Oh, i wanted to say that if i had the cash to do everything at once (well, without having to sleep in the garage for doing so i mean;) ) i would definetely go with the AirRide system and do what's needed for the tanks and wiring.

I figured i can alway's upgrade next year and sell off the c-o's if i want to.

Just to be clear.


Lead.

I'd like to see some installed pics if any of you guys had a chance. How is the rear located? I know it replaces the leafs with LCA's and either coilovers or airbags but is there a panhard bar or a 3rd link somehwere?

Leadfoot1,
If you don't want to install the compressor kit right away you could just install a schrader valve and fill them up manually.

Rybar,
It is a triangulated 4 link, so it has two upper bars mounted at an angle. There are some pretty good pics in this article.
http://www.ridetech.com/techarticles/GEN1AIRBAR.pdf

The G-Bar has turned out to be a really neat system. AirRide has proven the performance of the AirBar/G Bar with their Track Challenge cars. As noted the AirBar and G Bar are the result of a joint effort between Air Ride and Chassis Works. Super simple install and I like the fact that the tubular upper structure adds a lot of triangulation and rigidity to the unibody structure too. It`s easy to see a LOT of thought and engineering went into the package. The nice thing is if you decide down the road you`re ready to try AirRide,just swap out the coilovers for Shockwaves and away you go. The geometry works out really well with our Street Comp Stage 1-2Plus and AFX tall spindle systems too. 2"-3" of drop is no problem,ride quality is a function of spring rate and especially shock adj. so that`s all up to you. The adj. range of the Varishocks runs from very soft to VERY firm so you have your choice. Mark SC&C

Darren, Mark, Thanks.

One more question if i may, since this is going so well now.

One thing i'm wondering and maybe you can help. I asked once before and would like your opinion regarding the lower bar front attachement. It's attaching in the front leaf spring pocket, the only thing i don't understand is why both systems (G and Air) are built with centered bushings, that takes space that we could use to put rubber!!! The Q-Linq uses a very nice Offset system that gives us the most useable space and thats really interressing for me since i have more than 14" of rubber on each side and am planning on more (355) next.

I've been told that unwelding the bar and rewelding it "Offset" was not a good idea (to gain clearance) because it would bind and cause stress on the bushing. How about a solid aluminum unit?

Hey Darren, Why don't you build it like DSE's set up! Talk to your Boss man! :lol: I will consider throwing my car in for tests! (and your idea on the ??? valve).

Thats the only downpoint i can see (for me at least)

Also, 2-3" drop from what? Original height? What is 69 Camaro original height?

I've got both prices from Frank...And DSE's too. Now decision has to be taken.

Thanks guy's!

Lead.

Mark, i'm going to call you next week (engine won't show up finally :( ) so its A-arms time! :woot:

Darren, thanks for the link. Any idea of exhaust clearance or routing with this system?

Rybar,
Here are a couple pics of how we routed the exhaust on our 67. Stainless Works is working on producing these tail pipes.

Leadfoot1,
It would be possible to offset the front bar on the bushing sleeve, but you would also have to move the rear link in as well so that it doesn't bind the bushing. This would only gain about a 1/2" of extra tire clearance. Keep in mind that it is already gaining about 5/8" clearance over the leafs.
On the amount of drop at rideheight I have posted a pic of a spacer that we tack weld between the axle and floor pan, just to the outside of the rail. This spacer is obviously just temporary to set ride height, pinion angle and axle center while welding in the upper tabs. At ride height this spacer is 8.5" tall. But the lower mount is also adjustable, depending on weather your pad is for monoleaf or multileaf.

I will probably install a regular, universal, "mono" pad. I saw that your lower mount is adjustable (3 right?) and just hope it will drop enough, it should as i don't want it on the ground, but want to ride it so the rim (20 x 13") is about 1/2 to 1" in the fender, tire is about 26.5 high (345-25-20).

And FYI........I AM NOW ONE OF YOURS!!! Yep, i ordered it today.

Can't wait to get it, its gonna be so freakin' cool!!!!!! :woot: :woot:

I went to bed last night and was set on getting the G-bar, but your comment about runnin' shop air remembered me that that's what i wanted to do in the first place, and you know what they say about first toughts (yeah, send a copy of this to Bret instead of the bushing idea, he owes this sale in part to you!) So i decided to go ahead and do it.

On top of that i really wash't picturing myself under the car upping and dropping the car with a wrench all the time + i've never ridden in an air suspended car before, but my Dualie is equipped with helper springs and it REALLY does a difference in the ride comfort, if the bags are empty, it rides really rough (like a truck), put in as little as 30 pounds and its another truck, so i figured the 3 girls in my life might like that too.

I might even steal the compressor in the truck and make the truck manual if i'm that broke by then! (being home sick for a few weeks is not really a good idea for me $$$:unibrow: But it sure makes the project progress!)

Do you really think i should only bolt it in or if a few passes here and there are a good idea while i have the welder in my hands....? My thinking is that bolts tend to move some under load, welds wont, so to add rigidity (remember its a 'vert) i'm thinking of welding it in.

Thanks,

Lead.

I've got one on order too. Should be here any day. We have been known to spend three or four hours in our favorite Italian restaurants. Adjustable suspension will be good to have around.

"Yo!"
"Wha?"
"You wanna go eat?"
"Yeah"

I would probably go ahead and lay a couple beads, but it is not necessary. We have 275/40/17's on our Red Camaro and the rear fender is about 2" above the rubber at ride height. Here are some good photo's.
http://www.ridetech.com/companyprojects/67camaro.asp