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The 24x is for 3 bolt and limits cam selection.
LS3 design is 58x reluctor so going 24x is a step backwards. Dyno tuned on an engine stand and then dropped onto you car with a different intake and exhaust should have a retune. With a MAF over SD it is not as important. |
Hi Tom, thanks for providing some input. Hopefully i can answer some questions and also make note of questions I should ask Kyle at Thompson.
As I mentioned above, if I decide to go with DBW, it will come with a custom built harness but I don't know for sure who they use. If I remember correctly it would utilize a GM E38 PCM with a 58x reluctor. The drive by cable option would utilize the 24x Warren PCM and set up with a cable operated TB. The harness would also be custom made for this application. As for the information listed in the link, I believe this was the options for the BDW setup using MAF and IAT. I'm not sure whether speed density would be the option with the drive by cable 24x setup, I would have to ask. Forged may not be completely necessary, but they are running a special on their turnkey packages for the first setup of the 10 options they have. I was able to get the FI LS3 option at the discounted price. For the power level I was hoping to achieve, it made more sense to at least look at going to forged pistons, which is where my initial conversation started with them. It will mainly be street driven but at some point I hope I can do some autox and maybe large track. Just for background, I took my car to bare metal to start my build and it includes RideTech Level 2 AirRide suspension with TruTurn and Musclebars, Baer Tracker full floater rear end on a 9" with 3.89 gears and TruTrac posi, Baer 6P brakes front and rear and Forgeline 19 x 11.5 (335/30/19) rear and 18 x 9.5 (265/35/18) front. The trans will be switched out to a T56 Magnum close ratio to go with the motor. Let me know if there is anything else I should be asking or if you have any further input. I really appreciate anyone willing to take the time to share knowledge, even if they may have different views. Its great learning experience! thanks, Jake Quote:
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If you want a little extra power, choose the LS3/525 and the matching GM harness and ECU. That cam is gentle on valve train parts, sounds great, and has an excellent torque curve. You'll save a bunch of money, and have an engine that makes more power than the average person can handle. Or...for that same (roughly) money as that "custom" LS3, I would do a LSA. Again, with the GM ECU and harness. That's just my 2 cents on the subject. Andrew |
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I ran a built LS7 in my last 69 approx 640 HP with a T56 My new car is an LS3/525 with a T56 Magnum F9 with 3.70 and 335/30/18s It runs better on the street at lower rpm (taking off from stops and cruising) then the LS7 with the big cam and honestly feels just as strong. Plug and play with the GM Performance and ECM. I just added a Holley Mid Rise intake more for looks then power. |
Makes it a little clearer now. For what you describe as your use, and to echo what Andrew said, try to stay with the GM parts. The E38 is a good ECM, and can be found anywhere at a dealer or online should a replacement be needed. The 58X with a MAF and IAT combo is much "friendlier" as it were, for street driving and occasional track use, and the part throttle driving experience is very linear. Speed density is an option with just about any setup, but no real need for speed density for what you are doing....IMO...
Sounds like you have a good plan and are using some quality parts in your build...keep us posted... T, |
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Andrew |
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