When answering a question -- I respond to EVERYONE that may be reading not just the question. It's just my style.

Understanding how something works - helps more than just saying "do this - don't do that".

No worries GW

A boost referenced regulator after the rails along with one at the rear of the tank would serve no purpose.

First off, say your base fuel pressure at the rear regulator was 43psi but it's not boost referenced.

Even if your regulator after the rails is boost referenced it could never achieve anything higher than the base fuel pressure of the first regulator as the first regulator bypasses everything above 43psi.

Now you could boost reference a rear mount regulator but it cannot compensate for any pressure drop across the lines. (so you need much larger lines and fittings than you would normally use for close to zero pressure drop in order to see a true 1-1 reference at the rails).

If you are worried about the rails heating up the fuel you could "T" the regulator off the feed line just before the rails.

Really though, I see no problem with just running it in the conventional manner with the regulator right after the rails or on the rails. Millions of oem vehicles made this way and I've built countless 1000+hp turbo cars like this with zero issues.

If your fuel is overheating with this configuration you likely will not fix it by regulator placement. It will still come down to too much re-circulation which you can fix by running a speed controller (as I see you have planned) on a single pump or not running multiple pumps at the same time continuously. (turn on second pump in a dual or triple pump system with a hobbs switch).

This is the "voice of experience" that I was looking for. I agree/suspect that the amount of recirculation allowed to occur in the system, is the major factor in whether or not excessive heating of fuel occurs. Thanks!

Jody did have a killer setup on the his Malibu. He compared his setup to something similar to a corvette. I believe the fuel pressure regulator was located near the fuel tank, too. I'll to a search to see if I can find the post.

Ok... here is my real world experience with this on supercharged FE's running A1000 pumps and their large body carb regulator, and on EFI small blocks running A1000 pumps and their large body EFI regulator.

With the the fuel pressure regulator at the rear of the vehicle you will develop a pulsing in the fuel pressure that will affect drivability. Think of throwing a pebble in a pond, the ripples get bigger as they travel. Unique Performance was very fond of putting their fuel pressure regulators in the rear of the vehicles and on the EFI vehicles you can watch the rail mounted gauge jump 20-30 psi while idling... try fighting that while tuning. On the carbureted blown FE's with the regulator mounted in the back we were fighting lean tip ins on hard accel.... we were getting just enough of a delay with the vacuum signal running from the engine to the rear of the vehicle and the boosted fuel pressure going from the rear of the vehicle up to the carb that we were seeing a delay in fuel pressure. Regulator moved up to the engine bay... problem solved. When I replumb the fuel systems on these vehicles I thermo-sleeve all of the lines because they do run up the tranny tunnel where they get alot of exhaust heat. On

I do recommend the use of their duty cycle controller to slow down the A1000 fuel pump operation for regular driving.

I always plumb my rails so that the regulator is after the engine.. In my head I would rather have full fuel flow available to the injectors rather than "regulated" fuel (I know it's all regulated ) to lessen any changes of starvation. I also plumb them parallel instead of series where the last injector would have a higher chance of starving.
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/v...psd7f99045.jpg

I've never had the fuel pressure vary even one psi at idle with a rear-mounted regulator. 20-25 psi is insane, and I would think there's something else going on. That's with my fuel pressure gauges coming directly off the rails.

If it were one car I would say, sure there could be something else factoring in but it is every single vehicle they plumbed that way. I'll look back and see if I've got video of an earlier car showing the fuel press gauge jumping... I haven't bothered documenting it for a while since it's every one of these cars. Regulator in the rear of the vehicle dumping right back to the tank.

Pic of the current vehicle I'm replumbing before....
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps065d6baa.jpg

And after... pre filter moved into the tank... Post filter after the pump.
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/v...psb88efc74.jpg

New fuel lines run rear to front. Yes.. I know the undercarriage on this one is rough... it's had a lot of hands on it before it got here.
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps45438c53.jpg

Regulator relocated to the engine bay.
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/v...psac04a877.jpg

The 70 Chevelle listed in the sig below as a feature vehicle was plumbed with a Ricks tank with the intank A1000 drop in unit with the built in pre-filter. It was powered through an Aeromotive Duty cycle controlller. Post filter right outside the tank. Regulator hidden up on the firewall behind the engine It put down 820rwhp with boost. -8 supply and return line.

http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps813ab9cf.jpg
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/v...psac81e980.jpg
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps482ea124.jpg

I'm not arguing with you, I'm sure if that's what you saw, that's what you saw. But I worked at a shop where dozens of vehicles were plumbed that way, from 400 rwhp to 800+ rwhp, and none had anything but dead steady pressure always (other than boost referenced deals under boost, which of course increased).