The Hydroboost runs off the power steering hydraulic system instead of using a Vacuum booster. So the unit fits in place of the vacuum booster behind the master cylinder. You're just switching one boost method for another. In my own case, my engine doesn't create enough vacuum to run a vacuum booster so the hydro-boost solved that problem and let me get rid of the vacuum booster, which took up more real estate under the hood as well.

Here's my Hydratech unit being installed in right now. I'm finishing up the lines while I wait on the pump.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/c...pstqvqbg3e.jpg

The Hydroboost runs off the power steering hydraulic system instead of using a Vacuum booster. So the unit fits in place of the Vacuum booster behind the master cylinder. You're switching one boost method for another.

Here's my Hydratech unit going in right now....


http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/c...pstqvqbg3e.jpg

Nice! I probably won't take my brake booster off now and trade, maybe something I will do later. I don't like the size of the vacuum booster. Your setup looks amazing. Right now I'm just ready to drive after this 9+ year build...

Brakes
 

Thanks Paul for the detailed instructions. I went to the SSBC site and they said basically the same thing only not quite as much detail. I do have a 4sp and do use the enrage everytime I stop but have never attempted to adjust it at the caliper. I didn't even know there was an adjustment there. I'm going to check it today and gravity bleed the rear brakes as well. Then at least I'll know I have done everything I could. I'll probably want to buy some better pads for the rears.
Do you have a suggestion on what pads I should hunt down? ( I think they said they were the same pads used on 87-88 thunderbird turbo cars)

My setup is not so nice as Doug's but she works. To me, so far, there's no comparison between the vac boosted and the hydroboost brakes. Hydroboost hands down one of the best investments going.

Robert

Brakes
 

Ok so I just got back from testing after a couple of hours of checking the adjustment on the e-brake system, running through the steps to make sure things are adjusted up where they should be and gravity bleeding the rears. Didn't seem to change anything so I'm assuming everything was working like it should. So next step is removing the prop valve from the rear line altogether and buying better pads for the rears.

One other thing that I hadn't mentioned before is I have 1/4" tubing coming out of the m/c and running back to the rear and only 3/16" for the fronts. I wonder if that might skew things a bit? It's the way the original lines were laid out but maybe that needs to be adjusted as well.

Robert

If your rear brakes are indeed the '87-'88 T-bird / Mustang items, then this explains why your current front brakes are working so much better than the rear brakes are (as the little itty bitty Fox body rear brakes just don't provide that much effective brake torque). We have done quite a bit of back to back testing with brake line sizing, finding no particular difference between a 1/4" and 3/16" brake line (main line running the length of the vehicle to the rear brakes). I suggest you swap out the rear pads to a more aggressive compound as the next logical move:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...172r/overview/

Brakes
 

Exactly where I'm going. I just bought a set of Porterfield R-4S for the rears. By all reports they offer very good grip at wide ranging temperatures. Much better than the cheap run of the mill pads that cam with the kit. We will see if the added coefficient of friction helps even some of the imbalance. Good to know the line size doesn't have much to do with it. They are all brand new. Thanks Paul.

And ???
 

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=54611

:happy23: