Well guys it does not look like its going to happen. I am over the budget I gave myself and still short about $500.00 for some mis stuff I need to finish. I was fortunate enough to get myself out of dept last year and I refuse to go back in. In addition the powder coating taking an extra 8 days just threw off my already very tight schedule. I could just slam it together and still make it but I have come this far already I just don't want to cut any corners. My wife has been very understanding but my 2yo daughter is having I hard time with me comming straight home eating and going out to the garage every night for the last month so I need to spend some time with her.

I already have the time off for PT and some money set aside for the trip so I am going to supprise them both and spend a few days down in South TX at the beach.

On to project update........

When I went to assemble my rear E-brake assemblies I noticed I was missing two little pins. My guess is they fell through the screen when I had the harware cleaned up and zinc plated. The only way to get that pin is a 100.00 kit from GM.

I dicided to make them and it turned out pretty good. I borrowed one out of a friends Camaro to copy. I used 1/4" grade 8 bolts to make two new ones. I chucked the bolt up in a drill and ground off the head will a bench grinder while the drill was spinning to keep it uniform. I used a file while the drill was spinning to sneak up on the size. Then 180 sand paper and finally 400 emery cloth to polish the tips. My finished pieces are with in
.004 of the of what the factory ones are long. Few hours work was a whole lot better than $100.00 to get new ones.
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/8...ires042wl0.jpg

After greasing up the front bearings and installing the hubs I slipped on the C6 rotors. I one side I could see a bad wobble. I put a dial indicator on it and it was .035 tolerence on the runout. I took that rotor to work to check it on a brake lathe and it was fine. Now I was thinking I had a bent hub so I but the indicator on it. Luckiy the problem was a high spot on the face of the hub. I few minutes with a hand file and it was level with the rest of the hub. Now the runout is only .004 on that side. Much better.
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/4...ires069ni1.jpg
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/6...ires070tj9.jpg

Only other thing I have done is finish the front suspension and steering. I ordered the wrong drag link. I did not know there were two different sizes. I ordered a 7/8 and need a 13/16. I thought to save time and $$ I cleaned up the original and installed it but it has a little play in one of the joints so its going to come back off. Now I need to oder a 13/16 link or find a pitman and idler for the 7/8 one.

The last thing I did Saturday was test fit a wheel to get an idea where to run the hard lines so the still clear the 9" wheels up front. I sure do like that last picture.
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/5...ires072zi5.jpg
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/3...ires071mc1.jpg

Attaboy for thinkin' about the supportive spouse & your daughter. You've done alot in a short time so take the trip w/the family. The car & the rest of us will understand.

I'm bummed but nothing I can do. Maybe next year the 455 will be done and I can have Power on Power Tour :yes:

Today was a bust. As far as the project. I spent the morning with my daughter and went outside mid day. I planned on building brake lines. After making one of the rear axle lines I went to flare the end. Just as the tool started to seat I heard a pop. The insert for the double flare broke :x
http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/7...ires093lc8.jpg

Only other thing I did was spend a few hours on the front calipers. I filed, sanded and smoothed all the machine marks and casting texture and flash. I can't wait to get these painted. They are one of my favorite things about the whole build.
http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/4...ires075xh7.jpg

I reall like this build. It is how I would do it. Spend the money on the right things and on a budget.
Love the wheels and the calipers.

If you loved the wheels before what do you think now. :unibrow:

Waiting on a new hydraulic flare tool to do my brake lines. I did get the wheels painted and mounted the tires today. I can't wait to see the body down over these.

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/9...ires106eq0.jpg

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/8...ires105dw1.jpg

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/5...ires104vz9.jpg

Dang those are sweet lookin'!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Thanks I am pretty proud of them


Not too much to report today. I had to work most of the weekend but I did get in the garage a few hours tonight.

About a week ago I discovered I have a small problem as I was fitting up the rear brakes. The rotor was not centered in the caliper basket. After a little research on line I saw the other people are running washers or buying a spacer to bring out the backplate. Someone makes one intended for Camaros and Chevelles but it is 3/16" thick. I spaced mine out 3/16 with washers and it was too far. I get it very close to center on my Olds rear with .125" so I decided to make some spacers.

Now that I will bring the backplate out it creates another problem. I had thick spacers made at a machine shop to go between the factory bearing retainer and the axle seal and bearing. Now the spacer will be .125 too short. I'm not going to pay to have them made again so I made spacers for my spacers. Since I already have to cut a hole in the other spacers cut a second hole in the center first and then cut the outer ring. By doing it this way I am basicly making my bearing spacer when I cut the center out of the backplate spacer.

Here is the 1/8" plate marked up before cutting.
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/6...ires107pu9.jpg

Here is the new bearing retainer spacers next to the machined spacer. It's hard to hold the plasma torch steady going arong the circle but they are close enough that a little time on the bench grinder they will be ready to use.
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/5...ires108xr8.jpg

This is me cheating to make a nice straight cut with the plasma. Just clamped a piece of steal spaced away from my line so the torch cuts right on the line.
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/4...ires112xs7.jpg

Here is the rough finished backplate spacer. Little bit of time with a file and it will be ready for a quick coat of paint.
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/1...ires113jn9.jpg

I finally got a little done on the car today. After vacation I hurt my back and did not get anything done since. It still a little sore so I was going slow and taking it easy.

I the task I needed to accomplish is to build brake lines from scratch. i am switching to 3/16" front to rear line to match what was on the car the the brakes came off of. Pre-made lines only come in 1/4" so I just ordered 20' of stainless 3/16. I think it all came out good. I used the factory retainers and added a few of my own. The are Krugel line clamps I picked up at a local street rod shop.

I was origially going to run a 67 dual res. distribution block with a Wilwood proportioning valve. I changes plans when I found that Summit sells a block with a build in valve. I did not want to mount it showing in the engine compartment so I mounted it under the car. I made a bracket thar bolted to the original gear selector bracket holes in the frame.

Made a template out of cardboard to get an idea of what I wanted.
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/9...ires132fg8.jpg

I then cut it out of 1/8" plate with a plasma cutter
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/7...ires131zw3.jpg

After drilling, grinding, shaping with a torch in the vise this is the finished piece ready for paint
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/4...ires133ve4.jpg

Finished in semi-gloss black and installed.
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/2...ires136en0.jpg

Here are the rest of the brake lines installed from the block back. I will try to do the fronts Sunday
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/2...ires135rw8.jpg

http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/2...ires134so0.jpg

Things for been going slow the last few weeks. My boss has been on vacation so I have been working extra to keep up with his duties and mine. Last weekend I selected to completly clean up and rearrange the garage instead of working on the car. It was something I should have done before I started but I was in such a hurry to get going I didn't. Its now laid out much better to tackle a big project like this.

Today I finally got a little work done. I am a little gun shy on my back still so I have been working slow and paying much more attention to how I move and bend.

I did lots of odds and ends that are not worthy of pictures. I did manage to build the front brake lines and get the motor/trans mocked up in the chassis to measure for the driveshaft. I still have to get the calipers powder coated and have the driveshaft built. Once thats done the rolling chassis can be finished up.

The boss did stop in and check on progress. Number one question from her has been "Daddy when are you going to finish the 'vertible" She is ready to start riding again.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/5...ires142ps7.jpg

When I built the rear brake lines my cheapie parts store bender got the job done. The the front I needed some sharper bends and much closer together than my bender is capable of. I scrounged up some 3/4" all thread and nuts to make up a quicky home made bender. It worked great.
http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/551...ires137yb6.jpg

Here is the finished front lines. I will wait for the body to be back on the chassis before building the feed lines.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/8...ires138tr7.jpg

One thing I was not sure about has how the rear crossmember was going to work out. After mocking it up with the tranmission it place I found out its going to be a cake walk. I will be able to use one exhisting hole and drill one new hole in the frame braket on each side.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/3...ires144ct3.jpg

Even thought it was only temporary to measure for a driveshaft it sure was nice to see a motor sitting in place.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/9...ires143js6.jpg

This is great stuff! I might have missed it, but what did it cost you for the zinc plating on the hood hinges, etc.?

Thank you. I took the original big bunch of stuff and it was 275.00 I was so happy with how it turned out I took another small amount and it was another 75.00

I am still happy with al the nuts and bolts in both colors and most of the silver stuff. Some of the black parts I don't think I would do again. There is some yellowish staining showing up on some of the parts. It started out as just barely showing but seems to be getting worse in places. Its almost like its leaching right out of the metal. I have not tried with any kind of solvents yet but it does not some off by just rubbing it.

Thanks for the reply. I've done some black oxiding before and found that rust can come back and make things look a little tarnished. I'll have to seek out a local plater to chat. :thumbsup:

Its hard to find a place to stop LOL

I was originally going to just do a quick wash and rattle can the firewall. Since I no longer have a target date I took it a little farther. The rest of the engine compartment will look so clean and detailed so I have to make this pretty too.

Used a heat gun and a wood paint stick to get the old undercoating and black body sealer off. The paint stick works good and does not gouge the metal. I left all the original white seam sealer.

I used a DA with 120 everywhere I could and finished by hand in all the nooks and crannies. I then shot it with 2K direct to metal primer. I have some Eastwood chassis black but its laquer and I was afraid if might attack the primer. I will try to find some paint this week.

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/7...ires145ys8.jpg

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/4...ires171px1.jpg

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/5...ires172fl3.jpg

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/6...ires174au1.jpg

Those wheels look way better now! It is a classic design and the painted details emphasize this and give them more depth. Nice!

That's the problem.. "might-as-well" syndrome..

Tell me about it :yes: The real sad part is now after this I don't think I will ever be able to build a car and not go this far every time.




This week after work I have been getting some little parts painted. Rattle canned I few things but did not com out as nice as I wanted so I am using real paint from a gun.


First sand blasting all the old paint and surface rust. I then been hitting with 120 DA to smooth out the basted parts but still leave some bite for the primer. I robbed a floor shift column out of a 66 Lemans. It was really nasty field car piece. Its looking better than new.

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/2...ires180ga9.jpg

Next was a couple coats of 2K urethan primer followed by 400 paper to be ready for final paint

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/5...ires182fa0.jpg

Here are a couple of finished pieces. I am very happy with my results for never painting anything with a gun before. I've used it to shoot some primer but thats all. This is good practice before I paint the firewall.

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/9...ires181ap0.jpg

Looks very good you did a nice job with the paint gun. Keep us updated.
Wayne

thanks...


Painted some more parts this afternoon. These turned out even better than the first batch. With all the odd shapes I have painted I think painting a big panel will be a piece of cake.

steering column top pieces
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/984...ires184oz0.jpg

power steering tank
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/319...ires186rc5.jpg

heater box
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/570...ires185iw6.jpg

Not much of an update as far as progress but did overcome a big hurtle today. I sold the wifes Tahoe so several small parts to buy and, plating and last little bit of powder coating can be done. I mentioned before I got myself out of debt last year. Its been so tempting to just order the stuff I need and pay for it later but I have just been patiently waiting.

I did decide to paint the gas tank since you will be able to see it from the back of the car. Since this was a Northern car it had a ton of undercoating. The normal method of heating up the coating to get off was not the best idea on a gas tank. I tryed several methods but in the end a razor blade on a windshield scaper was the fastest method.

It still took the better part of and afternoon to get it cleaned off. The blade left gouges in the metal So I primed with a heavy fill, blocked with 180 reprimed and wet sanding with 600.

I just finished painting it with dark gray metalic (same as wheel background) and semigloss clear. I think it turned out great. I will have the factory straps plated silver for a nice contrast and detail.

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/2...ires207ci4.jpg

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/8...ires211tr9.jpg

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/3...ires212sx8.jpg

sick joe touring
 

There is something very wrong with joe-touring, and I like it :-) Would a full build on a 90 LX notchback be considered a pro touring car? They are climbing on 20 years old.................

Tank turned out really nice.

Thanks here is a little more. I'm letting the paint dry.

Thought I would come in a soak up some A/C. My finger tips are sore from sanding all the hard to get at pieces of the firewall.

I found the color of paint I wanted by stopping off at a local street rod builder Sasche Rod Shop. The painter there was nice enough to walk me through the shop to see if I could point out the sheen I was after. I pointed out something and he gave me the PPG sheet of exactly how he mixed it. I really like it.

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/5...ires213vs3.jpg

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/5...ires214mc3.jpg

Who's painting their stuff now? I haven't talked to them since Autorama in Feb....

I forgot his name. I know several guys in the front but not the ones in the shop.

The progress looks great! Keep up the great work!

Thanks... how is the Turbo Olds comming along. I have not seen any updates latley.

Working on it now. In the middle of a zillion things at this point... body is done with filler, and it gets spray polyester this week, then more sanding. We'll have more updates soon.

Looking for opinons or suggestions

The few std transmission throttle linkages I have been able to find are way out of my price range. I had an idea to just trim down the pot metal piece getting rid of the electrical part and refinishing to look like it was never altered. After disecting it I just could not figure out a way to trim it down and still keep its structual integrity and the needed stops that are built in to the piece.

I then had the idea to just reverse engineer the piece and just make it from scratch. I whipped it up out of wood to get an idea of how it will look. What do you guys think? Leave it as is, change it a little or start over? The is the side the upper part of the linkage will be attached to and pivot on.

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/1...ires217cr9.jpg

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/9...ires218jr1.jpg

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/4...ires219nv8.jpg

Ok, I give.... what in the world is it and why do you need it?

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

66 uses linkage for the throttle instead of cable. The auto cars have a built in electric kickdown and converter switch for the switch pitch converter. Thats what the pot metal piece is. The 4-speed cars dont use the electric part. I did not want the big ugly switch that won't be plugged in to anything and I don't have $200.00 to spend on 4 speen linkage.

Sorry, I missed this build until now. You are making some great progress. I'd love to see it in person. & Props on that F-ing genius homemade wheel clearance measuring thingamajig. I just went through trying to measure backspacing for my new wheels & thought about making something similar but, I found it easier to find someone else who has already done the measuring on their car. You probably don’t have that convenience being this is the only 66 Cutlass I’ve ever seen get this treatment. I’ll be keeping an eye on this build. I love the builds that are different.

Oh yeah, that is me with the 1973 Mustang on DFWStangs username: Phat-Stang.

Just hit a salvage yard and pull a cable style unit from a later car. If you go early-mid 70's the pedal should match up pretty well.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Thanks I hope to have it out and about as soon as I can. I'm sure you will see it at one of the local cruises or shows. I will watch for you on DFWstangs

I took the last week off on the car. I can aross a deal on a 01 Z28 with a blown motor. Worked on cleaning up and detailing it. Sold in 6 days and made a few bucks I can put back in the Olds.

Finally got a little work done tonight. Mostly odds and ends cleaning parts for future install.

I had a couple tries to get something I like and I and now happy with how the throtte piece is comming out. Still need to smooth it out and get it ready for refinish but you can get the idea of how it will look. The pot metal piece is what will be replaced.

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/9...ires215ja3.jpg

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/7...ires240xx4.jpg[/img]

Today I dropped the last of the stuff I need plated off to the industrial plater I used before. I picked up my calipers a few days ago from the coater.

Boys and girls don't try this at home. I now have so much time in these front calipers its not even funny. About 2 hours sanding and shaping. About 4-5 hours with an xatco knife cuting the high heat tape for the coater and another 6-7 hours with the smallest dremel bit I have ever seen (apox 1/16") and xacto knife trimming the coating out of the letters and getting the masking tape out. My vision is finally a reality and I don't have to worry about seeing 50 cars with the same aftermarket brakes.

Drum roll please...So what do you think?

http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/8...ires245ra8.jpg

They look very nice! When you want something really special that noone else has, you gotta put some money, time and idea into it. But the final result is awesome!

Nice!!!!!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Thanks guys. Can't wait to see them behind my wheels

Real progress today


Got the pistons back in the calipers and got them all ready to install. I need to pick up some pads this week.
http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/785...ires251ud7.jpg

I got the belhousing mocked up one more time with the .007 offset dowels. Its now right under the specs recomended by the manufacture. They say .005 and I am at .004
Don't buy the Lakewood brand offset dowels. Mine were bigger than the hole by about .003
Went and got Moroso ones and they were right on.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/6...ires246vh1.jpg

Installed the adapter pilot bearing to use in an auto crank. I have read mixed revues about these. Hopefully it will last 6-8 months until the 455 is built.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/3...ires254tb5.jpg

Using a Centerforce DF clutch set and a McLeod ajustable pivot ball.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/4...ires252af9.jpg

Finally out of the box and bolted to its new home.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/9...ires255ol3.jpg