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Interesting idea.
Carl, do you know if it is ok to put a connector on the dcc temp lead? I want to put a weatherpack on it so i don't have to pull the sensor out of the rad fins. |
That's what was done on mine since screwing in the modified sensor would be tough. Try to put the connector on such that it can be supported by zip ties, clamp, etc. The weight should not be supported by the fit of the sensor.
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Thanks for the info!
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Thanks for all of the replies guys, I picked up the controller from entropy radiators. It's not PWM in the version I am using, but so far I am happy with it. I am about 2/3 of the way done installing it. I'll post back in here once I get some miles on the car with it working.
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I made a video a while back showing how it works with the Dominator ECU, but it would be the same for the HP. The biggest advantage is that there is no big surge when the fan kicks on and it only runs as fast as it needs to to keep the engine cool. I rarely see more than 50% speed. Andrew |
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The holley ecu's are pretty nice pieces when it comes to doing custom things such as this. I was over it and wanted to move on, to the next thing on the list and that is why I went with the relay setup. It was a simple solution. Thanks for the reply and the video. I will keep it in mind on the next project. :thumbsup: |
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https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=40215 is that the C6 fan controller will handle dual 11" fans without issues. I am using a C6 fan. It is a cheap Dorman fan that was on super sale on Amazon for 80 bucks and it came with the proper connector to mate with the C6 controller. The C6 fan is rated at 400 watts, which works out to about a 31 amp draw at 13 volts. I used a Metripack 480 (32 amp) series 3 cavity connector on the other side to provide power and PWM- signal to the controller. Andrew |
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There are a lot of details in my build thread: http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...es-videos.html The controller has 5 wires. Positive and negative that go to the fan, the positive and negative from the vehicle power, and the PWM- signal wire. For power going into the controller I have the negative coming directly from the battery and the positive also from the battery but going through a 40 amp circuit breaker connected through the 3 cavity metripack 480 connector. http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/473.jpg The PWM- signal wire goes from the 558-400 sub harness that connects to the Holley main harness. That wire also goes into the 3 cavity metripack 480 connector. All power wires are 10 gauge, while the signal wire is only 20 gauge. The 558-400 harness comes with 20 feet for each lead so there is plenty to run just about anywhere. Few more pics... http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/478.jpg http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/479.jpg Andrew |
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