I have used Lizard skin on three of my builds and I think I'm done with it. I don't think it works well at all for sound and the heat product hasn't made my jeans tight. I always use Fat Mat on the inside of the car in conjunction and I think it's doing 90% of the heat/sound dance. I know it's about 30% thinner than DynaMat, but you don't need to pave a car to take the tinny sound out. I just bought 80 square feet on ebay for $100 shipped and have used it on 5 cars. It works great.

I recently used 80mm Fat Mat and thought it did a great job and was a lot cheaper than Dynomat and got it shipped via Amazon prime in two days:
http://www.amazon.com/FatMat-Self-Ad...rch_detailpage

We started using Boom Mat about 3 years ago and have been very impressed. It is one of the very very few products that is a standard on every car that we build. We have used many other brands in the past and like the Boom Mat the best. They have multiple thicknesses on the sound dampening mat and a great collection of other heat and acoustic handling materials.

To broaden the scope of this topic a bit, is it unwise to apply Dynamat (or any of these products) on vertical panels?

Years ago when applying Dynamat to my Camaro I was told it is risky to do the doors. That the product would not hold and would "slide" downward. Is this true? I am doing a Chevelle soon and would like to know. Also, I noticed Malitude has Dynamat inside the doors.

Curious has anyone put a mat product over lizard skin? Curious how that might work I have both the ceramic temp product and the sound deadening from Lizard skin on my car. I have been thinking about adding some dynamat to the inner firewall and inside of roof on top of the lizard skin

When going vertical, I use a heat gun to soften the mat to where it becomes extremely sticky then use a roller to apply it to the panel. Keep the heat on it and keep rolling it until it creeps from the edges of the mat. Essentially what's happening is you're just getting the buetel to grab all of the little crevices and pores of the panel. You can super crazy and frame it with aluminum HVAC tape if you're super paranoid about it. I've never had one come off.

I've used Lizard sound then ceramic on the bottom of the car. Then used FatMat on the inside of the cabin. Seems to work well.

I have dynamat over the lizard skin. No issues

It would only do that if the surface you applied to wasn't clean.... and therefore the sticky didn't stick. Like most things - you can't apply stuff over dirty stuff.

www.sounddeadenershowdown.com for information about controlling sound in your vehicles including comparisons between different materials.

As Rodger mentioned, you don't need it all over the interior. That's actually a huge waste of material, money, and added weight.

Vertical and upside down is no problem so long as you clean the metal before hand and apply with a roller. I did my daily driver Sierra all over the place and have had no issues with my dampening panels moving.