Yeah. I agree.
Keep up the great work.:cheers:

Glad to see you're making good progress. Keep at it.

Thanks for the comments guy's :thumbsup:

Wow love it super nice love the direction of the build:thumbsup:

very impressive. I love the look.

Jody

Thanks guy's.

Just got done mating up the transmission/engine and shimming the TOB etc. Nothing like a little Monday night swearing :willy: It feels weird to be bolting things together and leaving them after so many times assembling things only for mock up. Wrestling the trans is never fun for me but it does get a little easier re-installing things for the third time.

Looks awesome! :woot:

Greating looking car! I got the same wheels from Frank, great looking wheels I think!!!

Do you have a close up of the long studs coming through the front? thanks,

Steve, I snapped a quick cell phone pic, not the best but I think it gives you the idea.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...erf/fikse2.jpg

Thanks Tom,

Tonight I got the the power steering pulley and pump via UPS. I have had the engine in and out a number times and just did not think the ps pulley would be a problem with the steering box. I was wrong..
I am using vette acc's.
Note the pulley is not all the way in these pictures but even it was it would not work.
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x82/passperf/ps1.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x82/passperf/ps4.jpg
The pulley I am using is a C6. I am wondering what some of the other A-Bodies guy's are using and how close to the gear box is? Is the C5 pulley smaller diameter?
Below is a pic of the engine position. It is moved as far back as I could go. My first thought is move the engine forward which I wanted to avoid. Not sure that it would be enough anyway. Second thought was to raise it again via spacers between the engine stands. Also did not want that. Third thought was a Unisteer rack and maybe kill this problem and the nagging tie rod issue.
You guys have any thoughts or suggestions?
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x82/passperf/ps5.jpg

Back from the dead.......Another year plus gone by:lol:

I am still plugging away every once in while but I hope to get this thing going soon. My plan is to take it next March to the Run to the Coast event at El Toro. We actually turned the key the yesterday but it only cranked. The fuel was leaking so I will have trace that down and give it another go.
Sorry for cruddy cell phone pics

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...01008-0932.jpg

I plan to redo a few things like the radiator brace and the intake but these should function for now.
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...f/DSCN1826.jpg

I got my Inland Empire Drivline and it is a nice piece. I screwed up of the first measurement and was 1" short. The guy's IEDL were nice about and gave me a deal on a re-tube. They asked if it was their mistake and I was honest and said no. The guy smiled and said the rework will be half the normal cost for being honest. He said it happens often and normally people blame them so I was happy.
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...f/DSCN1830.jpg

Nice work Tom. Good to see the updates coming back. You're gettin there!

Tom are you using just the bracket,alt and power steering from the vette or is the whole accessory set up from a vette? I am curious if I can use parts from my F body setup and switch out a few parts. Brandon

Good to see you back on track, I love the project.

Thanks Guy's.

Brans: I am using all Vette acc. with the exception of a smaller Zoop's PS pulley. I don't think you can mix and match F and Y body because the offsets

Looking good Tom. Glad to see you working on it again.:thumbsup:

Progress looks good. Just keep moving forward and it'll be done soon enough. :thumbsup:

Looks great, Tom!

I am also very familiar with ever-long projects, LOL

I have not been good updating this thread but I got the car fired. It runs nice and smooth just like a new car. I did however hit a snag on the hydraulic clutch which resulted in pulling the trans yesterday. More on that below.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...perf/20111.jpg
My wife got me new doors for Christmas. I did not even put them on my list. She is a good woman.

Lookin good Tom!

When I went to bleed the clutch I noticed the braided line leaking inside the bell housing. I am using a RAM hydraulic bearing and I was not aware I needed to use teflon tape on the bearing side. The whole hydraulic clutch is new to me so live and learn. I was also concerned that clutch was rock hard.
If I opened the bleeder the pedal would sink down to the floor. I am thinking the spacing was off but checked that tonight and I think I am good. I will check more tomorrow.

Here is a pciture of the bearing relaxed
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...perf/20114.jpg
So since pulling this thing is a big PITA I hooked up the bearing and bleed it with the Motive pressure bleeder
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...perf/20112.jpg
After bleeding I pressed the clutch in to be sure it was moving. I am also concered of over extending so I may need to add a spot on the pedal.
It moved out:
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...perf/20113.jpg
I figure I can also check for more leaks.
*Here is where I am confused. I pumped the pedal and it extended till the pedal got hard. Any additional pressure by my foot would likely damage the bearing. Should the pedal remain hard at this stage?? Does the pressure plate help return the pedal all the way up thus reliefeing the had pedal?
I must be missing something so any feedback would be helpful.

Thanks Dave.

Very nice Tom. Love the build. Keep up the great work.
And Kudos to your wife for hooking you up with the doors!

If im understanding your story. Your master sounds too small.

Roger, I did not explain very well. When I had the trans in the car and bleed the clutch the braid line leak was very little (bigger puddle over night) so the pedal still became hard after I pumped it however never would release. Now trying it with the trans out it seems to be doing the same thing. Assuming the spacing on the bearing is correct would the pressure plate return the pedal when I release the pedal? I think I have the correct master as it came from the Hurst/Classic 5 speed kit. I will try and call them tomorrow but was hoping to put it back in Today.

Thanks

Congrats on being so close bro---hope you do make it to RTTC---Taco Party at my house on Sat night following the event.

Doug

So when the pedal became hard, was the clutch fully disengaged. I had to pull the trans in my camaro race ca few times to get the spacing just right. Then you have to set a stop so you don't over extend the throwout bearing. Sometimes I wonder how exact those after market bellhousings are. Just a bit more depth can change everything.

I've installed two of these. They are very specific about spacing. If you've ever driven a new car with a hydraulic clutch... The description would be "silky smooth" or "like butter".... But you'd never hear "rock hard".

My guess is that you have "something" wrong. So don't button it up until you're certain of the operation.

That's why I thought he ran out of master cylinder travel. If the cylinder is too small you may not move enough fluid to get the bearing to release the clutch. Just because they said it would work does not mean that you were talking to a sales person who knew what they were talking about. Plus having to pump it up leads me to believe it is too small also.

But I'm wrong alot, So who knows. When they work right they great. But sometimes getting it there takes some work. I love the clutch release smoothness and the height now. I hate low release clutches.

Sorry Rodger --- I was not really responding to your post.... I was trying to respond by ADDING to what you said. Guess I shouldn't have used the "quote tool".

These hydraulic clutches are super trick stuff -- and work so well and so smooth... but ya gotta get 'em set up right on the money.

I really have no idea what's wrong with his set up -- I was more just trying to say... it should work great and if not - keep searching for a fix!
:cheers:

Hay Greg I understand, just cuz you voted for me like 2000 times you feel like we are best friends and you want to be involved. No problem buddy your on the inner circle......If you think this post makes no sense look at the truck vote thread.

Rodger

Thanks Doug. The RTTC event is not going to happen as just too many nagging issues for a limited weekend warrior like me. My thought was just put a windshield, seat and harness and go but I am sorting out all the leaks which include every type of fluid such as oil lines, brake lines, coolant...you name it I have them. This clutch issue is just added bump in the road and once past that there will be other issues that pop up. Many of the members here make it look easy building a car but it is a roller coaster for me :yes: I will say I am so glad the paint and body is not done because things got pretty sloppy with brake fluid flowing all over. My paint on the frame is messed up but it can be touched up and does not show for the most part. I tip my hat to all the guy's with the skills to avoid messing things up. I do know if I go this deep on another car in the future it will be better the second time around because I will have a better idea of what to expect.

Rodger/Greg, thanks for the feedback. I think it must be in the spacing. I just did not have time to measure Today. I still think I am not good at putting the problem into words. I did not have to pump the pedal to get movement. I was speaking about pedal being hard and if I open the bleeder I could pump the pedal then. I believe the bearing never fully engagded the clutch fingers.
With the bearing out I was able to get the movement of the bearing with one step on the pedal and was wondering if the pressure plate overcomes the bearing thus returning the pedal from the floor because it remained hard. It seems logical that the pressure plate should return the pedal linkage? I will report back when I get info.

Thanks,

Tom

Since there is ZERO resistance on the hydraulic bearing with it being "out" of the car - there should be ZERO effort on the clutch pedal.

There is something going on there and my thoughts are it isn't the bearing -- I'd be looking at the pedal etc.

Try disconnecting the bearing -- or have someone hold a pan under your bleeder and then depress the clutch pedal - check for binding etc. Better yet - disconnect the pedal from the M/C and actuate the M/C by hand to see what it feels like. I'm betting your pushrod is too long and you're bottoming out the M/C giving you a "hard" clutch pedal feel. Sounds to me like there's a problem that is not really bearing related but in the pedal / M/C area.

I have installed a similar hydraulic clutch in my Dad's chevelle when we did the TKO install in fact used the same throwout bearing, Ive heard of some people having problems with Wilwood masters, something about the internal spring in the master becoming unseated and causing problems, My setup has a Tilton master but the design is different enough not to have the issues of the wilwood. Not sure which master you have just a thought though.
Hope this might help, Jake

So I pulled the transmission out and measured for the TOB again.
I came up with 3.08" from face of bell to high point of the clutch fingers.
The TOB on the spline compressed measured 2.47" from the bearing face to the mounting face on TKO so that left a delta of .610". I originally had only three concial spacers which are .100". I added another one which gave me a total of .400" or a .210" gap. The Classic Motorsports instructions indicate it must be a min of .125" gap to max of .225". Put the trans back. I now have a clutch feel. I pulled it out under it's own power which was cool, but the thing does not go into any gear easy running or not running. I did some searches and seems Tremec had some issues a few years back with shifter lug tolerances. I don't know if that is the issue or not or not but IIRC I bought mine back in 07. I was thinking clutch engagement is still off but don't know yet. I seem to recall trying to shifting it on the floor out the car a long time back and thinking it was harsh and not defined.
Here is a vid of the drive. I spliced it together to make it shorter


I have no exhaust or seats mounted yet...just a wooden stand for a seat:unibrow:

Hmm. here is the link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1xnVjU9yKs

i dont think the tko is the issue. those problems were mainly during high rpm shifting. ive done a bunch of searching in the last few days deciding what i wanted to do about my tko and i didnt read anything about the issues youre having.

good to see it moving!!!!

Great to see it cruising down the road! :thumbsup:

I agree on the TKO itself unlikely being the issue. Like Tim said above. I've spent hours on that subject researching threads, various sites, and phone calls as well.

Tom, I need you help agian with the wheels, what kind of lug nuts did you use, I tried to order some through Summit and all I got was a conversation of stupid, thanks