Originally Posted by dhutton (Post 563579)

Hi Rick. From the SPI website:

Self-etching epoxy primer doesn't require the use of an acid-etch primer

Don

Originally Posted by Rick D (Post 563613)

Don it's just the wording they have chosen to use although I couldn't find that wording here is what I found on their web site. Not trying to pick or hate just trying let anyone reading know the difference between the different products and how they work.:thumbsup:



Uses for SPI Epoxy:
SPI Epoxy is one of the finest available and it’s great for use on any type of metal or aluminum if properly sanded and cleaned. This epoxy eliminates the need for an acid- etch primer. Use this epoxy on bare fiberglass or SMC before applying body fillers or 2K primers for best long-term results.

Originally Posted by dhutton (Post 563656)

OK, I am going to ask Barry, the owner of SPI. Will let you know what he says. :D I think you are confusing self-etch with acid-etch. They are different as near as I can tell but I am far from an expert.

Here is the link: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...y%20Primer.htm

Don

Originally Posted by Rick D (Post 563659)

Ok Don :thumbsup:

Originally Posted by Rick D (Post 563475)

Not sure on the amercoat 370 but as for Imron if your building a truck go for it and I mean a semi. Lol

Imron is very old technology and is more for the fleet industry.

What I will say is start with a paint system and use that system from start to finish!!! PPG, Axulta (the new name for DuPont) BASF, or "SIKKENS" The paint company's build the products to work together so trust them they know how to make their products work with each other. I see it all the time, your base coat didn't stick to my cheap clear? Really because my base coat is still on the car but "your" clear is not??

I would recommend Sikkens but any of the top company's will give you great results!! :trophy-1302: :thumbsup:

Originally Posted by 66fury (Post 564768)

fyi, dont put raptor liner on top of acid primer,it will fail,ask me how i know.raptor works best on top of epoxy,i prefer ppg products, and it can be done ,wet on wet.sikkens is a great product,but if you stray from their procedures and directions,it will cost you,alot.i am a 30 yr painter and have used practically everything and find sikkens a bit touchy even for a pro and almost double the cost.like mentioned,i prefer ppg products from a price point and its simple to use and the results are great.never cheap out on paint and get the best you can afford for the results you want. just my 2 cents.