torgue,

I think you are correct. Everything I am reading shows that filtration is the key. I have been running the stock type Wix filter on mine. I finally looked it up a couple of months ago, and it is a 7 micron rating. Going to the _ _ _ type filter, only using Wix again. (Sorry, I work for Komatsu, can't use that three letter word.)
I may add the Kennedy Extra filter under the battery soon. Time will tell on getting this thing done.

Yup, LB7 is in a world of its own. Nothing is easy to do on it plus it's a poor design. There is no water separator on them. When I did mine the first time, there was so much corrosion and rust in the tips of the injectors, 3 out of 8 were almost 100% clogged. I did a balance test on it last weekend and found 1 & 8 bad again. If they were in the same bank I would just change one side. Not my luck. So I'll most likely peel out another $2000 and do all 8 again. Truck has 167,000 on it and going on the 3rd set of injectors.

Tom,
Have you run the cleaner through yours yet? That did help mine a little. Google the GM cleaner. I ordered from Amazon and it was about $10 cheaper than the dealer. It takes about an hour and a half to process. It bought a couple of mine back to tolerance.

I've never tried that but I'm willing to give anything a shot to not have to do that job again. I do run fuel treatment in it though.

I run 1/2oz of 2 cycle oil per gallon to improve fuel lubricity in my LBZ. I have been running this in all my diesel engines since the 80's and have never had to replace an injection pump or injector in any of my trucks or tractors.

The main thing that I saw when changing them when I used to work for the dealer, was looking down into the injector you would see crap where the line screwed in. The metal lines would have rust at the ends indicating corrosion. I would change the lines as well. If there is any corrosion, it will just go into the new injectors. The other thing is the "cups" that the injectors go into seal the coolant passage, so when you pull the injectors (do you have the tool?) you run the risk of loosening them up. They seal with 2 o rings and then I would use red loctite at the tip where it would go into the head. Unfortunately injector failure is a problem with them. I had one truck go through them about every 100k. Also flat rate warranty time was 8 hours for us.... I could do it, but it sucked. Never got to do one on straight time, but 12-13 hours is about right.
Have fun. they are not bad to do, just on your ribs a long time.

So, I ran the compression test and had one low cylinder. It was 380 and the rest were 400-410. I may go back and run that one cylinder again today. I'm pretty sure I didn't have the adapter tight in the hole, and it may have bled off some.
I did get the Fuel pressure regulator installed and about ready to put fluids back in it and start her up to see if that solved any issues. If you have ever been asked to install one of those, OMG:confused59: that thing is down in a hole and 3 little torx bolts holding them in. I was ready to kill some engineers. HAHA

Man. Sounds more of a hassle than my buddies 6.0 powerstroke.

I'll stick to my little inline 6. I change the oil and shine the big C on the valve cover. :stirthepot:

Hmm, keep polishing that "C", I'm sure there are bragging rights that come with that thing. I still love my Dmax.

So I got the truck back together and drove it to work today. The loping has stopped, thank goodness. I still have a little haze in the exhaust, and will probably need injectors. I did install a better filter for the fuel. I hope that helps in keeping better, cleaner fuel to them.

Get the tool to remove the injectors, makes it a whole lot easier, dont forget to replace the copper washers on the return lines too. Ull need a 5mm allen head for the valve cover bolts, the rear bottom 2 on the driver are the hard ones to get to. Havent done an lb7 in a few years, i used to sit in the engine bay and knock em out in a day. Now all i get is blown up injection pumps on lml, and the demon def fluid issues.