It does and I plan to elevate it tonight or tomorrow to see if I can get rid of it. Understand cap off?? Thanks

I agree with the air pocket diagnosis. Fill the engine through the upper radiator hose, and fill the radiator as well. Never had an issue with air pockets doing it this way.

Thanks

even though my gauge was almost pegged out the engine never got to the correct temps to open the t-stat. Use the infrared scanner and check. I also squeezed my hoses to let air pockets out. It times time but you will be fine

I also say air pocket. I've found my ls3 to be extremely sensitive to air pockets and somewhat tough to bleed whenever I'm refilling the system.

Steps I take now:
1. Jack the front of the car up.
2. Fill the engine first through the upper radiator hose
3. Then fill the radiator
4. Remove the 1/4 steam by pass line and ensure a steady flow of fluid (bleeding out last bit of remaining air).
5. Run the car with the heater bypass open and allow the thermostat to cycle with the radiator cap off multiple times.

Throughout the engine running and subsequent first cool downs ensure that the radiator level doesn't drop below the upper hose outlet at the waterpump.

Thanks will try all of this tomorrow

This may work for you as well (think some folks here and other site use this):

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Sp.../dp/B001A4EAV0

I plan to use one when I eventually get my LS engine in my car.

Good luck :cheers:

Stupid question, but you don't have tape covering the waterpump to block interface right? I've seen it happen before to a friend that painted his waterpump.

Also I've seen aftermarket waterpumps have the impeller on backwards, fall off, or just be missing all together if it's a stock style pump.

No tape, thanks. I plan to attack this again today

I have the car elevated but not to the moon. I have started it twice and see the bubbles, this time the upper hose is warming up as is the radiator water but the temps still pass 210 and lower hose cold. I do not let it go past 210