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Nice rims- what size are they? Who makes them?
Geno |
After a few design changes, I have come up with a cross member for 75-81 f-bodys to support the T56 transmission. This is how the prototype looks installed. Working with friends of the trade, I was able to construct one for quite a bit les than machine shops which is understandable. Each prototype would be about $850 if I had production shop do one off pieces. This price goes down dramatically as quantity increases. The engine retains its 3 degree rearward pitch as well as the factory ¾” offset centerline to the passenger’s side of the car. Other advances in construction include the 3.5” aluminum driveshaft and working with RARE to find a solutions to the muffler-Watts links interference issue. Paul and I have settled on a solution and are waiting to here back from Spintech. Since I will going away during the middle of June to Southern California and TJ (to see a donkey show), I figured it would be wise to have the car painted during that time to keep a forward momentum. I have begun wet sanding the body with 320, 400 then 600. I enjoy mechanical and fabrication work a lot more than body work. Hopefully I can finish the body before I leave, we’ll see what happens.
Parts w/ guide coat waiting to be wet sanded http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/PICT3382.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...etsanding2.jpg wet sanding http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...etsanding1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...wetsanding.jpg |
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After 17 years of combustionless life, fuel, air & heat have once again been successfully mixed in the cylinders as approx 5 PM this evening. All seems strong and very healthy. Running just headers, the exhaust note is felt in the stomach. Didn't run it too long as the cooling system is dry.
After some waiting for parts, deciding and ordering parts, defeating some walls & hurdles build by life, and other what nots, I have jumped on this fellow once again. Fuel system is complete with 4th gen F-body fuel pump & sender integrated into stock 2nd gen tank. the bulk of the electrical system is completed or at least laid out. I still need to setup the elec fan units and make the relay box for current components and future expansion. Battery is located in the trunk and I was able to feed the 1/0 cable through the frame for a clean look. I found an asphalt sheathing used on antique autos that slid over the cable to prevent wear and corrosion even though the cable has a fairly thick rubber insulation already. Once all the electrical components are inplace and wiring laid, I will tidy up the wiring for a clean look. pics are coming. |
Sweet! I am doing a 2nd Gen TA myself. That is a beautiful car!
Who made the transmission crossmember? Also the oval exhaust? |
Sweet ASSSS build ! good luck!
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Awesome that you've gotten to the point of firing it up! I'd been watching the thread a long time ago thinking "Wow that looks so nice under there, I'm never posting pics showing the underside of my car! " LOL Glad to see you're back on it.
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thanks for the welcome back. been a long while.
John - one day we may meet at an open road event...one day perhaps. Your ride rocks, the Porsche too. correct, the x-member is one that I have designed specifically for the 75-81 f body cars. the exhaust is from RARE. |
Got another 78 T/A I was resurrecting on its feet and out the door. Time for this fellow to get some lovin'. While the original electrical system functioned, it wasn't pretty. It didn't flow well either. I also wanted to add some circuits & simplify some circuits as well. Also wanted to have relays. Something present in 1978, but not widely used like todays cars.
Some Circuits I added/ altered: -In-tank fuel pump from 4th gen and 14 GA wire from pump to relay -integrate O2 ECU into Projection 4 ECU -Add triple stage lighting system. not sure if I will like it, we'll see. [outer lamps have high and low, stage 1 & 2. inner lamps are super high (100 W H1) , stage 3)] each high has its own relay and switch. Used a 79-81 column activated switch for one and the stock floor mounted switch for the other. -Spal dual electric fans w/ module -Mallory Unilight dist and E-coil - relocate all A/C relays and electrics to pass side of evaporator box. A big issue I had was where to affix the relay box, coil and modules so they would not look cluttered, yet be accessible. For now, I decided not use the stock cruse vacuum unit. may relocated or find a better solution in the future. Stock electronics and controls are still on car and not in the way. the driver's firewall under the fender provided a nice place for the 93-97 f body relay box and fan controls. I liked this box as it is simple, compact and has room to grow w/o have excess. thanks to forum member TnBlkC230WZ, I was able to locate the proper terminals for the box as well as other components in my system. Mouser.com has what you need, you just need to know what it is you need. I modified the stock late model f-body relay box bracket to suit my needs and locate the box some the fuses and relays would be accessible w/ the fender on the car. I can even affix a mini Mag light behind the box and the firewall if needed. or a place to 'stash' stuff'.:idea: the fan modules can be accessed from the top w/ the fender installed. its tight , but will work. Backing up a little, I had gotten the car to run and a roughly laid out wiring harness and jumper cables to test the circuits. I took that down and cleaned the rats nest up and tried to hide it as much as possible. Ordered some wire braid from painless and order more from their supplier which is 12 minutes from my house. buy direct and $ave. :). wirecare.com is the retail outlet. good stuff. with the newly critiqued wiring and component installation, it was time to see if all systems still functioned. Sure enough, all is well. Took the stock HEI out and put in the unilight and hooded up the coil and receive no spark...booo:doh: I noticed the E-coil getting warm so I unplugged it w/ the batter to let it cool and tried again. no spark. after some test, I am looking at what could be a faulty module. this unit I bought used from a friend for 40 so I am am still ahead of the game if it is bad. It has the E-spark in it . may replace w/ basic unilight if it test bad. need to beatify teh T56 harness and wire the Cable X to complete the electrical system for now. I have to add the braid to the wires yet Some pictures of the relay box area. 93-97 F body box http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...reawiring5.jpg starting some wiring http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...reawiring6.jpg test fitting on bracket http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...reawiring2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...reawiring1.jpg some wiring http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...reawiring7.jpg connecting box to body wiring http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...eawiring10.jpg El fin http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ing13-Copy.jpg not sure what to do w/ the extra fan wires. they are not used or optional. I'll prob cut them and cap them. the positive terminal will get a protective cap to prevent shorts. I am also drafting a new wiring diagram from the car as a bunch has changed. using Autocad and scanned original diagrams. I will have a completely digital wiring diagram for this car when I am done. will keep it w/ the car for future reference. I tried to keep the wire colors meaning full such as: red - batter direct, yellow - battery hot after fuse, orange - ign hot..ect... |
After much crimping, splicing and cutting;, I can say I am happy with the wiring and can scratch it off the list. Tried hiding the wires that best I could while keeping it functional. The whole engine harness can be easily removed from the car if needed. T56 and Cable X wiring harness is done san obtaining a 12 to 5 V voltage reducer to run the Viper VSS. Looking at the left-overs, I have good amount of spares. Being terminals and connectors are relatively inexpensive, I would rather order extra than need 1 or 2 at the end of the project. I left the wiper and cruise control wiring in stock state as I am not sure if I will use the cruise and/ or install a newer wiper motor.
Next on the list is finish wet sanding at 400 and 600 grit and off to the body shop for paint. Have a few other little tid bits I’ll complete as well. Pictures of Finished Wiring before and after looming (is that a word??) Note: Hoses and alt are mock ups. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ineWiring4.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ineWiring3.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...neWiring21.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...neWiring11.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...neWiring12.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ineWiring9.jpg |
7/1/2010
Finished wet sanding the entire body and all the flexible parts. Did 3 sandings at 320, 400 and 600 (body only) checking for lows and highs in each step. The parts really look very smooth. I did the body up to 600 when we were planning on using one brand of sealer (next step), but we found a different brand that flows so nice, you only need to go to 400 grit. the sealer will be applied next and that is wet sanded to 600. The body shop is applying the sealer and taking it home from here. They will apply the color along with the clear and perform all necessary sanding and buffing task. Been a long time coming, but I am excited to get this in color. I need to install the interior as the box that hold the interior parts is falling apart. While the bolt on parts are at the shop now, the car or body will go over next week as I have a couple of quick things wrap up. The parts will be shot tomorrow and allowed to bake and dry over the holiday weekend. Waiting to be sanded w/ 320 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/PICT0372.jpg Blocked w/ 320 and guided coated for 400 grit http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rit6-20101.jpg Finished 400 grit sanding. Seeing all the minute highs and lows always amazes me when doing the fine sandings http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rit6-20101.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rit6-20104.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rit6-20105.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rit6-20101.jpg Even factory fiberglass/ ABS parts have their issues. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rit6-20108.jpg Parts in sealer waiting to be wet sanded with 600 at body shop. They look pretty straight, but I’m sure there are some minor highs and lows hiding. In most cases, it is hard to tell just by rubbing your hand over the area. The high and lows can be seen by wetting the surface w/ prep solvent and watching the reflection of a florescent light at see if it bends or distorts. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...led6-20101.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...led6-20102.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...led6-20106.jpg |
lookin sweet, cant wait to see the paint
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Great pictures. The color of the engine is hot.
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Thanks guys. I'm stoked to see it ion color finally. Been a long time coming. Then its just clean work and installing all the parts that were built, restored or new and have it come together.
Took me much time looking through pages of color chips to find that color. Believe it or not it is a 1971 AMC color. I did funny and forgot the most important parts of the body...the shaker. Have a few in storage, but never took one out and prepped it. that will be done ASAP. Wet sanded bolt ons. factory parts are crap as far as evenness is concerned. Then again, it was the 70's. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ed400grit1.jpg Some more pictures of parts in sealer. Freshly baked. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...led7-6-101.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ed7-6-1010.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...led7-6-109.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...led7-6-106.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...led7-6-105.jpg Junk wheels are back on the car and I will be going over t eh body once more quickly to freshen up the surfaces. Been 1.5yrs since I sanded it to 600 grit. All interior wiring and A/C boxes have been removed. |
Time has come for this fella to do some time in the paint jail. The painter and I went over the car and discussed the following steps and some little things to address. Like the parts, the car will be scuffed with 400 grit then sprayed with Dupont 7740S sealer. The sealer will be wet sanded with 400 grit to smooth any imperfections if any and then its color time. When I started this project, we were going to sand with 600 grit, consequently with chemical engineering improvements, this sealer has a ‘healing’ property that actually fills in sanding marks as it cures. Thus saving lots of time and money. So far, all the parts that I sanded and they sealed have needed only a quick blocking. I guess I am getting better at this body work art. I still prefer to fabricate or mechanically build something than wet sand. Paint should be on the car within the next 2 weeks and I should have it back mid august. No rush on my end as it wont be done for any shows or events this year. Allows time for sorting all the bugs out. I have a list of things that I can do while the car is in paint jail.
After power washing the body to clean off sanding residue http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...vforpaint1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...vforpaint3.jpg Surrounded 1970 german things (Bug and 911). http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...vforpaint7.jpg Leaving for Paint Jail http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...il7-16-103.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...il7-16-104.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...il7-16-105.jpg At Paint Jail (literally around the block from the shop) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...il7-16-105.jpg Sealed parts wet sanded w/ 400 grit and awaiting color. They look very straight and feel smoother than a baby’s derriere. Hard to tell in the pictures. I am pleased so far. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...sandedw400.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...itdupont-4.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...tdupont774.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...itdupont-1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...itdupont-2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...itdupont-3.jpg |
Looking good!! Did you pick a final paint color?
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I am going with HOK goldmine pearl with airbrushed bird and lettering.
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With the body in sealer and a few small things resolved, its time for a quick blocking and off to paint. I am not sure how I like the bedliner in the trunk yet. I doesn’t look to bad and will dampen the amount of sound that coming into the car. I have a full carpet for the trunk anyhow, so this will be covered. No need to worry about spills or anything damaging the trunk floor with this stuff.
I have designed a fan shroud to hold the radiator and the twin fans. Once I am done with the drafting, it will be sent to get CNC cut and bent to shape. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...nk7-22-101.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...unk7-22-10.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...er7-22-105.jpg Smooth and straight http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...er7-22-109.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...er7-22-108.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...er7-22-107.jpg |
All parts , and 2nd gens have alot of them, have been sealed and wet sanded to 400 grit. This sealer is said to be self healing, meaning it flows as you sand it. Interesting stuff. Def a time saver. Paint booth has fresh filters for this guy. Last few jobs had been heavy primer so it was time for a change anyway. After a few hours of masking, I is time for paint. This color is more of an outside color as it benefits from the reflection of the sun. Metal Halide and Sodium bulbs don’t do much for it. Gold laid down very flat. Needed 4 coats to obtain sufficient coverage. 3 coats of clear followed. Reflects and shines nice now. Next step will be to assemble the car and wet sand the clear with 1000, 1500 and then buff. May do a 2000 grit sanding if needed. Will let it sit for a few weeks before I begin sanding. I will have the air brush artist come and do the bird and lettering. In the mean time. The art work will then be covered with clear.
Car should look nice with the satin black trim installed and gun metal rims. My old camera doesn’t care to take good photos anymore. Colors don’t come out too well. These will have to do for now. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/PICT0384.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/PICT0383.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/PICT0394.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/PICT0405.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/PICT0406.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/PICT0391.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/PICT0398.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/PICT0397.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/PICT0387.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/PICT0386.jpg |
WOW that is some good progress, the paint looks amazing! :thumbsup:
this definitely gives me motivation to work on my late 2nd gen project! |
Nice work! Love the color, I hope your airbrush guy knows what he's doing. Are you still going with two-tone? :cool:
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2 tone has been shelved. couldn't get it to look right. Going with solid at the moment. The 2 tone kept making the car appear tall and not low to the ground.
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It is rather amazing how ‘rough’ clear lays. While it look nice, there is room for improvement. It is just a matter of what one is willing to accept as a finished product. Been enjoying the fun of wet sanding the clear for around 30 hours so far. I have the body, trunk lid, hinge cover, and doors done. I start with 1000 grit and see how ‘rough’ it is afterwards. If it is rough, I go to 800 then back to 1000, go over that with 1500 and then finish with 2000. It is better to go to a courser grit than to press hard with a finer grit. 1500 will buff out, but with some effort. The 2000 allows for easier buffing. You can actually see the color increase in depth the finer you go. The doors have been buffed as well an they look very nice and deep. Tough to do on a metallic color.
Body and parts done up to 2000 grit. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...o2000grit8.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...o2000grit5.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...grit10-268.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...grit10-261.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...grit10-264.jpg Buffed door http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...door10-252.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...door10-254.jpg |
Wow, that is looking really great! :hail:
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Body, bumpers and some small parts are buffed. Some of the smalls had to be resprayed, but all good now. Waiting for the air brush artist to get his design together so I can finish the hood & fenders. Paint has an incredible shine and depth to it considering the color. cleaning will start next week. That ought to be fun. Hopefully I may begin assembly.
Interior is in the works, I will have to redye the interior again to match. The original Camel Tan does not jive well with this color. May even wrap that plastics in leather. I’d use distressed pieces I have laying around than cover nice originals. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d1-13-1110.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ed1-13-111.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ed1-13-112.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ed1-13-114.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ed1-13-115.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ed1-13-113.jpg I see a 1st gen http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ed1-13-116.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ed1-13-119.jpg |
Very nice. Paint looks killer.:cheers:
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Moving along on assembly. Trunk lid and doors are installed and aligned. Spending extra time during the earlier body work stages paid off as both doors were aligned and installed in less than 1 hour. Use the guide holes I drilled to assist and confirm. Dissembled, cleaned, painted and polished the tail lights. Most of the electrical is installed sans the main interior harness which attaches to the dash. Not sure if I’ll run speakers in the doors, so I ran wiring to the doors just incase. Began installation of the window mechanisms. All tracks and motors were cleaned and lubed. New door lock actuators will be installed along with new glass. Leaning towards the smoke tint glass vs the green tint. Just need to see if I can get the rear window tinted to match. Picked up key fob door and trunk remote popper. That will get wired once the mechanicals are done as I have some minor electrical work to finish anyway.
Debating on which T top weather stripping to use. The original GM are in decent condition and fit well, but show their age in some areas. I know there from the late 80’s vintage. Tried a set of Metro seals and while the look nice, fit is so-so. Being that is not critical at the moment, I’ll work with them before gluing them. Working on adapting a 3rd gen steering column and a modern wiper motor. The wiper motor will fit w/ an adaptor plate, however, getting the variable speeds to work with the stock switch is an issue w/ adding a resistor block. I am hoping the 3rd gen switch resistances are favorable to the new motor. Working with an old model kit to design the interior color scheme. Seats will be ordered soon. I want to retain a tan interior, but will most likely have some black accents to mesh with the exterior color. The stock Camel tan looks like puke against the Goldmine Pearl. Next on the list: 1) finish installing window mechanisms, power locks and door moldings 2) Install new leaf springs. Original ones arched too much during sitting uninstalled and powdercoating. New ones have a stiffer spring rate to match the front springs and overall suspension design. 3) Remove ‘roller’ wheels and install good wheels along with brakes. Plan to have this done this week. 4) Get airbrush artist to finish up design and paint bird and lettering. Cant hang fenders, hood or rear spoiler until that is done. I like his work and hate to change artist. Luckily no money has been spent. He gets paid once it is finished. Lights Before and after blasting http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ightresto1.jpg Painted & polished http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ightresto4.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ightresto8.jpg Staring to look like a car http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...installed1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...installed4.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...installed6.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...installed1.jpg Hinges do not actually reveal any grey sealer, but the camera picks it up. Most likely, while there is color there, it is thin and the characteristics of HOK paints. It will be touched up if needed before the fenders are installed. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...installed2.jpg |
The paint looks beautiful. Don't you love it when your hard work pays you back ten fold. Nice work.
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looking good!!
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Assembled the door internals sans glass as that is coming. Going with a nice smoke tint as opposed to the stock green tint. Accomplished a bunch of little odds and ends and man do they take up time. Even more so when new parts are ‘direct fit’. Old leafs (Rancho Challenger GT III) were replaces w/ Comp leafs from Pro Touring Fbody. Not only had the old leaf’s arch increased due to the exposed heat from powder coating, they are a little ‘soft’ for the front spring rate and car’s power. The new leafs were not much more than rearching the Ranchos and have an increased spring rate. Left the shackles loose for now to allow for settling and prevent binding. Car sits a little high in the rear at the moment, but it did settle about 0.5” since they were installed. Not concerned yet. Will wait till after more items are installed and some miles are put on the new suspension. Finished up the brakes and installed the good wheels. This car is taking shape and looking good. Have a list of odds and ends to do in the next few days. Mainly waiting to finalize interior fabric colors and finalize art work(hood bird and lettering). At that point, I can redye the interior and installed the rest of the sheet metal. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...fsandrims7.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...fsandrims6.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...fsandrims4.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...fsandrims2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...fsandrims9.jpg |
Completed a bunch of little things. Reworked the inner wheel wells to provide tire clearance. while cutting is the easy way, I decided to do some metal working w/ hammer and dolly. About 3hrs/ side, but they cam out nice and I dont have to worry about road debris in the engine bay. Also modified the front of the wheel wells and radiator support for the brake cooling hose. I didn't like the brake lines from the m/c so new ones were bent. I'll be ordering some new glass and start searching for GM T top weatherstripping. The ones I have are better for a driver and the Metro seal has issues. Once I get the rad support and wheel wells back from powdercoating, I 'll spend some more time on the car. I need to catch up on other jobs in the meantime.
Coming close to finalizing a design w/ the airbrush artist as well as interior color arrangement. I'll be glad to have these 2 major things done out of the way as they are holding things up. If I want to drive the car any distance this season, I need to plenty of time to work out the bugs. |
After clearing over the lettering, sanding and buffing, the front end was ready to be assembled. Had some help aligning the fenders. Even though they were test fit, they did not fit perfectly into place at first. While the radiator support is a different one then used for fitting, that didn’t seem to be the issue. After some time and carefully caressing the fender into place, success was achieved. I do have a clearance issue w/ the inner wheel well that can be massaged rather easily. Happens with design changes in the later stages of the build. At the end of the day, it looks like a car again. Just need to align the hood. The hood will then be removed and sent to the artist for the bird.
Interior is stated to be completed this week or so. Glass will probably go in shortly. Spoiler http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_0976.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...n5-20-1119.jpg Honeycomb fender vents http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...n5-20-1120.jpg Straight & gapped http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...n5-20-1111.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...n5-20-1110.jpg Beak http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...n5-20-1113.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...on5-20-119.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...on5-20-112.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...on5-20-114.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...n5-20-1112.jpg |
Been a while since an update. Car is back at my place. Picked it up early August.
First order was to finish the electrical system which included relays in the window circuit, key fob for door locks and trunk popper, stereo and some misc items. I will need to add relays to the door lock from the auto key fob system as it does not have the power to energize the electromechanical motors. I just got the stereo system and need to lay the wires for that next. I went with CDT for speakers and JL for the amp. That amp cost as much as the speakers and head unit combined. Geez!!! Made some misc brackets and found some clever solutions for fastening the bumper covers aside from the stock rivets. Air brusher has the bird about 1/2 done. There is an area that caught my eye, but will wait unit till it is finished to decide if it needs to be addressed. Currently redying the interior to black from tan and finishing the stereo layout. One day it will run...at least that it what I keep telling myself. 10/17/11 Got some problem things out of the way finally. Been having trouble w/ dying the interior w/ the humidity along with material issues (paint) and the steering column. Some dry days after months of endless rain yielded good dying results and I tried different products w/ the column and it came out decent. Probably have close to 22 hrs in that bastard. It still may find its way into the river if it continues to piss me off. On a happier note, the dash is in place w/ the wiring attached as per factory. Speaker wire is installed awaiting final trimming once speakers are installed. To complete this section of the build I need to accomplish the following: make holder for dash speakers run amplifier signal wires permanently attach dash Install steering column should it not find its way into the river. Wire radio (3 wires) check auto/ remote lock to see if relays are needed. I was informed the Bulldog unit does not have the power to operate the stock locks actuators. Install interior & stereo components At that point, I should be pretty much done electrically and most of the interior. Car should fire once again and I can attack the 'little's' to make it drivable. Time is one of my biggest enemies thus when simple items (rebuild and paint steering column) take way longer than expected for BS reasons, it really irks me. Its all part of the fun of the hobby. 10/31/11 We are up an running again!!!!! all interior is redyed, steering column resolved, made speaker holder for the front 3" & 1" tweeters. looks like an Owl mask...kinda funny. Dash is installed along w/ A/C controls. need to finish a few look wiring odds and ends and that will be done. that will be next along with testing all the electrical systems before I button everything up. I am very happy to hear the engine again since I redid a lot of the electrical systems for the ECU and added a bunch of circuit protectors (relays & fuses ). I guess I did a good job. I'll try to get some pics up. most of my free time is occupied by working on the car. Much of the items really aren’t going to show well in pictures. Here are some that do. The F’n column…succeed we did. Took it apart 10 yrs ago so I started with this… http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...mnrebuild1.jpg Everything inside a tilt column http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...mnrebuild5.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...mnrebuild4.jpg Assembly http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...nrebuild22.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...nrebuild23.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...nrebuild26.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...nrebuild27.jpg Done. Well we’ll just say this is what it looks like done. Had some paint issues which resulted in a tear down and reassembly in brief. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...nrebuild30.jpg Had some nice tan interior panels, but since the stock tan clashes w/ the exterior color, I switched to black. Redyed black parts http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...kinterior1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...kinterior2.jpg Since the stock speaker bracket is good for a 10 x 4, it was not adequate for the new 3” & 1” component setup. So we start with these things… http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...speakers10.jpg Add some welding, grinding and paint to make this… Looks like and Owl face.. hooo hooo http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...speakers14.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...spkrsdone1.jpg The middle air duct and Right speaker were to tight so we take these… http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...tspeakers2.jpg Add some of this http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...tspeakers6.jpg |
To make a mess like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...tspeakers7.jpg No more interference. I could have taken more time to make it look pretty, but since there is no way to see it once installed, this will be fine and function. Wired backside of dash http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ashwiring2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ashwiring1.jpg All the above installed http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d10-30-113.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d10-30-111.jpg Need to tidy up a few minor things, finished stereo system and test electrical circuits then the interior goes in. Teaser of interior http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...seatteaser.jpg |
Very nice! I'm not sure how I missed your May update but I did. The car looks fantastic. Good luck finishing it up.
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79 Shell
TAKID, you said you had a solid 79 t-top shell, was wondering if you still had it, price, and location, and if you still wanted to sell it. I have a 78 and there is plenty of rust work that i am having to do since it has been sitting for a long time and starting with a good shell would be a time saver, Thanks
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Another gold T/A, love these cars when they are not black. Have the rest of the interior been put in?
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The only 2 years of T/A I like 77/78...Love the car man, I am a Mopar guy thru and thru but I could own one of those.
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Took a break from the car as another project took priority. Gathers some need items during that period. Cracked the valve and lit the burner just before the holidays and turned the flame up. The bulk of work has been with the electrical and stereo systems. Painted and designed some other items along with picking up the interior and will be picking up the hood from the artist tomorrow (1/23/12).
Electrical: Mainly testing and trouble shooting all the systems on the car prior to concealing them. Most have been good, others such as the automatic locks (Bulldog) have been a PITA. All is good except for the lock function which does not seem to be getting able power. I even have the system relayed. Moved on as I can access it later. While testing , the pass window motor it not quite up to par, and will be replaced. Wired up the console switches for various functions and well as the voltage reducer for the Cable X. That’s about it there. Stereo Installed all components and now have some bumpin in my trunk. WOOT!! CDT speakers have very crisp , clear sound. Making a tray/ mount for the amp and x-overs in the truck and having a sub box made to fit the floor. Glass Custom Smoke tinted glass installed. Looks sweet Interior Picked up interior which is ready to be installed Body Air brusher has finally finished the bird . cant wait to see it finished. Grilles installed, moldings painted, stuff Suspension I have been rather torn whether to allow the hubs to stick through the wheels or make custom hub caps. I know of a solution, but wasn’t 100% tested until recently. At least on 2nd gens w/o being ‘rigged’. While not cheap, I picked up a set of ATS spindles for a 2nd gen and will order t eh steering arms and now I have resolved the ugly hub issue. Costly, but its something that bothered me. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Sspindles1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Sspindles4.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Sspindles2.jpg Test panel for feathers http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...e/IMG_1951.jpg Big progress to follow in the next few weeks. |
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