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I live in a small town in Tennessee, and there is no testing down here.
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When a car is saftey inspected for tags up here in Maryland, they are required to look for the emissions equipent. It has to all be there and hooked up. I don't know how far back our emissions tail piipe test goes.
Shiny Side Up! Bill '72 442 "Inamorata" |
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Great car to start with! Save that sheetmetal and get some paint on that thing fast. Cheap paint. Ugly paint. Any paint.
They love smog in Tenessee. It's a delicacy. :rofl: |
Holy crap, long time no updates!!!!
Wow, where to start? Well, being one guy working pretty well solo with the occasional bit of help from the wife and oldest (9 year old) son, it took a while but I got the 307 and 2004R out of the car. It took me about a year to get around to this point because I didn't have a lot of time, or drive, to work on the car http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...removal_1b.jpg After I got the engine and trans out, I got to work on assembling the new engine. I purchased a preassembled shortblock from a friend that was destined for a car of his but he changed directions. The engine has an XE274HR cam in it ground on a 110LSA, so it should be pretty mean. I got a set of heads from an 88 Trans Am to use for temporary to get the car on the road, and had them cleaned up and better valve springs put on them. Got the heads painted and bolted to the block. The newer heads means that the center bolt holes are drilled at 90*, so I needed a different intake. So I ordered a Summit Stage 1 intake, an Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm) carb, and an air cleaner, for the engine. I decided I want to run a serpentine belt setup from a late 80's F-body, so I got the brackets and such, and the engine was looking good with black and silver, so I had the accessory brackets wheelabrated at work and painted them black. I painted all the pulleys black too. Painted the HD water pump silver. I had the black OE center bold valve covers sand blasted and painted them silver, and used black bolts on them. I picked up a set of $75 long tube headers for the car, that were in a semi-rusted condition, and rather than spend $300 to have them coated, I spent $20 to have them blasted and painted them myself. So here's how the engine looks nearly fully assembled on the stand: http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...ost_done_4.jpg I have received all the parts I need to rebuild the 2004R to handle some decent power, and I have the 3200 RPM lockup torque converter here too. I have a 3.73 posi rear from a Monte SS in the garage by the car, waiting to go in, with a girdle cover for it too. Just got some suspension parts too: Bilstein HD shocks front and rear Eibach Pro Kit springs and Suspension Techniques 35mm front and 25mm rear sway bars. I'll post about the adventure on the front sway bar later... Got to run for now. |
These G-boys are fun cars to work on and they look good no matter what way you build them heres my 84 i just sold awhile back!
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/e.../MyCars024.jpg http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/e.../MyCars018.jpg |
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FWIW: I had a 85 Cutless a number of years ago, and a 455 olds will fit in that car, and if you attach the smog trees to the exhaust manifolds and hang the "Stock Airpump, a/c etc", on the front it is really hard to tell the difference between the two when looking at it. The width difference between the two is a 1.75 inches total, and the 455 hasn't been made in such a long time, many people wouldn't automatically realize that what they were looking at wasn't a stock oldsmobile. I think the olds engine for that year is still flat across the top and wide just like the older ones were. I know in my old car, if you sat both engines side by side it was remarkable how similar they were. Paint them the same color and run the same air cleaner. That with the smog trees, the air pump etc. will give you a really neat sleeper of a car. Ty |
Well, it's been a REALLY, REALLY long time since I've been here... Almost a year since my last stop in...
Before I go any further, let me tell you all about the sway bar experience. I ordered the ST sway bars from Summit. They showed up one day, just two days after I ordered them, and I noticed that the box for the front bar had a hole in the end of it and the bar would poke out because it would slide around. Well, I get the bars inside the garage and open that box and discover that the bar was broken! I had never seen anything like it before in my life. I'll let the picture speak for itself: http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...w_parts_21.jpg I've gotten a bunch done over that year, but not near enough to get the car on the road to be honest. But the end is in sight, I think. I have lots and lots of pics of the whole experience so far. Once I got the factory engine and trans out of the car, we rolled it out of the garage and degreased the engine bay. Then after letting it dry for a day or so, we rolled it back in and put it back on the stands and went to work on the rear suspension swap. The old rear was a 2.73 open diff. The new one is 3.73 posi out of a 87 Monte SS. Before installing the new rear I cleaned it and undercoated it. I pressed all the old control arm busings out (223k miles, I figured it was time for new ones), and had the arms sandblasted, then undercoated them as well. Reinstalled the rear with new Bilstein HD shocks and Eiback ProKit springs. After this, I installed a new pinion seal, followed by a TrickFlow cover/girdle and Suspension Techniques 1" solid rear sway bar. That should round out the rear suspension. Oh, taught my 9 year-old son how to do drum brakes on the car. He did one side on his own! A few pics of the rear suspension stuff: http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...ntrolarms1.jpg http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/.../finished3.jpg http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/.../finished4.jpg Then I moved to the front suspension. I replaced the stock shocks and springs with Bilstein HD's and Eibach Prokit springs, installed a Suspension Techniques 35mm solid sway bar, and center link, idler arm, inner and outer tie rods on both ends so I'd have fresh steering hardware. A few pics of the front suspension: http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...ion/front1.jpg http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...ion/front2.jpg http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...ion/front5.jpg A buddy came to help drop the engine and trans into the car, but we ran into problems. The driver's side motor mount wouldn't fit. It just wouldn't line up for anything. So the next day I pulled the engine back out of the car and got to looking at the part numbers stamped on the mounts and got to looking around and found that some people used the same number as one of mine on both sides of the engine so I ordered a matching pair like that one. Once they came in, I cleaned them up painted them and bolted them to the block. http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...l/drv_mnt1.jpg http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...l/drv_mnt2.jpg Here you can see that the two mounts were different, the longer one was the driver's side one: http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/.../new_mount.jpg |
Had to split this up because of all the pics...
With that completed, it was time to strip rust from the front frame rails and get the engine bay painted for engine/transmission installation. That took me a few days, but I got the black stuff black again, and was ready for install. I mated the transmission to the engine, and proceeded to slide the engine and transmission down into the car. The slid down into place and with just a little coaxing on the driver's side, it dropped right into place and the bolts slid right through the motor mounts. http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...pty_bay_1a.jpg http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...pty_bay_1b.jpg Became: http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...y_painted1.jpg http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...y_painted2.jpg http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...ng_in_car1.jpg http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...ng_in_car4.jpg http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/...ng_in_car5.jpg We put the trans crossmember up under the trans and set it on the frame and the car has set like that since. I haven't really messed with the car since then. I haven't had time to touch the car for the last couple of months. I'm one guy with a muscle disease (Muscular Dystrophy) and have problems getting time and energy to work on the car by myself. So it's taken a long time to get to this point. I have gotten one more significant (to me) part of this project completed, and that's my gauge panel. The car had a single long-arm speedometer with idiot lights, and I'm replacing them with a custom gauge panel with 6 gauges. Most people just use the rallye-pack gauges, but I'm going further by doing my own custom cut aluminum panel and Autometer gauges with LEDs for turn signals, high-beam, and transmission gear indicator. Gauge panel pics: http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/.../mounted_1.jpg http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/.../mounted_2.jpg http://www.willmannwebsolutions.com/.../mounted_3.jpg Let me see if this posts and I'll go back and pics. Hopefully, this is the last edit: I have my G-Force crossmember now. I also have what I hope to be all the small wiring, my split-loom, and connectors for my gauges too. I need to install the tranny mount, install the new crossmember, driveshaft, do the wiring on the engine and gauges, install radiator, hook up the fans (dual electric) and finish out a few other odds and ends and I think it'll be ready to drive before TOO long. Oh and I need tires for the IROC wheels I'll be using temporarily. Need some 245/50-16's for these wheels. I want some 17" Torque Thrust II's for the car, but don't have the money right now. |
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anyway, the gauge panel is looking great, as is the rest of the build cant wait to see it finished |
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