Thanks for the jack info too, Vince.

I bought Lokar's brake cables a while ago but didn't install them since I was afraid the SFC's and or suspension choice would cause problems with any routing decision I made at the time. I also did not want to have the cables just cut across the underside of the car like factory did. So I'm looking at routing them in a clean manner. I've got some ideas. Luckily, I can go ahead and weld the connectors in completely and not cause any problems.

What I am curious about is, does anyone have any recommendations, based on experience, for routing the cables? For instance, even though the cable can bend all over the place since it's inside the housing/sheath, should I try to keep it as straight and direct to the brakes as possible? What about tightest bend radius? With the ideas I have swimming around in my head, the passenger side is going to be a pain compared to the driver's side. The driver's side is virtually a straight shot from pedal to brake. I'd like to keep the foot pedal brake I believe. Helps keep the console area clean.

Thanks

On my Duster the passenger side emergency brake cable is long enough to reach the connection point of the driver side. If you did something similar a small dual to single joint could be used.

Take a look at DSE second gen projects for some good ideas on brake cables

That's definitely part of the plan, Scott. They give me a lot of inspiration.

Thanks

Hell yea! yay for progress!!!!!!!!!

I've had trouble getting my e-brake setup to work properly and steadily ever since I put my rear discs on. I'm going to finally fix it right here shortly.

I had mine working and then had to rotate my brake backing plates 180 degrees and that put the e-brake cable pointing to the rear instead of the front which in turn made my passenger side cable too short. After I ponied up another $60 to get a new one, it still took every inch of the housing to route it to the mounting plate that holds the other end of the housing. Finally got it all set and adjusted then the block I used to attach the lokar set to the stock cable started hanging up on a trans cross member bolt head.

I've figured out a way to move the plate that holds the cable adjusters on the pedal end so it won't get hung up anymore, just have to weld it onto my trans cross member.

What I do know is, my cables come out of my backing plates pointed to the rear, take a 180 and go up over the axles and head towards the front and they still work great...well as long as they don't get hung up on anything anyway.

Good work on the rest of the project, I know cutting into the floors was a big deal but I bet it ends up being worth it. Keep on posting pics of your progress.

Don't forget that the jack MOVES with the car going up (or down) and needs to have ROOM to move without falling off your cribs...

Just the thought of someone using it that way without stops makes my eye twitch.

OK, no need for anyone else to pile on.

The jack doesn't move with my system of jack platforms, cribs, etc. which I feel is a safer way to raise cars high and use cribs. I do it constantly on lots of cars.

I'll write a detailed explanation later when I have more time.