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I rebuilt the rear diff. I combined a 2001 Firebird rear diff and a 3rd gen housing with Moser axels, Richmond Gear 3.73 and a TA girdle.
https://i.postimg.cc/304SXnPp/20191225-122138.jpg The Torsen carrier was in great shape. https://i.postimg.cc/9rzVS2jt/20191208-151205.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Kkdr2FHk/20191230-112409.jpg The Third Gen diff not so much. All I wanted was the housing though. https://i.postimg.cc/Z9nrvCkv/20191227-143502.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/2VxvH4rB/20191227-154524.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/wyfxyjpM/20191227-154602.jpg I modified the drum brake backing plate to accept the LS1 rear disks https://i.postimg.cc/ft6kLbZs/20191230-144824.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/PpzZBZYc/20200105-211651.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/dhby3n9p/20200124-164119.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/sQcQnzRC/20200124-165219.jpg Took me four attempts to shim it up and get a good pattern, not too bad. Got it scrubbed up, painted and ready to go! |
A few pics from the paint shop:
https://i.postimg.cc/9z7sqfVk/20200112-101550.jpg Last weekend I went to the shop for primer inspection. Not many shops will let you go over the primered car with marking tape https://i.postimg.cc/nsrPVF00/20200119-181457.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/PNTFNQ3C/20200119-181424.jpg A couple of pics after color and clear. I hesitate to show these since it hasn't been cut and buffed. |
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Another pic from the paint shop today. https://i.postimg.cc/GH57gFqp/20200126-144638.jpg You can't see it in the pics, but they masked off spots for the subframe connectors to weld in once the chassis has weight on it. Some bad news from today: when bolting on the k-member to get the car off the rotisserie, they found 5 of 6 bolts lined up and the 6th didn't. He hadn't thought of 4-cornering the k-member and the subframe horns. I had him check and it turns out the subframe is either tweaked 1/8", which I doubt because there absolutely no signs of any previous repairs OR 90's GM quality. I bet it's the latter. :( The stock k-member bolted up fine. Two of the stock bolts were ~110mm, two were ~90mm. Lots of play there. The aftermarket k-member bolts flush to the frame with 6 - 30mm long bolts. So now the has to go to a frame shop post-paint. :_paranoid My hope is that with the tweak being only 1/8", subframe connectors, a front steering brace, a solid k-member flange on both sides and the strut tower brace that this won't be a big deal in terms of chassis flex. Any opinions on this? |
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Great color choice! I'm sorry to hear about the frame being tweaked. I hope it's easily fixed.
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Still working on cutting and buffing, so no complete car pics yet. https://i.postimg.cc/WtDJvwyn/20200202-153034.jpg Those 15" mags are looking sweet! j/k Here's a pic of the k-member installed, with 5 bolts lol https://i.postimg.cc/1fdSZDLp/20200202-152730.jpg UPS delivered these today:ups: https://i.postimg.cc/jnjppjcg/20200203-175708.jpg Pretty!! |
Any particular reason why you had it painted before building it, or will it be primarily just bolt on stuff? Scary having to straighten a unibody, weld on it, etc with all that pretty paint on it. I did it once with a customer's '67 Nova with subframe connectors, mini tubs and a frame tweak of 3/8". Luckily none of the body panels moved from pulling the frame. You shouldn't have any problem making the CAM-T minimum weight with your setup.
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As for the subframe connectors, with a unibody, you need all of the weight on the car plus ballast in the driver's seat before welding up the subframe connectors. |
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