. The adapter slides over the outside of the stock rail and welds in place. Once that's done, the connectors bolt in place. It's $339 for the connectors and adapters. A bolt-in center support and driveshaft loop are also available. Click HERE for details on the first gen kit.

Incidentally, the adapter fits first and second gen Camaros.
http://www.cachassisworks.com/images...5602-30_1_.jpg

"I was reasonably inpressed with the over all chassis stiffness with the DSE SFCs.

I've done them twice. However, with a dynamatted interior, they would be a total PITA."



WOW I am fully dynamatted and the pain was not bad. To be really rigged they need to be integral. If the HP or car does not need it and it is not critical to performance. Do not do it... that is ego not a smart spend. SPend what your cars needs to get the balance you look for in the build. I my case they were worth every penny. I also look at short and long term needs.

The "pain" installing DSE SFCs with a Dynamatted car is removing the Dynamat to get a clean surface on which to weld. You indicated in post 15 above that you installed the SFCs before Dynamatting the car.

As for what warrants the DSE SFCs - IMHO a stiffer chassis is always good no matter what the horsepower or intended use. As I indicated, I would do the DSEs in my '67 but it's an RS/SS car that I want to modify only in ways that can be relatively easily reversed - so no GMod, no 3 or 4 link rear, no cutting for a radio, etc., etc., etc.

With the exception of the SFCs, unless I can bolt it on, it's not going on. The '67 is sort of the antithesis of my '68.