Thanks for the love, guys. Glad to call you both friends.

Before those of you reading start rolling your eyes, this is what it's all about. Competition breeds business and if you're comfortable in who you are and believe in what you do, you can be friends with guys you compete directly with and it makes the industry a better place.

Thanks for all the comments. This is realy good stuff. I am so glad to see how everyone knows one another & gets along here. As stated many times, you are all talented and I am encouraged by your attitudes. No battle of egos. I would enjoy the opertunity to meet with any of you guys if I would get the chance. Thanks for the encouragement (even if some of the links are "how to draw".- I know, always room for improvement! I'm working on it!).

While we are on the subject, for those of you who do them by hand, how do you scan them in so they look good? I have tried different scanners and settings, but I loose a lot of quality when I scan.

I usually draw the car out on 14x17 and have to scan it on my cheapo flatbed scanner in pieces at 300dpi. Once I have 3-4 sections in PS, I create a new file that's 16x20 at 300dpi. I drag each section into that file so they are on separate layers and rotate them into alignment with each other. Then I merge the layers in to 1 and desaturate it to enure that it's all black. The key is, again, good linework that's visible.

Here's an example of one that I did a while ago. (it's the only one I could find where I still had the original sketch)

It's a bit more on the "cartoony" side. But you can get the idea of the process anyway.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...art2Finish.jpg

I do the sketch on whatever size it ends up being. (sometimes I end up taping letterhead sheets together if it runs over) Then I take the scan into Illustrator and trace the sketch. You can then take the vector lineart and scale it to ANY size you prefer! I then open that in Photoshop, place it on a "master line" layer that is locked. Then do my color layers below that.
(hope that makes sense!)

Not saying that this is the best way, just the way that works the best for me at the moment.
But, I am always open to hearing other techniques!

Thanks for the replys. I really appreciate the visual Yard Dog, and will refer to that when I try going digital. I think I needed to be a little more clear on my question. I am not digital yet, so I am having problems scanning in finished work done by hand. Below is an example. I guess it looks OK, but it is missing something from the original. I don't quite know if I can put my finger on it. It is something in the color. It seams to miss some things but emphasizes other things. I just am not sure if it is my equipment or settings or if it is just the nature of the beast.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...70.5Camaro.jpg

The funny thing is that the way I do it by hand is really close to how I have seen it done digitally. I do my first sketch, sometimes a cleaner second, then use that one for a pattern for the finished one. Yet another thing that leads my thinking that I need to try to go digital.

Thanks again for all the information guys.

Just from a quick look I would say it is your resolution. As Ben said, you'll want 300dpi, no if ands or buts so be sure you've got that covered. If you're having color problems then you'll want to play with hue/saturation in PS. Image> adjustments> hue/saturation. There are other options that are fun under image> adjustments, like brightness/contrast. Each scanner works a little differently but I would just look for those cookie cutter settings that are most likely built in and pick whatever sounds like the best it's got. On my scanner there is a "best color photograph" ... well that sounds like the coolest setting she's got so that's what I use but I always scan at 300dpi. Your PS file then needs to be 300dpi also, and you might also be sure that your scan is being saved as a file such as jpeg or tiff. Once you've got that you might have to make the choice of using CMYK or RGB. Uh, those aren't exactly digital terms so you might know what they mean? I use CMYK. I was sort of a press printer in school so we used CMYK. Your printer will use CMYK and so on. The web and your monitor like RGB. Uh to be real honest, unless you're hard core glossy magazine editor extraordinaire then just use whatever you want. There is some conflict when it comes to print if you use RGB but 9 times out of 10 you aren't going to run into problems. My only suggestion is that whatever you use, use it in everything you do - scan, Photoshop, Illustrator, whatever. On a side note, I have to do the scan in parts thing too ... just the nature of not being able to afford a giant fancy pants scanner. It works fine. I don't keep my line art in my final, so my digital camera works even better, except it's not in CMYK and I have to change it, oh well. It doesn't have NEAR 300dpi kinds of resolution so that might not be feasible for what you're looking to do. If you're getting into 7 or 8 mega pixels then yeah, you should be alright using a camera. It's quicker than scanning. *shrugs*

a bit more looking, sorry. I notice that the Camaro logo was likely a web image that you used? It gets the jaggy edges from being very low res for the web. However, the car looks pretty good so I might have done a lot of typing information you already had. I don't see any issues but I don't have the original sitting in front of me either. It's good that you have that picky eye but you end up having to let it go at times because so many things come into play. Your monitor not being the least of your worries. It might look one way on your screen and totally different on mine. I can tell just from the black screen at home that neither of my monitors show me things the same. I keep one real contrasty and one real crappy and then compare images on them to see how "most" people will view them (because flat panels tend to come from the factory with no frickin contrast). You gotta basically find a happy medium in digital art for this reason. Plus the RGB and CMYK thing, print vs web or on screen. Your color settings in the software you're using ... blah blah blah. Everything is more or less working against you and you gotta shuffle it all into the "pretty good" category. Or pick a focus. No doubt everyone here is most concerned with how the final, printed image is going to look to the client, so create your artwork to that end. Having a pretty nice little printer to print test copies can help with this. I also choose my colors from a Pantone book so I know what they look like before I ever print. Which is another reason I use CMYK.

Hey thanks! I realize I was going the wrong direction as far as resolution. It makes sence now that I think about it. At home I have scanned them in at 600 dpi, and those look terrible. Here at work I have scanned them in at 400 dpi and they look better. I just thought it was the format (PDF versus jpg). I will definatly give that a shot.

Oh, yes the name tag is from the net. That is about as hi tech as I have gotten digitally.(LOL) The logo is new and I am not happy with the result of that either, but this was a gift to someone. About all I do to my drawing digitally is erase all the specs from around it and sometimes add highlights.

Thanks again for the help!:thumbsup:

higher resolution shouldn't cause you any more problems. i hate to lead you the wrong direction so now you've got me wondering what's up. If you're scanning an image and then bringing it into a new PS file rather than manipulating the scanned file itself, then I would make sure both files are the same format and resolution ... or that your PS file is no lower than 300dpi. Always keep in mind that monitors as well as color settings from machine to machine are going to differ slightly at the very least and some times significantly. If (and i say if) you opened 3 files, all exactly the same resolution and all RGB or CMYK - one PDF, one JPEG, one TIFF - they really should look more or less the same on screen in PS. If you move these files between programs and computers, then yes they could look different, but nothing drastic I shouldn't think. I would definately play with the scanner presets and find one you like or one you can work the best with.

My problem isn't so much with my monitor. There is a big difference when I just color copy it. I'll keep playing around with it.

Another great resource for artwork and body design etc...

Some might already know of it some not those who dont enjoy i'm learning new things more and more everyday.


http://www.carbodydesign.com/car-design-tutorials.php

Hello, New member here! DVierstra from So. Cal. I have also checked out carbody design website. Also have work on cardesignnews in their portfolio section. Getting odd jobs here and there it is either feast or famine!

Been doing automotive illustration off and on for years. I am attaching a quick Photoshop illustration I did of a modified '73 Laguna wagon converted into a two door wagon. I use both Photoshop & Illustrator to achieve desired effects. I really like this forum!
A helpful group of members.

Thanks,

DV

Giving this thread a bump, and sayin hey to DV ... I'm pretty new here too but, welcome!

Thanks Colter. I like your vector style illustrations. I checked out your deviant Portfolio. Like the Cuda! I also do vector illustrations. Here's a sample of a recent Car created in Adobe Illustrator Ford Wagon

It was a long process...used some transparencies of some graphic shadow elements to get the desired effects...

Thought I would give this a little bump, and I would like to know how many people use the wacum tablet. And from those who don't, how do you get it not to look like your coloring with different size circles?

Thanks,

I've thought about getting one of those but didn't feel like spending the money. I don't know that you really need it, it's more of a convenience thing I guess.

Not sure I know what you're referring to regarding "different sized circles". I'm guessing that you are talking about either the pencil tool or the airbrush tool in PS? It's next to impossible to get a nice, straight line using those. You need to use the bezier tool (looks like a pen) to create an adjustable path. Then you convert the path to a selection region (in the path toolbar) and use the stroke command (Edit menu-->Stroke) to make a line....sort of a pain but it's easier than redoing your pencil line 50 times to get it to look right.

As far as doing an airbrushed gradient, make the airbrush large and feathered towards the edge (like an airbrush). Then use your eraser to remove what you don't want. To make a sharp edge, follow the instructions for the path selection above.

Hope this helps.

yeah Ben pretty much has you covered. you're getting the multiple circle effect by using a hard brush with some opacity. by using a selected path as Ben described you're giving yourself the lines that you don't want to color outside of ... if that makes sense. This way you can use the brush in one quick stroke with the mouse. There is also select> feather, this would let you make a selection and then give it blurry edges rather than just being a hard shape of color. I have a wacom tablet but it's more to simulate painting. It is to take advantage of pen pressure and the zillion brush effects that you can get with PS. It's more for blending color than making a consistent gradient of color - the latter being more useful for automotive art. You'll notice that people who don't do what Ben does, have some sort of outlines on their cars for a "toon" effect. This is how they color inside the lines. Somehow, the key is, give yourself some boundary that allows you to make one pass of the mouse to color a large section and if necessary, remove what you don't want, or put something on top of it on another layer to cover it up. Then again, keep in mind that however you go about it, is part of what makes it your style.

btw, I don't use my tablet for drawing cars. Part of the reason is that I use Illustrator not PS, but I do use the pen tool and it works the same in both programs more or less - let me say that using it is the same. It is just as easy or easier to use the pen tool with the mouse as it is the tablet. Even if I used PS for drawing cars I'd likely use the tablet very little. ... And as a side note, I have a tiny tablet and for what I do I just don't see the point in a big one. I got my refurbished from wacom for 70 bucks and just bought the new Bamboo for my brother for 100 ... so you don't HAVE to spend a lot for a quality tablet.

You can also "Stroke" a path in photoshop. When you stoke the path you can also set it to simulate stroke pressure, so that it gets wider in the middle and thinner on the end.

Make your path with the pen tool. Make sure the pen tool is set to paths and not shapes. Once you have your path defined, right click on the path or anywhere in the screen for that matter, and click stroke from the pop up. You must still have the pen tool selected to do this. The simulate pen pressure is awesome and it will use the last brush selected in you brush tool.

Really a cool way of simulating pressures.

Carter

here is how to get a straight line in PS with the brush tool.

Get your brush tool. Click once anywhere on screen. This will but a color dot on screen. move the mouse to a different locations. Hold down the "SHIFT" key and click once. This will draw a straight line from "POINT TO POINT". I use this trick more than any other I know.

Carter

LOL thats my favorite technique to use when doing grills etc...You're right thinking about it thats is the one I use most...

As far as wacom I stopped using mine and send it back it was useless to me just became to cumbersome and didnt does not simulate real world pen to paper at all.

Pen tool/stroke path/fill path are the main techniques I use for all my renderings.

Even after 7 pages I'd still like to read more. haha

I've drawn a lot of cars with pencil and paper, but they really are just illustrations, not designs. I've also done Photoshop work modifying photos to get a visual of what I have in my head. Attempted photo-realism is not very forgiving.

I also have a Wacom tablet and haven't found it to be very useful. I got the 6x8 and it is actually a little large. It seems my natural stroke is not very compatible with the size of the tablet and the screen window. It helps when I zoom out, but then I get a step in the line when zoomed back in.

A lot of what I do is either photo-based or graphic/logo-based. I have found it tough to really bring artistic style to a digital medium.

This is I think the best I've done so far, and as you can see it is somewhat of stretch to try and make it believable as real.

http://gearheaddezign.com/art/franken-z_orig.jpg

http://gearheaddezign.com/art/franken-z.jpg

looks pretty frickin solid to me, though the pics are small. good or bad, you certainly improved the car significantly as far as looks go.

Thanks guys. That was it. I just have to play around with it some more. So how does PS pick up pen pressure with the mouse? To improve the feel on the wacum tablet, my brother puts a real sheet of paper on top of the tablet since he has the same problem.
Thanks again,

Nah, you don't get to have pen pressure fun without a tablet. Sorry.

Here is a full-res:
http://gearheaddezign.com/art/franken-z_full.jpg

The wheels & tires are terrible when blown up because the biggest reference photo I could find was 1024x768 and the car was kinda small inside the framing. The mirrors are also pretty bad because I made them out of nothing. Tough to pull off with a photo-realistic feel. The fender vents could use some more work too.

Anything else you'd like to see differently from a style/presentation stand point??

The real tough part is getting my real car to look like that...

Here is another to take a look at. I didn't like the headline title but that's what he wanted.

http://gearheaddezign.com/art/haulins10.jpg

http://gearheaddezign.com/art/haulins10_full.jpg

There are pretty good though.When you brush mirrors or vents etc... try copying reflections from the car itself and put it on a new layer using overlay or softlight filter.It will give it a more real world feel.

If you need wheels In high res I have a resource where all the pics are 3000 res and above.

Just PM me and I will link you to it

yeah Z is pretty much the resident brush/chop master so he's your man. Just chopping seems like it would be pretty tough to me. I used to use it as a base for some of my stuff but no mas cause without quality ref material it's hard to get the results you're looking for.

Glad to see this subject was well discussed. As I have been doing work on the side for years. From children's books, t-shirts, magazine ads, Web-sites, and personal renderings. It has been summed up as take pride in your work and do not sell yourself short. It not only hurts you, but everyone else because the "general" public sees it as you are doing it because it is fun and they are looking
for something cheap. There are the ones out that can and do appreciate quality work and are willing to pay your for your "work."

Great job everyone!!:bow: :hail: :bow: