Nice tin work, Mitch.

A 67 4 door hardtop Impala is a great looking car. I'd still rather have a two door, lol.

thanks man, just started following you on IG and on here as well.

they are much better looking than most muscle car era 4 doors. but I'll stick to my coupe.

Yessir...thanks. I followed you back. Keep up the awesome work.

Gotta say I'm extremely grateful that Lat-G is as active as it is.

Another car-related forum of which I've been a member for at least 20 years suffered a major data loss (hosting company screwed up badly) right around the time Facebook was taking off, and that was basically the kiss of death for the forum. Even though it's still online, it's a shell of its former self. Since you mentioned it, thought I'd thank you specifically for posting your progress here. It's so much better than Facebook.

Can't wait to see more of this one!

Once the car was a roller again, progress slowed down. The plan was to start body work, but as I began that I also bought a new house with a garage that became a massive project ( and still is to this day.) the house had a 24x24 garage with a bad roof on it. We talked to a few contractors and after finding one we like expanded the garage to 24x48, leaving the original walls to create a "clean" and a "dirty" side. it took a few months but the car finally got moved over from my parents to the new garage and I could resume body work.

The body of the car was very good, except for some rust in the rockers that I patched. I had painted the car before but being young and not experienced in anything but collision work on minivans and daily drivers, the panel fitment and gaps were lacking. So nearly all the focus was spent of making the car straight and fitting as a whole. I didnt strip the car back to bare metal because I knew what was under the previous paint job I did was still solid. Around that time I started to follow Tyler and Adam Krause, who are known for doing work for shops like Mirandabuilt, David Lane, Andy Leach and more. Tyler posts a lot of information, and I read it over and over and applied it to this car. In its previous life I had bonded a 4" cowl scoop to the hood, but it just wasnt the look I was going for this time around. I found an incredibly rare 67 ss427 hood in Long Island, one of only around 2100 built. I also spent a ton of time making the windshield and backglass moldings fit, even had to weld and file them to fix the shape of them. After the body work was completed the I put the car in epoxy followed by five heavy coats of polyester primer.

More body work pictures.

For some reason, I decided to completely slick out the front frame section. My fingers will never forgive me for that! Also I put a lot of work into the door jams, an area thats often not given much attention. I had a few breakthroughs of the first round of polyester (tan), so it was recoated in polyester again in gray this time. The black coating you see over top the primer is guidecoat, which I used a lot of to make sure the car is straight and to make sure there is no heavier sand scratches left behind. The primer was blocked in 100,220,320 and then 500 before paint. The last picture is an up close of the fitment of the windshield moldings after hours was spend re fitting them.

Lot of hard work right there. Gonna be nice for sure. I take it you're planning on painting the frame instead of powdercoating it...

yes the frame is built into the body now. so paint it is. another update coming soon.

It took me months to decide, but I chose BMW Tanzanite Blue as the body color. I pulled the body apart, and built racks to hang all the body panels seperate off the car so the jambs and everything could be painted at once. I sealed and basecoated the car early one morning, then tacked off and cleared the car the following day. 6 coats of clear on this thing used up a whole lot of material!!!! I let it sit with the heat cranked up for a few days before I started wetsanding it with 600. Then I let it gas out for another week before 1000,1500,2000,2500,3000, with guidecoat used in between each grit to make sure the sand scratches got eliminated. It was my first time using guidecoat on clear, and it saved me a lot of time both sanding and buffing without having to try to fight heavier grit scratches with the wool pad.

The engine bay actually got painted first, with a matte clear over everything. all the suspension pieces got sterling gray with a matte clear as well.