Lateral-g Forums - hard line to an fittings

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Quote:

Originally Posted by OBeer-WAN-Kenobi (Post 565912)

I think something like this would also work:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5182k457/=taj967

I was going to use them since you don't need to flare anything but decided just to use PTFE lined braided hose instead of hard line.

These are rated for 2,100 PSI so they should be pretty secure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dhutton (Post 565932)

I have used them on 3/8 stainless and I can tell you from experience that the ferrule is on there to stay. At least they hold a whole lot better than those Russell AN to GM fuel rail adaptors...

As I said not the most elegant solution but flaring 1/2 inch stainless is something that I can't image being all that easy to do depending on the flaring tool you have.

Your fittings were $30 each if I read it correctly. That gives me a little heartburn... :lol:

Don

Yeah, those yorlok/swagelok fittings are expensive but they make some for up to 10,000 psi applications. We use them on a "boom" tester. A tester used to test valves beyond their rating for safety factors. Sometimes up to 10,000 psi, and they don't leak. The one I linked was only for 2100 psi though. "Only" haha. Probably overkill, but really you only probably need two of them.

The horse shoe style Russel to GM fuel connections are fine I think. It's the snap lock ones that are an accident waiting to happen.

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc...injected.shtml

The first ones in the above link (push on) are the junk. The second ones (threaded cap) are OK.

I agree about the flaring in my experience anyway. You have to buy an expensive flaring tool to make things come out right. The cheap tools like the one I have suck. I can't make a flare seal for my life with mine.

P.S. I know what you mean about the heartburn. I junkyard dive or find the cheapest stuff that will work whenever I can. Fuel stuff though, I ponied up the cash for what I needed. I'm pretty sure my plumbing cost more than my tanks inc fuel tank.

Thanks for the input, if I flared it I would take it to a machine shop to do so, hardly worth the $$to get a flare tool to flare two ends.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OBeer-WAN-Kenobi (Post 565933)

Yeah, those yorlok/swagelok fittings are expensive but they make some for up to 10,000 psi applications. We use them on a "boom" tester. A tester used to test valves beyond their rating for safety factors. Sometimes up to 10,000 psi, and they don't leak. The one I linked was only for 2100 psi though. "Only" haha. Probably overkill, but really you only probably need two of them.

The horse shoe style Russel to GM fuel connections are fine I think. It's the snap lock ones that are an accident waiting to happen.

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc...injected.shtml

The first ones in the above link (push on) are the junk. The second ones (threaded cap) are OK.

I agree about the flaring in my experience anyway. You have to buy an expensive flaring tool to make things come out right. The cheap tools like the one I have suck. I can't make a flare seal for my life with mine.

P.S. I know what you mean about the heartburn. I junkyard dive or find the cheapest stuff that will work whenever I can. Fuel stuff though, I ponied up the cash for what I needed. I'm pretty sure my plumbing cost more than my tanks inc fuel tank.

You're in need of some "FLARE SAVERS" --- copper "gaskets" that go between the male and female and they're softer so mate better.

Yes -- the "proper" 37* flaring tools are expense... I think the tapered roller bearing version I have was like $450... The flare savers are FAR less....LOL

http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com...agename=flrsav

How about a -8AN fitting to 1/2"-20 which is on the end of SS fuel line?
Thanks