Looks like an Awesome project.

I have an odd thought (which isn't strange for me). I really think that you should somehow figure out how to incorporate some pink into the graphic / color seperation bar. I think it would cool to way to pay tribute to the car and it's heritage. Plus it's history for your Grandparents.

ps - you've already got the blue know your just need the pink in there

maybe you could paint the exterior of the car blue, and just do some very slight powder pink accents in the engine bay.. like annodize the fuel rails, or valve covers or something?

OR just paint the car pink! there are some pretty badass pink cars!
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member.../2290239_1.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e3...23/MF4M104.jpg

http://www.1-18scalecars.com/Porsche...nt_quarter.jpg

So we have new goodies at the shop. The guys at LG Motorsports drop shipped a set of their C5/C6 Corvette spindle brake ducts. We will be adding them in place of the wheel speed sensor bracket on our forged aluminum AFX spindles. The only issue we had was that during our engineering process of making the AFX spindle we needed to rotate the forged in brake bracket so we could tie it into a fillet gusset while adding about 50% more material to it to eliminate brake flex. This makes the cut of the duct interfere with the upper brake bracket hole due to our redesign. No big deal, the bolts go in from the back side anyways.

Here are the spindles as we test assembled them with the 1/2"x20x3" long ARP stud upgrade. Hope to have this stuff out to you in the morning True!

http://i37.tinypic.com/2mnq3x3.jpg

http://i36.tinypic.com/2h6ca5c.jpg

http://i34.tinypic.com/2ltrcc0.jpg

http://i37.tinypic.com/2ef0y1s.jpg

http://i33.tinypic.com/357j76p.jpg

Tyler

Note to self:

Order axles that are compatible with BIG ASS WHEEL STUDS!

?????

Different size wheel studs front/rear = no bueno :thmbsdwn:

oh, all axles can be drilled and same studs pressed in, but good point its something easily over looked, and is much easier/cheaper to buy them with them installed
looks great

As stated, the next step is to install the ATS double shear coilover bracket. I've gotten the sense from some that this is percieved as a difficult task. I mean, it's one thing for Tyler to install these in his shop with a bunch of quality tools and equipment but perhaps another for someone to do at home. Tyler bills this thing as an easy to install upgrade. Well.....let's see.

Here is the bracket:

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3370.jpg

A darned robust little item if I do say so. 1/4" steel plate (how do you bend this stuff?) nicely mig welded into an assembly that I'm pretty sure could support the weight of the car a couple times over.

I have at my disposal a small Kobalt air compressor and cutoff tool. A cheap Sears Craftsman grinder (with cutoff, grinder, wire and flap-disk wheels), a sawzall, a Miller 175 welder and a little something I borrowed from work that we'll get to later. By no means professional quality stuff. IMO your basic homebrew fab tools.

Since this the install is done twice (left side and right) I've decided to examine two different ways of accomplishing the task.

Here is what we start with:

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3393.jpg

The sandblasted subframe and it's OE single shear shock mount and upper control mount.

The first step is to remove the single shear shock mount. At first I tried using the pneumatic cutoff tool......lesson learned here. Cheap air compressors and pneumatic tools are just that....cheap. The $200 compressor from Lowes (Kobalt brand) just does not have the ooomph to handle this. It couldn't keep up with the cuttoff tool. So I switched to ol' reliable. Sears.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3439.jpg

The Craftsman grinder with a 4.5" cuttoff wheel made quick work of the shock mount.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3446.jpg

But it does leave a lot of material behind. The lap-welded portion on the subframe arm partially surrounding the spring pocket and the portion still attached to the UCA mount need to be cleaned up.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3451.jpg

No worries...I am using both hands on the grinder (with eye and ear protection). My wife leaned over my shoulder with the camera to take the photo.

Still grinding away the mess

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3364.jpg

Getting rid of the last of the junk attached to the UCA mount

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3455.jpg

.....and finally all cleaned up.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3453.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3458.jpg

The next step is to remove a portion of the spring pocket. This will open up the top of the subrame and allow enough room for the coilover to pass through to the bracket after we attach it.

You'll need to open this up to roughly 4 inches in diameter. I went a little wider for an extra margin of clearance for the shock/spring. You can see the red line guiding my cut below.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3380.jpg

Again I tried the pneumatic cuttoff tool. Again I was dissapointed. So I tried an alternate method. I used the sawzall to take small pie cuts out of the material. Sorta nibbling away at it until the hole was "mostly round" then finished it with a grinder. No pictures of the middle of the process here.......it was ugly. But once cleaned up with the grinder it looks fine.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3394.jpg

I also took the time at this point to add a little extra weld to the UCA brackets. Nearly impossible to get that joint in there clean and it's tough to get the torch close enough for good puddle control and see what you are doing. The welds reflect that but they are fully penetrated.....just ugly.

On the other side I decided to try something different to see if the process could be sped up a bit and improve the quality. It involved a slightly more sophisticated tool than the sawzall.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...CIMG3492-1.jpg

Boy do I like this thing!

Where it took me nearly an hour to cut away the other spring pocket with the sawzall bit by bit, the plasma cutter did the job in about 45 seconds leaving a muuuuuch nicer hole...

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...CIMG3497-1.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...CIMG3495-1.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...CIMG3498-1.jpg

....and with far less cleanup with the grinder required as well. All told a much better result with the plasma.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...CIMG3499-1.jpg

The next step is to begin trial fitting the coil over bracket to the UCA mount. Now remember, we are dealing with a 40 year old car. Tolerances on these things when built were shall we say........loose. The bracket will have to be trimmed here and there to fit.

Here is the bracket as delivered. You can see that the gaps around the bracket are big.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3387.jpg

You'll have to nip away at the c/o bracket and perhaps the UCA bracket some to get your joints tight enough to weld and to locate your shock in the hole such that the spring perch or spring wont make contact with the subframe. There is no sense in me describing where you'll have to trim he bracket as it will be different on your car. It was different on mine from left side to right.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3390.jpg

.

....and after considerable trimming

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3532.jpg

Yes I know the shock is upside down. The adjustable perch is slightly larger than the fixed one and I assumed closer to the OD of the spring.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3534.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3536.jpg

Again, YMMV on the trimming required. This is just what had to happen to get it to fit up nicely on MY particular subframe. It isn't hard. Just time consuming. You grind a little, then test. Rinse and repeat until you get a nice fit then tack the sucker in place.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3535.jpg

Then weld it up...
http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3539.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3537.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3541.jpg

Still pretty messy with spatter and the goo from the flux-core wire but it got late and I needed dinner. Now it's even later and I need to go to bed, so more tomorrow if I get home from work early enough to work on it.

Thanks for watching.......

love seeing the flux-core at work. Gonna be a really awesome car from the sound of things. Keep it up.

Ok, brief update.

Topic: Fitting new suspension bits on 40 year old subframes.



As previously mentioned, the tolerances on 40 year old cars are......not good. You saw above how fitting of the ATS coil over brackets required widely disparate adjustments to the brackets to get them to fit in the UCA mount stands. The brackets were identical, the mount stands.....not so much. I guess that explains the goofy mix of alignment shims that were in the car when I disassembled it.

So the new challenge is fitting the Speed-Tech lower control arms. I attempted to test-fit them prior to painting the subframe. To say that they required "persuasion" would be a gross understatement. I thought for a second that I had gotten arms for the wrong year Camaro. I measured everything, twice and it wasn't the arms. It was the LCA mount pockets. They varied in width by as much as 3/16" and the angles relative to each other were off as well.

I spoke to Blake at Speed-Tech about this and his reply was that this was fairly common. Though more common in LA vs Norwood cars.

His suggestion:

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3553.jpg

A 4" length of 1/2" all-thread
Two 1/2" nuts
Two fat washers

This nifty little device is used to "adjust" the width of the LCA mount pockets so that the LCA bushings will slip into place. Like so:

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3551.jpg

The end result is that the LCA now slips easily into place w/o the need to force, sweat, curse, cajole or grab a BFH to get it in place.

The subframe and core support are now painted. I have a few more photos to take and I'll post an update on that and a more complete review of the Eastwood products in a couple of days.....maybe tonight....depends on what my wife has planned for me after work.

whad i tell ya........ haha thank for posting that now i can add it to our instructions. hahaha that should cut down on a few phone calls

That's pretty clever. Was there any heating involved or did you just crank it by hand and the pockets bent it just fine?

Very cool little easy fix!

Thanks for posting all the pic's. Keep them coming.

That is a neat trick, you should send it into PHR.

I've used a porta-power hydraulic tool to open them up but that is simpler and no special tools required. Nice :thumbsup:

Thought about it, and had a torch at the ready but I didn't seem to need it. YMMV.

Good point though and I'd recommend that someone be prepared to apply a little thermal assistance.

Camaro Performers is free to use the tech-tip.

Well, I couldn't get to an update last night. Had to go buy a new mattress last night. Those things have gotten EXPENSIVE!

Anyway....

Topics: Subframe and Core Support Paint, review of Eastwood products and installation of DSE subframe mounts.

So here is what we began with on the subframe. 40 years of gunk, thankfully no rust though.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3258.jpg

A bit of time spent with the wire brush prior to sandblasting allowed me to inspect for cracks to make sure the subframe was still useful.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3260.jpg

I did find a couple of cracks in the welds surrounding the Upper Control arm mount stands so if you are going this route check there first. Pretty simple though to grind out the old weld and into the substrate a bit to find fresh steel and re-weld it. YMMV of course.

After sandblasting and all the welding I've outlined previously the material on the subframe looked like this.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3363.jpg

and the core support (also sandblasted) looked like this...

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3589.jpg

Hindsight being 20/20 I should have painted the core support as soon as I got it back from the sandblaster. It would have saved me some time. It sat for a few weeks and developed a bit of surface rust. Nothing bad at all, but it cost me some wire-wheel time that I would have preferred to spend in other ways. Oh well, it's an opportunity to further evaluate the Eastwood stuff right? I'll keep telling myself that.

So....on to the Eastwood stuff. I ordered the following material from Eastwood:

- "Pre" surface cleaner/degreaser
- Eastwood "Rust Converter"
- Eastwood "Rust Encapsulator"
- Eastwood "Chassis Black" (gloss)
- Eastwood "Underhood Black" (satin)
- One of those "Can-gun" gizmos

Really easy to order from them. I used their online ordering this time and it was pretty painless. I have ordered by phone from them as well and it went well too. You get a confirmation email with tracking number so you know when the stuff will arrive.

After calling them for more info about the rust treatment products I felt that I didn't have any rust that I felt worthy of using the Rust Converter on. So for these two bits I used the Rust Encapsulator, Chassis Black and Underhood Black only. I have some deeper surface rust in a couple of places that I'll try the Converter on later. Nothing serious though....I may blow it off and just flap-disk it down to fresh steel. We'll see.

Anyway, I am really pleased with the stuff. As I mentioned previously this stuff is better than any rattle-can material I have ever used. The "Rust Encapsulator" was used as a primer and I followed that with the Chassis Black on the subframe and the Underhood Black on the Core Support.

The Encapsulator and Chassis Black cans both have spray nozzles that project the material in a nice, tight 5" fan pattern at the 8"-10" spray distance called out in the instructions. There is really minimal overspray and it's very easy to control where the material goes, especially with the use of the "can-gun". Additionally, it was easy to ensure that enough material was deployed for coverage w/o getting so much as to experience runs.

Overall I am really happy with the result. Yes, a pro with a paint gun could get better results. Nit-pickers will see the occasional bit of dust in the paint. Yup, my garage isn't 100% clean. But this is the subframe and core support on a track/auto-x car. It's more than good enough for me.

So let's have a look at the results:

After two coats of the "Rust Encapsulator" the subframe looked like this...

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3557.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3557.jpg

It lays on shiny when wet but dries to a flat black finish. If you top-coat within 36 hours you can spray right over it. Longer than that and Eastwood recommends a light scuff with 300 grit or a red scotch-brite pad. I wound up having to do both due to time constraints and in each case the top coat turned out pretty darn nice.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3569.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3564.jpg

The flash and the florescent lights in my garage conspire to play hell with the color rendering in a few of these photos so some, like this next one look a bit grey. The surface is a uniform, gloss black though.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3567.jpg

More images per post please. Truncating these posts due to the 5 image limit is a bit of a pain.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3568.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3588.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3585.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3563.jpg

One other thing about the Eastwood stuff.....since the overspray is minimal the dusting of "other stuff" in the garage is nil and the airborne material is minimal as well. There is a bit of "solvent smell", but with the garage door open while spraying it was not oppressive at all and after 1hr was difficult to detect. Good stuff. Especially if your wife has concerns about such things or you have kids or animals around.

....and onto the Core Support.

Again, I coated the Core Support first with the Rust Encapsulator and then the Underhood Black.

The Underhood Black lays out in a nice satin finish. It does not appear to have a porosity though so I'm thinking it will be pretty resistant to the "greasy fingerprint" that some flat/satin finishes are susceptible to. I did accidentally grab the core support with some oil on my hands. I was able to wipe the oil off with a bit of alcohol on a rag. No mark remained.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3638.jpg

And in the following photos you can see the difference between the satin Underhood Black and the gloss Chassis Black.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3632.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3629.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3628.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3624.jpg

....and finally, the installation of the DSE (Detroit Speed & Engineering) solid body bushings.

From DSE:

http://www.detroitspeed.com/images/B...mounts_pic.jpg

http://www.detroitspeed.com/productp...lt_kit_pic.jpg

I opted for the standard height units. A lot of folks go for the 1/2-height but from what I've seen the 1/2-height mounts often cause interferance problems between the transmission and tunnel and between engine and hood if you aren't using a cowl induction hood....which I am not. So full height bushings it is. I don't want the car too low anyway. Real life includes driveways, speed bumps, rough roads and trailer ramps. I'll leave the "slammed" look to the fairgrounds guys.

The install of these things is really dead simple and a one-man job as well provided your back/shoulders will allow you to bench press the subframe. The interlocking bushings install above through the subframe mount pads sandwiching the subframe material and providing a rigid interface between the subframe and the body tub. A bit of anti-seize on the stainless bolts is a good idea.

I installed the bushings and bolts hand tight and pulled the jack out of the way.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3633.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3634.jpg

The next step is to align the subframe to the body tub so that the chassis is square. Also a simple task.

Start by dropping a plum-bob from the aft most mount hole for the lower control arm and make a mark on the garage floor. You can see the red marks here on bits of tape placed on the floor. Repeat this on both the left and right side of the subframe.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3635.jpg

At the rear of the car, just aft and outboard of the forward leaf spring eye is a flanged oval shaped hole. Drop a plum-bob from this point and again, mark the spot on the floor.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3636.jpg

[roadbike, mountain bike and downhill bike gathering dust in the background....they hate me]

Once you have your marks you then measure diagonally between the marks (left-rear to right-front & right-rear to left-front). The values are sure to be different at first which is why I left the body bushing bolts hand-tight above. You'll have to bump, tweak and nudge the subframe around until the measurements are close to or equal. It'll take a few times to get it right but be patient and make small adjustments. Mine came out exactly equal at 90 1/16" from corner to corner.

I compared this to the measurements I took when I disassembled the car. The factory left the differential at 90 3/16" and 89 15/16". A 1/4" out of square condition. I guess that too explains the disparate alignment shim stacks.

I left the bushing at the Core Support hand tight to allow me to nudge it around when I put the bodywork back on the car at a later date.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3632.jpg


Next step will be the installation of the DSE subframe connectors. I'm starting on that tonight so we should have at least a preliminary update to this thread in a few days.

Nice posts - keep up the good work. The subframe looks good!

If you've never cut a big freakin hole in a somewhat valuable car you should try it. It's a rather liberating experience.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3647.jpg

Been quite a while since I've made an update to this thing. I cut the openings for the subframe connectors just before Thanksgiving and that's when things ground to a screeching halt. Thanksgiving, a ton of work before a Christmas shutdown, then two weeks of gift shopping, food shopping, cooking, cleaning, wrapping, visits hither and yon, house guests, a trip to Phoenix for New Years and then a ton of work to make up for no work over the last two weeks....cripes!

Well, I did eventually get a little time to finish the subframe connectors. Read on.......

As I mentioned previously, it's a liberating experience to cut your first big hole in an old car!

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicle...jpg?1232123916

Cutting the holes was pretty straightforward. I used a cutoff wheel on a 4.5" angle grinder. It made pretty short work of it. I think a cutoff on a pneumatic would be easier, but since the compressor I bought is not up to the task it had to do.

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicle...jpg?1232123921
http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicle...jpg?1232123938
http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicle...jpg?1232123943

The only real concern here is to be very careful to cut the hole undersized and sneak up on the fitment of the connector. I used a grinder to whittle away at the material until the connector just fit. My welding is pretty bad so I wanted the gaps as tight as possible. Not too bad.

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicle...jpg?1232123926

Then it was just a simple matter of welding it in (yeah, right!). Welding the seam on the inside of the car was pretty simple. Though 18ga to 3/16 steel requires a bit of fiddling with voltages and wire speeds. It wasn't awful though.

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicle...jpg?1232123959
http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicle...jpg?1232123949

Where it got tough was underneath. The outboard bit wasn't too bad but the inboard side was a horror show. It's still technically a "T-joint" but the floor pan has those rolled beads in it and one of them directly abuts the subframe connector. So instead of a straight 90degree angle the joint looks like a lower case "h" and you are trying to do your welding up inside the bottom of that lower opening. Really tough work. I burned through the floorpan in a few places and had to patch it but eventually got it all done.

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicle...jpg?1232123964

The fwd spring hanger blocks a bit of the joint between the connector and the rear frame rail so I'll have to zip a bit more of that together later.

The next step is the installation of the Detroit Speed mini-tubs. These will allow as much as a 335 section tire, but I won't be going quite that wide. I'm only going to be able to fit a 275 up front and don't want a super wide disparity so I'll probably stick to a 315 or so out back. But I'll have room for more.

The first step of this process was to remove the rear suspension assembly. It came out absurdly easily. Seriously, I didn't even need to break out any penetrating oil or even so much as a breaker bar. Everything came apart with a 3/8" drive ratchet and minimal effort. God bless my grandparents for keeping this thing garaged for 35 years. It's spent more nights outside since Ive owned it (2000 on) than it has in it's entire live. The bolts looked literally brand new when I took them out.

http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewga...wimg&id=227527

The 4x4 patch of tape on the fender has marks on it identifying the axle centerline. This will be important for locating bits of the 3-link but more on that later.


http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicle...7778227528.jpg
http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicle...jpg?1232123970

I'm not going to go into excruciating detail on the tub install. This thread outlines the process better than I ever could and it would be redundant to go over it in detail again. http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46900

I'll post a few photos here and there though.

Anybody need a complete rear suspension and 10-bolt rear for a 1968 Camaro? Free, if you come pick it up. Otherwise I'm tossing it.

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicle...jpg?1232123889

Looking good! Keep the updates and photos comin'

Dang....not sure why the images aren't all working.

Nice write ups..keep them coming.

Awesome progress! Looks like all the hard work and planning is paying off!! :thumbsup:

Thanks. I know the style and the process won't appeal to a lot of people but I'm glad that some folks "get" what I'm doing and have taken interest in the build.

It's also nice to see that you got the ATS pieces while you could as I know you wanted to go with them!

Still sad to hear about ATS!! :(

Had a couple of requests for progress photos. Again, I am reticent to attempt to fully chronicle the process for installing mini-tubs in a 1st-Gen. It's been done, quite well I might add here: http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46900

That said. This is no easy task. By far the most labor intensive thing I've done thus far. Having the use of a Plasma Cutter is HIGHLY recommended.

Here is the passenger side with the OE tub freshly removed

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3915.jpg

Getting the decklid hinge bracket out on the pax side was something else. The drivers side was easy with five neat/clean spot welds that were easy to drill out. The Pax side though had a ton of them and they were oddly shaped . Required a fair bit of beating and banging with a chisel to get them out. Some of the welds spaned well over 1/2" and were oblong rather than round. Ugh.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3912.jpg

Sneaking up on cutting out the space for the new tub:

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3920.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3921.jpg

I gotta say the instructions for this process are really bad. I mean horrible. DSE really needs to go through this process with someone who is not a member of their staff and rewrite the instructions under the assumption that the person doing the work isn't someone who has done it a dozen times.

I really needed to get the plasma cutter back to the guy I borrowed it from (our technical rep from Intel loaned his to me - Thanks Anthony!) so Vince and Allen came by on a Sunday to help me get everything that needed cutting...cut.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3922.jpg

Thanks for the help guys!!!

Here is the drivers side tub being "test fit". In this photo I have yet to weld in the fill plate so the gap is a bit wide and the tub is still sitting a little crooked because I've yet to fully grind flush the flange:

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3925.jpg

Welding in the fwd fill plate on the drivers side:

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3929.jpg

....and the aft plate on the drivers side clamped in place and about 1/2 tacked in:

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/CIMG3931.jpg

I've made a bit of progress since these photos were taken. I'll snap a few more tonight. Progress has been a bit slow of late. Work has been busy (beats the alternative) and my wife and I have had a lot going on as well. I hope to be able to wrap the tubs up within the next couple of weeks and then move on to cleaning all the undercoating off the bottom of the car in preparation for starting on the 3-link install. Though I may re-hang the front sheetmetal first. Not sure...

Well now....this is a really fun surprise:

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...true/CP-14.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...true/CP-15.jpg

Pretty cool!!