I run the M-60 filter also, and I do use TP in mine. I keep a 12 pack of Charmin in my shop...unbeatable for those moments when you run out in the house.
I change my roll out every week in the summer, and by then it's pretty wet. Of course here in Georgia, the humidity is 150% in the summertime.

Every compressor setup is different. This is why your manual won't have instructions as to what to use for filters, dryers, etc. Totally depends on what your using the unit for, length of daily runtime, and where you are located geographically. Temperature and humidity has a big affect on compressed air quality.

I wonder what the flow rate of the tp is?? Never thought about using it but maybe I'll give it a try. The humidity rate in Sun Valley is like next to nothing.

Greg, What do you suggest on 1/2" vs 3/8"? Should I reduce it down? Before or after the filter/regulator?

I just plumbed my compressor with 1/2" and mounted the filter/regulator next to the compressor. Is that incorrect?
Kevin

I use long (roughly 50') upward sloping lines of 3/4 copper with a couple of drops to drain the moisture. Copper dissipates the heat allowing the moisture to condense. I place my filter and regulator at the end of the run. I get very little moisture that gets to the filter even in humid weather. I use shark bite connectors to make the installation easy.

Neck it down to 1/2 for your regulator and filter at the end, not the start of your runs.

Don

If your outlet is already 1/2" you can stick with that. I wouldn't reduce it to 3/8" anywhere.

You should mount the filter regulator as far away as possible (for a small garage with limited length that is). It allows moisture in the air to condense and actually be caught by the filter/separator.

I didn't use a gauge to measure flow of tp vs. filter, but I noticed no difference either, when I switched over. My painter actually sold me on the tp. It's what he uses, and man is it cheaper than the real filters.

I'd run 1/2" copper and only reduce where absolutely required. Get regulator with 1/2" in and out if possible - the MP60 is 1/2" in and out.


Watch the pressure max on your copper -- cheap stuff is pretty thin walled.... and you need your plumbing to EXCEED the pressure capacity of your tank.

Some people plumb with Schedule 40 PVC plastic pipe.... but that's not for me -- if that crap shatters for some reason - and you're in the path of the splinters - you can't xray and find the pieces! LOL I don't know if that's true or not - but I'm still not plumbing my stuff in plastic.

Here here to that ,here in canada we have 2 thicknesses of copper pipe type L and type M. I don't think that I would use either
I'd plumb in schedule 40 black pipe or galvanized

The problem with using galvanized or black pipe is that the pipe rusts internally and then the rust gets into your tools. There's no way to keep condensation out of the pipe system unless you have an expensive "dryer".... 1/2" Copper tubing - schedule M - has an internal working pressure rating of 387 PSI (M is the thin wall stuff). Our little home compressors aren't capable of making that kind of pressure - So I think it's pretty dang safe.

My personal shop is all plumbed in 1" L rated copper tubing (main lines).