Oh Man ! I can't wait to see those installed and on the ground !!!! Me likey very much !

:drool:

When I purchased the car, I noticed that the exhaust covers were dented right next to the jacking area.

The original jacking area on the car was a small steel bar that was bent into a loop shape and welded to the frame. It appeared that the underside of the steel bar was flush with the underside of the exhaust. Therefore when the car was jacked-up the jack pad would contact the exhaust cover and dent it. So I decided to fix this.

My solution was to fabricate aluminum mounting pads that were 1/2" thick and mount them to the frame. By using this thickness the underside of the jacking pad and the exhaust cover are no longer flush with each other. I can now safely jack the car up without touching the exhaust cover.

Before I installed the new aluminum jacking plates to the frame, I removed the original bar loops. I then drilled holes in the frame and installed riv nuts so I could attach them with a machine screw.

Below are pics of the aluminum plates. The rear jacking pad is larger than the front jacking pad. I used stainless steel bolts with allen wrench heads. I counter sunk the mounting holes so the bolts would be flush.

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I suggested in previous posts that I was thinking of installing a different cam and new VEC 3 unit to tweak horsepower. I never even thought about the cylinder heads.

But then I received an excellent suggestion from a Viper Club of America member about making power. He mentioned that the biggest contributing factor to make power is making sure that the heads move large volumes of air. He suggested that I have the Hennessey heads checked for flow. This absolutely makes sense since I already have the intake and exhaust removed.

I spoke to Greg Good (Greg Good Cylinder Heads in Houston, Texas) on Friday about my cylinder heads. Greg is an awesome guy to speak with!! And his work is highly regarded by Viper Club of America members. So, I got out my wrenches and ripped the heads off. They will be shipped to him this week.

Stay tuned for the flow numbers.

Below are pics of the Hennessey heads with T&D roller rockers.

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Engine with cylinder heads removed.

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wow, sure you don't want to just take the whole motor out and replace it with the new 8.4? lol Love the work your doing man, can't wait it see it done.

I think the snow ball is rolling and I can't stop it :D I'm contemplating removing the cam shaft and lifters. I am speaking with a couple of engine builders right now to determine what I should do with the heads and cam to make 700 hp/tq.

Stay tuned for the development :thumbsup:

Thanks to SilverSnake (Viper Club of America member) I decided to take some pics of the wheels mounted on the car. I'm still a long ways away from putting it on the ground but I just had to see what it looked like. WOW!! I LOVE IT!!!! :drool:

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I installed a drain plug in the bottom of the differential. This will make it soooo much easier to maintenance. Much thanks to the Viper Club of America Technical 'How To' thread.

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You really are takeing this viper to next level:thumbsup: Good work , really intresting thread!!!!!!!!

I'm really pumped that so many members are enjoying the thread. Stay tuned for some exciting stuff. Think Supercharger :wow:

New Sneaky Pete gas cap installed. Absolutely beautiful!!

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One thing I noticed when I drove the Viper is the intense heat generated by the exaust. The cabin of the car turned into an oven. :omg: Many Vipers have caught on fire because of the heat generated in the side sill area.

In order to reduce the heat and possibility of fire my solution is to install heat barrier to the sill areas and wrap the exhaust with heat insulation.

I removed all of the weld spatter from the side sill area to create a smooth surface so the heat barrier would bond. I then primed and painted the sill area. Next I installed Thermo Tec's Adhesive Back Aluminized Heat Barrier rated up to 2000°F.

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What, you could'nt get your hands on any heat tiles from the shuttle ? :lol: Just kidding, your project is coming along great. Keep up the great job.:cheers:

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

David

That cracks me up :rofl: I never thought of calling NASA about their tiles? NASA probably doesn't even realize that they have an "aftermarket" for them. :D

Oh, but I guess they are busy dealing with ex-astronaut stalkers right now. :lol:

ENGINE MOD'S - UPDATE

My initial plan was to modify my NA Gen. II engine to attain appx. 700 HP/TQ at the rear wheels. But I have since changed my mind after reviewing all the information posted by Viper Club of America (VCA) members. I have decided to SUPERCHARGE my Viper.

I have come to the conclusion that it is expensive to get big power out of the NA V10 (heads, stroker kit, intake). It appears that one of the least expensive routes is to supercharge the engine. By supercharging the engine I will attain the power numbers that I want...and more.

The supercharger that I am planning on installing is a Paxton. Joe Donovan (PBJ) has advised me to purchase the "Tuner" kit from Paxton and he will supply the rest. PBJ will be advising me very soon with the mods required. I really look forward to hearing from him.

I will be sending my Venom 550 heads to Greg Good to review and determine what is required to make them flow the best.

Stay tuned!

this is a pretty damn cool project. your fixing all the little design flaws the viper may have had, then improving upon everything else! keep us posted!

Supercharging will be alot easier on the engine too, good way to make a crapload of power.

I love improving the styling and power of all cars I work on without making them look junkie with too many add-ons. In my opinion all mods must look like it was meant to be there in the first place. :thumbsup:

Wait to see the aftermarket hood I have purchased for this car. It's absolutely scarey lookin'... in a good way :D

Pic of dash with instrument gauges, stereo and steering wheel removed. I have left the passanger air bag intact as I didn't want any mishaps...BANG! :eek:

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In an attempt to reduce cabin temperatures due to engine and exhaust heat I installed 2000°F Heat Barrier on the transmission tunnel and next to the door openings.

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When I was driving my Viper I noticed how difficult it was to read the speedometer. There are so many numbers on the gauge that my eyes started to criss cross. I'm considering sending all the gauges to Classic Instruments and having a custom gauge faces made. I want the gauges to look more modern and less congested. Below are pics of the original Viper gauges.

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Get digital gauges.
Can't get more modern and easy to read than that.

Mal

Hmmmmm...never thought of that??

I just finished installing the Dynamat type sound deadener in the interior. I have yet to complete the rear 'trunk' area where the subwoofer and rear speakers will be installed.

Welcome Earthlings! Step right in and I'll take you to my leader :wow:

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Ohh please stay away from those...

I'd have to agree. I had them in a street rod and they change so often they become impossible to read accurately at a glance. I'll never do that again.

Needles are better- you can glance down and see what's up while you're at speed. There are plenty of killer gauges out there- I like Autometer but that's me.

Please don't go digital...you'll regret it.

~SP~

I totally agree with you!! I'm gonna stick with the needles. I'm hoping and planning on sending my gauges to Classic Instruments to get a 'one-of-a-kind' gauge faces. I will stick with the white background but use a different text font and hopefully different needle indicator.

Stay tuned!! :thumbsup:

You could just have them take out every other number, but leave all of the dashes.

On the heat issue
 

I just read, and you may know this, that by removing the cross over pipe. Changing to free flowing cats and a Corsa exhaust, plus what you have done, significantly reduces cabin temps.

I have been cruising the viper sites recently. Just can't seem to shake the desire for a SRT-10 convert.

Hey Payton! Thanks for the info on the exhaust. The exhaust currently on my Viper is a Hennessey system and doesn't have the crossover piece. I have purchased Random Technology high flow cats and Borla race mufflers. She's gonna be one loud machine :unibrow: :D

Vipers in general are most affordable today in the market place. Their prices are very low...don't know why. So now would be a great time to get into a Viper. Best place to look for Vipers is on Ebay, Viper Club of America www.viperclub.org, Viper Alley www.viperalley.com ... to name a few.

Before you buy a Viper make sure to determine who owned it and where it came from. The best way is to speak with Viper Club of America members who will tell you who to purchase a Viper from and who not too. Very, very important!! You can search the Viper Club of America website for information but in order to speak with the members you will need to become a member...I think membership is $100 per year. And you don't have to own a Viper to become a member. :thumbsup:

Hope this helps!! Maybe I'll speak to you on the Viper Club of America website someday.

Cheers
Jason

Cross over pipes were on '03-'06 SRT-10's only.

My old Hennessey car I just sold. Head/Cam...585 rwh 577rwt

SW
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SW...how could you sell such a beautiful fast piece of work?? :wow: Your Viper had the best stance and fastest Hennessey package you could get at-the-time! Your Viper looks absolutely mint!!! :hail:

Spare Tire is a MUST!!!

Well I thought I was being a real smart fella when I removed my spare tire out of the back of my Viper to remove weight and then sold it on Ebay.

I was just informed by a Viper Club of America member that the spare tire is a very integral part of the rear crumple zone. Apparently the spare tire ties the whole rear structure together as one complete unit. I was also informed that if I ever spun out and crashed into something backwards their is a very good chance of injury if the spare tire is not in the rear. In addition, the insurance company will then check to see if the rear tire was in the car and if not then I am absolutely @#$%@#$%!!!

So needless to say I am going to get another spare tire and put it back in its place.

SW, absolutly stunning!!

This is the rear 'luggage/storage' area before I install the sound deadener. Notice the cavity where the spare tire should be. I will be building seperate speaker housing/enclosure that can be set into this area after the carpet has been installed.

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I find that VERY hard to believe.

Here is a quote from The Viper Wizard about the spare tire.

"ViperDays will not let you run without a spare in place, when bolted/screwed into place the spare becomes an intergal part of crumple zone and tere is actually a cable that connects the rear two sides of the frame/chassis to the bolted in spare.

Without the spare in place and lets says you spin out and back it into a telephone pole, your frame rails may split resulting in catastrophic failure!! If this should happen and you or your passenger gets hurt and there is an investigation, if they determine that the spare not being in place causing the injury, you f**king lose!! "

ViperDays is a performance driving school for Viper owners.