Lateral-g Forums - Need Fabrication Consultant - 71 Javelin Road Race/Street Legal Project

Lateral-g Forums (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/index.php)

- Open Discussion (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=14)

- - Need Fabrication Consultant - 71 Javelin Road Race/Street Legal Project (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49729)

Here are the significant items on the punch list:

-Break in engine on test stand. I've got this.

-Install engine and transmission. No problem here.

-Install coil over shocks. Need to order these; someone makes these for the Javelin. If they're still in production, that's not an issue.

-Install steering column, secure to firewall. Figure I'll go with an aftermarket piece.

-Weld in a dash bar on the cage. I've got a Miller 211 MIG, but limited experience.

-Install brake and clutch pedals. Intend to hang these from the dash bar.

-Fabricate a dash. Suppose I could always install a factory dash and install my gauges in it, but would much prefer to go with something fabricated that doesn't look cobbled together.

-Order new leaf springs. The custom composite ones on the car now have too much arch; lowering blocks won't get it low enough.

-Order new rear wheels (17x9; running 245/40/17 tires); ones on the car don't have enough backspace.

-Scrape undercoating off underside of the car and paint.

-Determine whether or not I need to weld in subframe connectors.

-Bodywork and paint. I'll handle this; car is very solid, but front fenders will need some hammer and dolly work from older repairs.

-Figure out grille/nose. Factory grille is a very expensive, very large plastic POS. NOS ones go for well over $1,000. I think I want to do something custom that has the same look.

-Fab up new valve covers or add breathers to mine.

-Figure out clutch - manual or hydraulic actuation?

-Wiring.

-Plumbing.

-Brake cooling.

-Front and rear tow eyes.

And a few thousand little things...

Thanks,

Scott

Quote:

Originally Posted by bulletpruf (Post 600367)

you meant this summer right? Triage.....do the things you need done now and hope you have a facility to work in over in IT.

-Fab up new valve covers or add breathers to mine. Fab takes time, money and skill. Take the easy route. Moroso makes bolt in AN fittings.

-Break in engine on test stand. I've got this. Git er done

-Install engine and transmission. No problem here. Git er done

-Install coil over shocks. Need to order these; someone makes these for the Javelin. If they're still in production, that's not an issue. for the front? Ridetechs

-Install steering column, secure to firewall. Figure I'll go with an aftermarket piece. After market column but use the factory firewall plate.

-Weld in a dash bar on the cage. I've got a Miller 211 MIG, but limited experience. dash bar, practice your fish mouths and weld up scrap.

-Install brake and clutch pedals. Intend to hang these from the dash bar. Git er done

-Fabricate a dash. Suppose I could always install a factory dash and install my gauges in it, but would much prefer to go with something fabricated that doesn't look cobbled together. not sure of your skill set

-Order new leaf springs. The custom composite ones on the car now have too much arch; lowering blocks won't get it low enough. Git er done

-Order new rear wheels (17x9; running 245/40/17 tires); ones on the car don't have enough backspace. Git er done

-Scrape undercoating off underside of the car and paint. This can wait, rule of thumb, unless you are doing a full on show car just remove the stuff thats falling off or hiding rust. If its hard to take off leaving it on.

-Determine whether or not I need to weld in subframe connectors. Do it, weld em in.

-Figure out grille/nose. Factory grille is a very expensive, very large plastic POS. NOS ones go for well over $1,000. I think I want to do something custom that has the same look. Fix up the original nose and make a grille out of steel mesh or grating?

-Bodywork and paint. I'll handle this; car is very solid, but front fenders will need some hammer and dolly work from older repairs. later

-Figure out clutch - manual or hydraulic actuation? What trans and bellhousing?

-Wiring. How bad is the stock harness? clean up and re loom?

-Plumbing. How bad?

-Brake cooling. later

-Front and rear tow eyes. later

RESPONSES IN ALL CAPS. SORRY FOR "YELLING."

you meant this summer right? Triage.....do the things you need done now and hope you have a facility to work in over in IT. WILL BE A FEW MONTHS. I'M STILL IN KOREA. HEADED TO ITALY IN JUNE. CAR WILL FOLLOW IN JULY OR AUGUST. I'LL HAVE A GARAGE AT HOME IN ITALY, WELL-STOCKED WITH HAND AND POWER TOOLS. WILL ALSO HAVE ACCESS TO A SHOP ON BASE WITH LIFTS.

-Fab up new valve covers or add breathers to mine. Fab takes time, money and skill. Take the easy route. Moroso makes bolt in AN fittings. OK.

-Break in engine on test stand. I've got this. Git er done

-Install engine and transmission. No problem here. Git er done

-Install coil over shocks. Need to order these; someone makes these for the Javelin. If they're still in production, that's not an issue. for the front? Ridetechs YES, FOR THE FRONT. DON'T SEE THAT RIDETECH MAKES ANY FOR AMC. THINK ONLY OPTIONS ARE WSC OR FREAKRIDE.

-Install steering column, secure to firewall. Figure I'll go with an aftermarket piece. After market column but use the factory firewall plate.

-Weld in a dash bar on the cage. I've got a Miller 211 MIG, but limited experience. dash bar, practice your fish mouths and weld up scrap.

-Install brake and clutch pedals. Intend to hang these from the dash bar. Git er done

-Fabricate a dash. Suppose I could always install a factory dash and install my gauges in it, but would much prefer to go with something fabricated that doesn't look cobbled together. not sure of your skill set I CAN HANDLE THIS WITH SOME GUIDANCE.

-Order new leaf springs. The custom composite ones on the car now have too much arch; lowering blocks won't get it low enough. Git er done

-Order new rear wheels (17x9; running 245/40/17 tires); ones on the car don't have enough backspace. Git er done

-Scrape undercoating off underside of the car and paint. This can wait, rule of thumb, unless you are doing a full on show car just remove the stuff thats falling off or hiding rust. If its hard to take off leaving it on.

-Determine whether or not I need to weld in subframe connectors. Do it, weld em in. OK WASN'T SURE WHETHER OR NOT I NEEDED THESE SINCE I HAVE A FULL CAGE.

-Figure out grille/nose. Factory grille is a very expensive, very large plastic POS. NOS ones go for well over $1,000. I think I want to do something custom that has the same look. Fix up the original nose and make a grille out of steel mesh or grating? OK.

-Bodywork and paint. I'll handle this; car is very solid, but front fenders will need some hammer and dolly work from older repairs. later ALREADY STRIPPED TO BARE METAL (COATED TO KEEP FROM RUSTING) AND IN NEED OF A FAIR AMOUNT OF WORK TO GET THEM STRAIGHT. I CAN HANDLE THIS BUT WILL PUT IT LOW ON THE PRIORITY LIST.

-Figure out clutch - manual or hydraulic actuation? What trans and bellhousing? AMC CLOSE RATIO T10 4 SP; LAKEWOOD BLOWPROOF STEEL BELLHOUSING. ANY MORE THOUGHTS HERE?

-Wiring. How bad is the stock harness? clean up and re loom? A BIT MANGLED, BUT COULD USE IT. THINK I WOULD PREFER TO GO WITH A CUSTOM DESIGNED HARNESS SINCE I DON'T EXPECT TO BE USING MUCH IF ANY OF THE FACTORY POWER ACCESSORIES BESIDES THE LIGHTS.

-Plumbing. How bad? JUST BRAKES; CAN PROBABLY USE THE REAR BRAKE LINES, BUT WILL NEED NEW HARD AND/OR BRAIDED LINES IN THE FRONT.

-Brake cooling. later

-Front and rear tow eyes. later

THANKS FOR THE DETAILED RESPONSE.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bulletpruf (Post 600428)

THANKS FOR THE DETAILED RESPONSE.

Good detail up front gets good advice........well done.

Vince is good..........real good, and one of the more generous and helpful individuals I know. :thumbsup:

I don't know if you speak fluent Italian but, there should be plenty of specialty fabricators in Pasta Land who might be able to help you out. I know a guy from the Corvette Forum......Aldo, he has a 1968 Corvette with an L-88 motor he drives in Italy. You can PM or Email me and I can try to get you 2 guys together. The big factor ai would think is what kind of gauges you would want.....individual gauges or an integrated Racetech or Stack type of information center. This should be a decision made before dash design is implemented.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Solid LT1 (Post 600434)

I don't speak much Italian yet, but have studied French, Spanish, and Latin, so it should be fairly easy to pick up.

Good point on the gauges.

Sent you a pm.

Thanks

Scott

I did an international fireworks competition in Seoul - set up on barges in the Han river..... The Kimchee isn't bad -- it was the "roasted snails" and the long drop toilets that were hard to get used to.... LOL

Quote:

Originally Posted by bulletpruf (Post 600327)

Fellas -

I'm in need of some help with a stalled project - a 71 Javelin street/road race project. It's been sitting in storage for the past 2 years; I'm active duty Army and have been stationed in Korea. Moving to Italy (Naples) this summer; will be there for 2-3 years. Plan to bring the car with me; have an extensive tool collection and will have a place to work on it, but this is my first road race car build and I'm in need of advice and guidance with piecing it all together.

I don't have a license for wheel to wheel racing and I'm not ready for it yet, but thought I would build something that would be legal (or close to it) for NASA American Iron. Also want it to be street legal, but I really do not need any creature comforts - don't need carpet, A/C, heater, radio, or anything like that.

Here's where I am:

Started off with a rust free low mile California 1971 Javelin.

Full cage by Piper Motorsports in Sterling, VA.

Added a NASCAR type full floater 9" with a TrueTrac diff and 1* negative camber from Speedway Engineering. It sits on custom fiberglass leaf springs.

Front suspension is mostly stock, but plan to run coil overs with boxed LCA's, have stock UCA's now but will probably custom adjustable UCA's.

I built a pump gas friendly 401 with a wet sump road race pan, custom flat tappet cam, aluminum heads - close to 500 hp.

Transmission is a T10 close ratio 4 sp. Lakewood bell housing. Dual disc clutch.

Wilwoods front (13") and rear (11.75").

I'm looking for help nailing down a general plan on what to attack in what order. Then I'll need some fabrication advice on how to make that happen. Right now, I really don't need something that's optimized. I'm looking for simplicity and function. I can upgrade at a later date.

Any thoughts or recommendations?

Thanks!

Scott

Hello Scott,

Someone here has built an AI Javelin. I don't think he has posted much lately, but you could contact him through his blog: http://asifnyc.com

It will be good to see another AI Javelin on the track & on the street.

Regards

CurtiSS 69

Hey Scott,

couple of comments... first, NAPLES???!! you're supposed to be moving to CALI! what's the hold up??? :) although it will be amazing if you finish the Javelin and do a track day at Monza!

second, don't know if you ever saw the video I made of the dash I built for my car? it's just a few pieces of aluminum rivited together. weighs nothing and gets the job done. don't know if you're looking for a less home brew style?

http://asifnyc.com/wp/wp-content/upl...ccel_pedal.jpg

Like I told the guys running the Pontiac motored Trans Ams and AMC Javelins one year at the Monterey Historics, I have nothing but the greatest respect for the guys running the "othermobiles" Camaros and Mustangs are a "piece of cake" compared to running one of these (although a $3K timing cover to run Holley Domiantor IR carbs on a 69 Boss isn't any cakewalk...)

Nice project, I always loved the fender lines on those AMC 2nd gens...right out of the T/A 'cheaters handbook"