Welcome back :hello:
Always did like your car

X2. :thumbsup:

I was actually just wondering where you went a couple days ago - glad to see you back. I always liked seeing pics/videos of that car.

Isn't the community a lot more concerned with why that UCA ball joint plate broke than anything else ?

It doesn't look like the weld failed, but possibly the HAZ was the issue ? That's a pretty thick BJ plate, I've seen them sold by Coleman/Howe only 1/8" thick and that looks 3/16" or more. Did you replace it with the same style ? Can you give us a more close up picture of it ? Actually looking at it I think there must be a clevis there not a weld - that makes me even more curious why it broke. Any signs of fatigue from fretting ?

That could have been a very very serious crash. I'd think I'd be taking a good hard look at what happened there. Binding or mechanical issue ?
I couldn't figure out exactly but you were saying it came from Guldstrand ?
How long had it been on the car ?
there is some rust but it looks minor.

Glad to have you back Dane. And that your pain situation is much improved.

:lol:

My guess: metal fatigue due to lack of articulation range as installed. But I'd like to know for sure.

No HAZ in that section, I believe its a 7/16" hole.

There was a discussion about it after it happened and I believe Dickie fixed it no problem. And put the ball joint in the right spot. Marcus pointed out that the arms were installed upside down.

Marcus @ SC&C
" Hi Rogue, bummer about your UCA. I see a number if issues that you may want to attend to before you repair and drive the car again. First off the breakage was caused by vertical binding, flexing the ball joint plate until it fatigued and snapped off. This is the mode of failure that produces those results in destructive testing. The arm was probably contacting the frame in droop long before it reached full travel. There is a small witness mark in photo 1. There are a couple causes for this.
*First off, the arms are installed UPSIDE DOWN*.
The vertically offset pivots that normally add a lot of droop clearance are now dramatically restricting it. Flip the cross shafts over to fix this. Second, we only sell these A arms for configurations using taller ball joints or tall spindles, this also adds more clearance in droop and it zeros out the mounting angle of the ball joints at ride height. It appears you are using stock height ball joints and spindles. There`s no geometry correction like that so it would be a big improvement to upgrade.
To add insult to injury you`re running the Guldstrand mod, which yields another huge reduction in droop travel! The car must have hardly any droop travel at all.
Rogue, I know you didn`t buy the arms from us because they`re in a configuration we don`t sell but please give me a call and I`ll be happy to talk you through the application and work with you and SPC to get the proper setup on your car. I promise you that when they`re configured and installed properly they are extremely durable and work fantastic. "

Welcome back Dane. Glad to hear you are doing better.
This pic is awesome. LOL @ the Grand Theft Auto billboard in the background. Very cool.
Sorry about hear about the 2013 EVO. I was thinking about trading in the truck for a '14 EVO MR at one point, but after reading some of the threads online on the forums and now this,...I'll pass. They seem to all have trouble with the ACD pump as well, which, if goes after warranty is BIG BUCKS. I'll pass. :badidea:

Okay good to know the info on the UCA. Always need to take these failings seriously.

Welcome back! I too was just recently wondering where you'd gone. Always loved reading your snappy posts. hahaha