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Wasn't the true floater designed to overcome the stesses placed on single bearings, especially when added load due to cornering? That and problems with the flange ends typically leaking? So the floater moves weight inward and off the very ends of the rearend, while also utilizing duel tapered bearings. So what due they lack for the street car/daily driver? Sorry for all the questions, as i said I don't know a lot about this and have just been trying to read as much as possible to make sure I make the right choice the first time in order to alleviate any problems in the future. thanks |
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All of these could be viable options for me, and I'm just trying to get as much info as possible. I was hopeful it would be from people who have some real world experience with different setups, such as you. I just hadn't every seen any mention of anyone using Baer's floater setup, even though it seems its been out for some time? Appreciate yours and everyone else's input to hopefully help guide me in the "right" direction! |
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A parking brake is not intended for anything but being applied once the car is parked and was not designed to be applied at speed or problems will most likely occur, whereas an actual e-brake can be used at speed in an "emergency" hence the name e-brake. Items like "spot calipers", "line locks", "in-line ball valves", etc. that are sometimes used on "traditional" full floaters to overcome their street ability shortfall, will only work after the car is at a complete stop, and are mostly fine for the "letting the car warm up stuff" at the track, but would you trust your car on a sloped road with these set-ups, not to mention for any length of time? Will your car be where you left it when you get back? Personally I would not trust the above mentioned in a car that is daily driven and that usually finds itself in scenarios/locations that require a proven set-up that was actually designed/rated to hold your car in the same location it was originally parked... I know some people may disagree because perhaps they have one of these full floaters outfitted with one of these devices, but for those people,,, I bet if I asked you to take your 100+ thousand dollar car and park it on a steep incline road for 24hrs that you would most likely think twice as these devices are not rated/intended for this and would be an uncertain outcome.... Now with that said there ARE "parking brakes" that will hold on steep incline/declines for periods of time, these types would be like the ones offered in most all Wilwood, Baer, etc. big brake kits. But these are actual brake in drum set-ups similar (but not the same) to the C5/6 e-brake. With the exception of Baer's full floater, and mine, there are no other floaters that actually incorporate a legit parking/e-brake. (I did not forget the Wilwood offering for the Mod-lite hub, but this .81" rotor would see its death most likely after one track day with aggressive driving so I am not counting). I have installed on traditional full floaters what I would consider some of the best spot calipers available (Ipsco), and are still questionable in daily driven scenarios IMO. I have also ran many line locks in my day and would rather not trust my car to it based on a daily driver that finds itself in many scenarios that require a full proof parking-brake/e-brake... track in the pits,,, yes,,,, inclined/declined roads in the real world,,, NO. A floater actually carries the weight of the car out at the hub, and no longer burdens the axle/bearing/seal from torsional flex as a semi-floater does. It is not that you cannot run a "traditional" style floater on the street because many do. When I referred to a traditional full floater as not being street friendly it was in comparison to my set-up that requires virtually no maintenance and incorporates an e-brake which makes this a very user/street friendly set-up in comparison to most all traditional floaters. So to recap, IMO if the floater (any ones floater), does not utilize an actual in drum parking brake or even better, an actual e-brake, then I would not consider it a street driven/daily driver set-up that you can fully trust. Jay |
I concur with Jay on the parking brake. The line lock is a track car trick to eliminate the parking brake weight & friction.
If you want to have a parking brake and run Baer brakes ... I think you can achieve that with eithers Jays C6 end floater or the Baer floater. That at least narrows it down for you. Best wishes. |
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Does anyone have any experience or thoughts on The GMR parking brake?
http://thegmr.com/?page_id=1706 This may offer additional options I'm guessing? Like I said, I'm really looking to try and learn as much as possible before spending money and worrying about whether I made the right choice? |
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As far as maintenance goes.... I use the seals-it inner seals so my bearings are greased just like the old school front wheel bearings that were commonplace on cars for decades. I simply repack them when I replace worn out rotors... the grease and bearings look fine every time. |
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Not just cuz its mine, but if a guy told you he had a set-up that reaped the benefits of a traditional full floater, required basically zero maintenance, and incorporated an actual Emergency Brake (not park brake), and you could run the brake manufacture of your choice,,,, wouldn't this pretty much fit the bill? What more could you want? Just ask, maybe it does it too :) Jay |
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Snout - Hub (steel or aluminum? - Bearings/Races - Drive Plate (I assume you run steel) - Studs - Caliper Brackets/gussets) - Also if you wouldn't mind? Rotor Adaptor (steel or Aluminum?) - Rotor 13"x1.25" - Jay |
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