Key words right there........sadly it applies to staining as well. Staining can go sideways too depending on slab moisture content, hydro-static pressure, and the sealer used.

When we built our new shop that I worked for many years ago, we had the floor epoxied. The contracter did it and they used a product from Shewin Williams.

Couple of things, first this was a collision shop and the floor was new as in just poured. They let it sit for a month or two if I remember correctly. After the the epoxy was applied it had to sit for something like a week to dry properly.

About a month later we had one of the new frame racks brought in and when they unloaded it it hit the floor hard and made a sound like it was just digging up the epoxy. After it was in place we looked and nothing it was perfect just a little maring but that's it!

This was back in 1994, as of a few weeks ago when I stop by to say hi there is still NOT a singal spot that has chipped or peeled up NOTHING NOTTA!!!

I do not remember what product it was but if you contact your local Shewin commercial store and ask them? Just my .02

Boy are you a downer.....



HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

http://allgaragefloors.com/metallic-garage-floor-epoxy/

:bitchslap:

Come over and look at my neighbors stained slab.......just being real.

It was done by a local who's been in the business over 30 years, was new construction, 3 redo's and it still looks crappy.

The other neighbor has a grey epoxy coating applied after 7-8 years, looked great for 2 months! But now the first impression is it needs to be mopped and touched up.

Just being real, I'm not as much of a downer as having to live with a surface that disappoints you every time you turn on the lights in the shop. :D

I coated mine with a product I bought at a local home improvement warehouse, when I built my shop 14 years ago, and it started peeling after hard use. Today you can't even tell that I ever applied the product. Once the peeling started, it all eventually came up.
But there is something to be said about a coating, simply in the way it brightens up the shop. I've been in some high end race shops, and your first thought is always how bright the actual work area around the cars is. Being an electrician, I naturally check out overhead lighting, but they really never go overboard with lighting. It's about light reflection, and how well you use the area around you to help with lighting. You'll always see the walls painted a bright color, as well as a nicely coated floor. I'm not trying to compare our home shops to a cup shop here, just talking about how a nicely done area improves overall brightness with average lighting.
Next time your in your local home improvement warehouse, check out the polished concrete floors. Even something as simple as this creates a gloss that greatly improves lighting everywhere. I'm considering this route with my next shop build.

As you already know stay away from DIY epoxy kits.

Here's some help from a lot of research I've done through experience and the forum on garagejournal.com

Option 1: Tile. This is how I'm planning on going with my 40x30 shop. A good ceramic or porcelain tile in large sizes with small joints. Use epoxy grout to help fight the oil and grease.

Pros: Looks good, extremely durable against impacts, welding, etc. Easy clean. If a tile is ever damaged you can replace a single tile.
Cons: Can be slick depending on the texture tile you get. Proper mortar bed and instillation is critical to get no air pockets under the tiles.


Option 2: Pro installed 100% epoxy solids epoxy. You have to get the good stuff and you have to get it pro-installed with warranty.

Pros: Looks good, easy clean up, impact resistant.
Cons: Will not hold up to welding and grinding. Heat will cause damage. Once there is damage it's basically done and extremely hard to repair without grinding up and starting over.


Option 3: Plastic flooring (Racedeck, ect).

Pros: Quick install, looks good, easily replace a damaged piece.
Cons: Cleaning is a pain. You'll always have debris under the tiles and dust that has fallen through. It won't hold up well to welding and grinding as it will damage like epoxy.


Option 4: Stain.

Pros: Looks good, it's basically like your normal unfinished concrete but looks a little better.
Cons: Usually has to be done with a fresh slab. Old stains and damage make it a challenge to stain over.


Option 5: Concrete unfinished.

Pros: Cheap, doesn't stress you out when you damage or spill something on it because it's just the shop floor.
Cons: ugly


Good luck with your project and please post finished pictures with whatever you decide.

Get a guy with a diamond polisher and polish the bare concrete.

If you are going to coat it go with a pro with a warranty. They use the good stuff. Kelly Moore and Sherman williams is good stuff. In the long run it will be cost effective.

We did our shop for $4500 and they took 2 days, it was dry in 4 days. 78 degree high humidity helped that.

Garage Forums has a flooring section with a huge amount of information. Race Deck seems to be the best for a used-hard shop, but is very expensive. Epoxy seems to matter most on the condition of the concrete, tons of prep and a quality product go a long way.