Good points GW

I've found 65-75% balance and 180-200hz works for me on the 6061/6063 I've been playing with. Though 100hz is a lot nicer on the ears! :D

If you haven't already there is HUGE information covering just about everything TIG in "TIG 101" and "TIG 102" threads in the Shop & Equipment sections here. They seem to be an ever growing wealth of information with great tips from the guys on the forum that really know their stuff and lots of "what not to do" from the rest of us!

looks like you are making great progress! it is a very tricky metal to weld so when you do master it everything else will be easy some tips I can contribute is aluminum is very finicky to weld especially when welding thick to thin there are some tips to help you with this. first clean alum with a CLEAN STAINLESS BRUSH USED FOR NOTHING ELSE! wipe your filler rods too and do not let them lay around the welding bench to get contaminated with grinding debris. Take G.W.'S advice on balance . I often use a propane torch to pre heat the thicker alum. with a torch to get the molecules moving,keep most of your heat on the thicker piece the heat will automatically wick to the thinner piece.something like one second on your thicker piece 1/2 second on the thinner piece.you will come along in know time you are doing a great job already just keep practicing and you will be laying them down like a pro!:D

Thanks GregWeld for the answer/explanation. I definitely learned something that will be helpful moving on. I will have to check the material used for the legs to see if it is weldable.

Sieg- the day I can weld like those pics....I fear is never coming :shakehead:

Thanks again everyone for the responses. I read through the TIG 101/102 posts and definitely was taking notes there too!

I will posts a picture of the brake when I'm triumphant!

So I'm back in business. I switched to a #8 cup and adjusted balance and no more tungsten issues.

I still had some issue with joining the two metals of such different thickness, but that's just my lack of skill.

Here is where I'm at, it is not pretty but functional I think. Lots more practice needed but at least it is a step in the right direction.
http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/...psf497cded.jpg

Thanks again for the help guys.

Always tack the ends first. Then if you want to run a bead you can start "back" and run it to the tack. That keeps you from blowing out the ends when there's nowhere for the heat to go.

With aluminum it's very important to "finish" the weld with an extra dab of fill and back out of the throttle so as not to create a crater which WILL crack.

Glad to see you got it.

Big improvement!

Here is a video I thought really explained AC balance well. Balance was definitely my problem I was having and after seeing the video I really understand it better so I thought I would share.

I find myself always going back to a green tungsten for aluminum. I seem to get way better beads with it. Also found that you won't want to sharpen the electrode to a point for a/c, it needs to get a nice ball on end. Heat is critical when you are struggling with aluminum, you need to be hearing the bacon sound! If your having a hard time adding filler, you need heat. Play around with torch angle too.

Green balled tungsten is for old school NON inverter machines. Modern inverter machines need the proper pointed tungsten.