We've used these to neck down the pressure to turbos:

http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/pump_acc.html
http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/Photos/remrvlv.jpg

I agree with the statement above that there are plenty of turbos out there running with 35psi & above, but I think your install is challenging your hydro-static seals' ability to hold back the oil. The fact that it still smoked after you had the drain line dump into a bucket isolates your drain side (well, maybe...).

good luck jody.
rick k:)

thought of that, just not sure how well a fuel pressure regulator would hold up to the oil temps, even temporarily. The turbos are reduced to .035" which is smaller than most of the info I've seen on the net (most talk about .060"). There is no vertical room for even a 45, so 90 it must be.

Jody

I had the same problem with my car when I put it together! I tried everything you have tried and it still smoked. I had the vacuum pump at 12 inches of vacuum, .025 restricter in the oil line( 4 psi), reclocked the turbo, return line in bucket, 5-30 wt oil...everything! Before I could figure it out, it stopped smoking. It took about a week of driving and many passes on the rev limiter( I think that overspeeding the turbo may have helped with the smoking). It's been smoke free for 4 years now. I have -3 inlet oil lines and -10 drains. The drains have a 90 degree coming off of the turbo and about 6 inches of the line runs horizontal to clear the a-arm before it turns vertical to the oil pan. Drain line enters pan at 45 degree angle. I'm running the vacuum pump at 3 inches at idle.

I know how you feel, it can really piss you off, huh? It made me so mad that I started beating on the car( full throttle @ 18 psi ) and suddenly it stopped smoking! I hope this helps.

well, that goes right with one of the earlier threads I made where one of the members said to beat on it, it would seal up............. :lol: I have one more quick try this morning. If it doesn't work I'm going to look into something to reduce the pressure at the turbo.

Fortunately it only smokes at idle, fine running down the road so I can still drive it around and beat on it.

Still can't make more than 10 psi. I removed the manual boost controller lines and ran it off the wastegate springs. They're rated at .9 bar which should be 12-13 psi or so. It goes up to 10 psi quickly so it's not like it's struggling to make boost. Apparently the springs in the wastegates aren't really correct, and it appears my manual boost controller doesn't work at all...........

I know this sounds simple and maybe stupid. Change the spark plugs.
I had the same problem when I started up my GTR TT for the 1st time.
Sent the one turbo out to be rebuilt, etc, etc.
Changed the plugs, the smoking went away completely. (and it built boost)

Jeff-
Did you just replace them, or go colder / hotter, etc?

Jody- I thought these turbos already had road miles on them from Mark / You before 2.0; my bad if you've changed them.

no, those turbos went with the motor when I sold it. These were brand new units.

Jody

I know I shouldn't bug my head in where I'm clueless, but I was talking to someone about your problems today.

The suggested that if you take off the cold air tube, and put a socket/breaker bar on the turbine nut, you can stop the turbo from spinning at idle, because they turn so slow. Now, if it's a seal issue, it shouldn't smoke when the turbo is not spinning. If it's a oil drain issue, it will still smoke.

It made sense to me.....

well, I'm no expert either, but from some who are the slow or no spinning IS the issue. When it spins slowly the oil is not directed down the drain hole, and guys seem to have way more smoke issues at idle than anywhere else.

The faster the shaft spins the better it is directed to the drain and out of the turbo, instead of puddling at the seal.

Jody

I re-clocked the turbo and re-routed the drain line slightly, and it appears to have done the trick. I say "appears" as I didn't run it super long, but after a few miles of driving I let it idle for a couple minutes, which normally would have been smoking a lot.



Jody

:thumbsup: :woot: :willy: :cheers: :bow:
Time for some video

That is great news.

Keeping my finger crossed that it's fixed.

Excellent news:yes: Fingers are crosses that was it.

boy I sure hope this was the problem and it's fixed now...you need a break!!

Turbo issues
 

I don't know if i can help but these are some of my rules of thumbs i always like to place the drains for the pan by the middle main cap away from the crank swinging.I will use no less then a -12 drain i've had -10s give me issues if there are tight areas in the drain line i usually restrict the turbo to .0625 if we have any issues with oil.If there are issues with oil and that doesn't help they make a zero gap ring to install in the turbo i have a car thats pulling more than 20 kpa of the scale on decel right now thats a stick car that is puffing on decel and were putting the z gaps in that car.I also had car come in with not enough breather that can cause problems.Oil level would be important also Call tyler and see how much it takes to get it to the top of the tray because if its beyond that on the ats pan the crank will definetely whip it up especially with a stroker.Also the drain on that pan where it threads in is smaller than i would like to see.I used that pan on the mosler but we welded in -12s and pluged those in the front.I read the comments breifly but i think you said with the line not connected no oil was coming out.That sounds really odd and that there is something wrong with the turbo.Because that sucker will flat pour when disconnected.Even restricted to.035.I.t.s. use to have a ball bearing unit that i could never get to not smoke.When it came down to it it was the turbos the way they designed the center section.It wasn't until they went under and the guys that use to work there told me it was always a design flaw.Pissed me off good.Anyways sounds like you've got it i glad but if not you might want to try some of these things.Don't hesitate to call if you have any questions.Talk to you Tom

thanks Tom. The no oil coming out was from the pan when the drain line was disconnected. I left the fitting open to see if oil would come out at all, nothing at all. Yes, the drain line had quite a bit of oil coming into the bucket when disconnected and running!

Precision uses .035 restrictors up top. It seems to be good, but I am going to go to #12 lines and bigger fittings somehow. The line on the drivers side gets tight around the steering box, whether I go behind or in front of it, a larger line will help there. Also going to build a stainless hardline with a gentler curve off the turbo. I thought of welded #12's to the pan, now I know I'm going to do it. The i.d. of 3/8" npt is not as big as I would like, definitely smaller than the 5/8" i.d. of the lines.

Thanks for the info, you know a lot more than me about this. I just didn't want to bug you, you're a busy guy. Do appreciate the advice. :thumbsup:

Jody

I just replaced the plugs. One was bad, not firing all the time, was smoking on one side at idle. Wouldn't build boost either.

Sentences are your friend tom.. :D good info!