![]() |
Thanks very much guys, I feel better about it now.
|
Yeah, I had 5500 miles on mine (complete 9" from DSE) and it never made any noises. I've got a little under 8000 miles now with the same center section, but floating axles and it only ever clunked once after pulling away from a stop on a hill. You'll be just fine :thumbsup:
Matt |
Thanks Matt!
Data points like that, (your 8K miles, and Payton's 4.5K) are great to have. |
A little update again, since I've managed to get a few things done here and there.
Mounted up the radiator and intercooler. These pics will look quite familiar to Scott and Jody, LOL. I still have to order my Vintage Air stuff and get my condenser mounted as well. http://inlinethumb11.webshots.com/47...600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/47...600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/48...600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb13.webshots.com/46...600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/49...600x600Q85.jpg The RS headlight doors won't hinge open all the way due to the intercooler but I already knew that issue was coming. I am going to fab up a mount for the door faces so that they can be popped in/out. http://inlinethumb36.webshots.com/48...600x600Q85.jpg Made up some closeout panels out of 6061 sheet for the fenders where the 4" tubing will pass through to the air filters. They still need fine tuning and bead rolling but, you get the idea. http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/45...600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/45...600x600Q85.jpg I decided to run a wilwood pedal assembly w/balance bar and the small masters, so I made a 3/16" plate mount/panel for that, and sank it into the firewall. It's just tacked in place for now. http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/46...600x600Q85.jpg For the bottom section I made a plate as well. The lower section is sank (sunk?) into the firewall about 3/8" further than the top section. Once I measured the angle of the dangle, I jigged up the plate and bored an angled hole through it. I found some nice SS tubing with an ID a tick over 2", so the column tube is a nice slip fit inside. I am going to drill and tap the tube for some set screws, and also cut a 3/32" groove into the ID of the tube at the lower end, to receive an o-ring to keep any water/dirt from getting into the tube. http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/46...600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/46...600x600Q85.jpg Well, that's about all for now. time to clean up. -Rob http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/15...600x600Q85.jpg |
Really like that last picture. Super clean car coming together in a super clean space. :thumbsup:
Cool to see you making good progress again. |
Nice progress, love the shop too! I drool every time I drive by your place. :)
|
Quote:
Great update Rob. Your plan is falling together nicely and that innercooler looks right at home...:thumbsup: |
Very nice. Great to see the updates. Looks like a great build.
|
Rob,Look's great.:thumbsup:
|
Wow that's some good looking fab work, Rob!
|
Nice progress.
|
That last shot is my favorite. Makes me just want to walk in and start giving you a hand.
Have you decided on the exact color yet, Rob? |
Nice Rob! Now I'll share something I've learned... it's taken me a long time... because of an extra thick skull...
People lie... There are no elves that come out at night and build stuff while you're sleeping.:D |
Looking great Rob! I like the intercooler and how you set everything up. Thats a lot of stuff to cram together under the hood. But it all looks really good so far.
|
I almost forgot about the little detail work on the column coming out of the firewall, etc. Love those little touches.
Just read about the headlight issue. Are you thinking of running HIDs. If you are, you might be able to keep the doors closed and still have enough light. It almost works for me, but the halogens from DSE aren't quite bright enough. Matt |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
The beer is always ready Scott! I have been all over the place on color choice. Whatever it winds up being, it will probably be a bright color. I had Ben do a few different renderings for me in a bright solid (nonmetallic) blue. I dunno, other days I like yellow, LOL. We'll see. http://inlinethumb02.webshots.com/46...600x600Q85.jpg |
:beavis: :beavis: :beavis: :yes:
Quote:
|
looking good! Like the bowtie on the shop floor :thumbsup:
|
Quote:
|
Finally some real progress!!! Looks great..... Nice work
|
Here are a couple of pics with the pedal assembly and the masters mocked up. I might decide to go with the smaller format master cylinders which use the separate reservoirs....and the CV billet reservoirs, just because they look so much cooler than these.
Anyway, in case it helps anyone doing the same kind of thing...early in the process, and luckily, before any sparks flew, I found that, in order to position the whole shebang so that it would both clear the valve cover, AND allow the valve cover to be removed, that would make the brake pedal arm hit the column. Great. So in order to fix that, I had to modify the brake pedal arm to put an offset into it, to move it about 3/4" toward the tunnel. Of course, this moved the two pedal pads further apart, but I don't think it's going to amount to much, in terms of driving the car. I also still need to make a couple of supports to tie the pedal assembly into the metal directly above it. The whole thing protrudes from the firewall by about 5.5" http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/48...600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb05.webshots.com/49...600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/35...600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/45...600x600Q85.jpg |
Quote:
Ryan, Thanks for those pics. Dang, those HIDs certainly look bright enough, even through the RS doors. Which HID system / vendor did you use? |
Quote:
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=10173 |
The pedals look awesome.
One thing you are going to want to check, double check and check again is pedal length. Mine were high even though we thought they would be good once the carpet was installed. I know of a couple other cars out there that had the same problem. My suggestion is get a chunk of the factory carpet, jute and anything else you plan to put on your floor and make sure they are correct. The guys from www.bruningautodesign.com made a custom pedal arm on one of there projects to get it to the correct spot. Or I can send you the cad files for a billet version ( 1.5" longer then stock ) |
Thanks Marty!
That is a really good point, I tried to get the pedal pads as close as possible to the stock position, height-wise. I don't have my seats yet, so really can't "test-drive" them, But i know what you mean about he position being important. If it turns out that I need to lengthen or shorten them, that's what I'll need to do....Thank you for the offer on the cad files for the billet pedal arms, Dang, those sure would look sweet... Now you've got me lusting after those, dammit. Thanks a lot! :willy: |
Quote:
|
Nice update Rob! I love how it looks in the last pic....its coming along nicely! I really like the rendering too!
|
Do have a pic of the CV products m/c?
|
Quote:
CV also makes a three across "bar" to mate three of their reservoir tanks to three wilwood masters. https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...light=blu+balz |
Well, I called up my nephew in Mooresville who works for a Nationwide team and he is going to send me three of the CV reservoirs.... So it looks like I am going to be replacing my masters now, LOL.
http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/46...600x600Q85.jpg |
That mount on the firewall is a good idea Rob. Puts a liitle meat back in the firewall and those CV res. are very nice pieces, those will look / work perfect with your set up. Nice job.
|
Rob- I hope you don't mind..
I did the Wilwood M/C with my own reservoirs on a Chevelle I had here @ the shop.. Did the same thing you did on the plate for the pedals but machined mine with a 1/2 radius & wrapped it .. The Wilwood M/C have a funny thread on them.. when first designed.. they were not thinking we would want threaded reservoirs on them.. Wilwood now offers them threaded with a fitting for a -3 flexline.. I have done C/V reservoirs on the a Wilwood M/C.. I chucked them on a lathe & machined the threads.. The reason I do my own reservoirs is because we properly vent them.. I did not really like the way C/V did theirs.. JUst my preference of doing thinks.. Hope this info. helps Rob.. http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMG_0988.jpg http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/P1010005.jpg Quote:
|
Thanks Cris, that is good info, much appreciated! Your fab work is just beautiful. You mentioned that wilwood now sells them with a threaded female boss for the reservoir, do you happen to know if that thread size is the same as the male on the CV reservoirs?
|
The fitting that is included in a Wilwood threaded M/C is is specific to the thread on the M/C & then to a -3 AN male ..
If you want to fit CV's on the Wilwood M/C.. You will have to machine the thread to match the Wilwood M/C & make sure you use a EPR o-ring.. I have very little experience with Wilwood components.. I only worked their for 10 yrs! Quote:
|
Thanks Cris, looks like I will either do that or use the adapter made by CV.
|
Great updates. These reservoirs look awesome.
|
any updates?
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:40 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net