|
Slowly working through all the things that don't fit.
Put the front clip back on: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install051.jpg Still need to play with the front clip a bit to get the gaps better. Least now I have an engine bay: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install050.jpg Now to put the car on the alignment rack and do a basic alignment to get it at least close. Next up fuel lines, rear brake lines, gauges and all the electrical (along with battery in trunk and electrical head light door conversion). Getting exciting, so close. |
LOOKS GOOD ED!!!
She's coming along very well. GOOD JOB!:hail: |
Great progress, Ed. Love the wheels.:thumbsup:
|
Looking good ! When your done give the address to the shop and I'll send you mine to put back together. lol Your getting close now.
|
Thanks for all the compliments.
Another update - Car is now officially back together and is a roller. Even has a working parking brake: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install055.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install052.jpg Just some random good pics: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install057.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install058.jpg Car has some minor front end damage (guy I bought it from said a truck backed into it). Needs a new grill, upper and lower valances at least. But I'll worry about that when I do paint and body. Must get it on the road and drive it :machine: |
Looking good your moving along pretty well Keep us posted.
Wayne |
AWESOME!!!
Enjoy that bad boy!:thumbsup: :cheers: |
Twist Machine stuff arrives!
Haven't done an update in a while so here it is:
Car made PHR's under construction section here is a post about it here: https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=17547 Told my instructor who told the school's PR department which ended up doing a couple stories one in the tech bulletin that goes out to all the JCs with Tech schools and the local paper. Never thought there would be so much interest. But I guess a computer guy going to school and doing this while he is learning is a story of some interest. Been pretty stoked about it. Towed the car out of the College shop and home (long story). I been working with Steve and Twist Machine and Bowler Transmissions to hook me up with a 4L65E-RR package with paddle shifters (since my old trans won't do): New Trans Painted with Por-15 and their Chassis Black: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ssion016sm.jpg I gotta say working with Steve was amazing. He made a custom adapter for me so I could run a wheel that keeps with my stock interior: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/IMG_0189.jpg Even better looking in person. Steering wheel is a Grant wheel made for a Corvette (since you can't run a deep dish with the paddle shifters). I can't wait to bolt this thing up. Got a nice crossmember from GForce to go with the trans as well. My hat is off to Steve for providing such great products and services! Since the car is now home I decided to do some of the things I had been putting off at the shop at school. I hadn't painted my trunk since mini-tubbing and it has some rust issues I need to address. So I have been stripping off all the paint (and some bondo :( ) out of the trunk. Looks like they used a bunch of bondo to cover up some rust problems in the trunk. http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_Trunk004.jpg Got most of the paint, undercoating and rust off now so I can see what I am dealing with: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_Trunk007.jpg Not certain of what I am going to do yet. Probably need a new trunk pan if I was going to do the fix the right way. Just I want to get the car on the road and metal work seems to take me forever to do. Thinking about using of the Por-15 products to fill in the rust holes and then paint up the trunk with Por-15 then splatter paint it and seal it. Along with doing the same to the interior floor boards as well (which are in actually very good shape (no rust or bondo). Then once all that is done using Second Skin's Damplifier pro and insulate sound proof the bottom of the car. I also have a bunch of Lizard skin left I figure I'll use in the doors and hard to reach areas of the interior. Also rolled my rear fender lips on both sides as I need to do that as one side was a bit close for my liking (don't have pics yet). Been very busy with the holidays and such (built an entertainment system for my folks as my brothers and I went in and bought them a nice big screen LCD TV for Christmas). Hopefully should be able to pick up some steam and get the Trans in and get the interior painted up and insulated. |
Well time for a big update.
Had the car towed back into the College shop for a winter class. The tow truck driver ended up dumping my car into my planter (drive way is really steep). Had told him that I only had a parking brake and that we needed to go slow due to the steep driveway. But he was in too much of a hurry and didn't listen. Looks like the parking brake won't hold the car on that steep an angle. Going to need to make sure I get at least the driveshaft in before towing back home again. I was lucky another 6" and it would have dropped 6 feet into my neighbor's front yard. Ended up putting a small gouge in my new wheels thou on the driver's front side. Talked to Jon at Driver's inc about getting it fixed he thought that they could make it look as good as new. Time to install the trans: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...mission035.jpg Ends up thou that the flexplate that eagle gave me is some odd one that only has one bolt pattern (11.50") instead of a dual bolt pattern. http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...mission017.jpg If I was going to run this bolt pattern it would require a lot of changes to the Bowler/Twist Machine setup. Eagle wasn't much help as they were not sure why the flexplate only had one pattern on it (claimed it should have had two) and didn't know the balance weight on the flexplate. Finally after a lot of help from Steve and Twist machine I bought a TCI one. http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...mission033.jpg Just to be certain both flexplates had the same counterweight (the TCI one was almost a pound heavier), I put both flexplates on a manual tire balancer and they both had the same out of balance weight within 0.1oz. One problem solved. Started mocking up and installing the trans wiring along with Fast's A/F meter and dual wide band O2 sensors. Trying for a really nice clean install so that its not noticeable. Drilled a second hole so I could route everything (too much wiring to go through the stock single hole). Tried to offset it the same least give it some symmetry: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...mission047.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...mission046.jpg |
Had to clearance the trans tunnel a bit in a few places (around the accumulator pump and on the Passenger's O2 sensor. So far really happy with the install. Unless you are really looking for it, none of the wiring or O2 sensors should be visible:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...mission051.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...mission048.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...mission049.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...mission050.jpg |
Installed the Shiftworks 4 speed kit with new dent and cover:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...mission038.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...mission036.jpg Really fits with my "stock" / "sleeper" theme. Can now at least put the trans in all gears now properly. Also ordered a Mark Williams 3" Chromoly drive-shaft. Actually received it, but it seems that the Bowler trans has a heavy duty output shaft. The OD of the spines is the same as the shaft OD rather than being raised. What this meant that the Trans yoke wouldn't fit all the way in and prevented me from installing the driveshaft. After talking with Travis at Mark Williams we were able to figure out what was going on. http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...utShaft001.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...utShaft003.jpg And they were kind enough to offer to counter-bore the yoke about 5/8" and rebalance to get it to fit. So waiting on the return of the driveshaft to install it. Installed my sub-frame connectors. Really needed them in so I could continue with fuel line routing: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nectors004.jpg |
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nectors005.jpg
Ended up TiG welding in the rears completely but on the fronts, I drilled the holes to bolt them up but then tacking them on the bottom and top on each side (4 tacks per sub-frame connector side). http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nectors003.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nectors008.jpg Should be pretty solid, but if I ever need to pull the front sub-frame should be able to, just have to grind down a few welds. Looks like the exhaust has some fitment problems as well. Need to trim the passenger sides' collector reducer about 1" so that the exhaust runs straight along the centerline of the car. Also going to need to trim the X-Pipes about 9" so that I can properly fit the mufflers in. Mocking up the rear brake lines and tabs, just need to weld those in now. Finished mocking up the fuel line and cooler lines for the oil cooler and trans cooler. Bought all my AN fittings (damn they were expensive). Going to run a combination of hardlines and flexline. Hoping to run hardline where ever I can and then use the flexline to allow components to move around when they need to or to allow disassembly as needed (to change fuel filters for example or to isolate the fuel pump). Bought all the hardlines and flex line, benders, flaring and cutting tools. Now it is just a matter of going to town and getting it done. Bending the hardlines to actually where it seems to be the biggest challenge for me. Was practicing flaring tubing and that seems straight forward enough, its just getting the hardline bends correct, the seamless annealed stainless especially in 5/8 isn't cheap or easy to bend. Mocked up my Ron Davis radiator: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install069.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install070.jpg Also have the March Performance v-belt pulley system with a long water pump. Always heard some people had trouble with this. There is a nub on the fan motors on the Driver's side fan it has next to no clearance with the power steering pulley nut. I just need about 1/8 to 1/4 more clearance. I used well nuts to mount the radiator on the driver's side. Thinking of replacing those with some really thin rubber washers. Also I might be able to get a bit more clearance by loosening the fan shroud and pushing it in a bit further. Also a different nut on the power steering. Also it might be possible to rotate the fan or the fan motor 180* to get this nub out of the way. W/o the nub there is a good 1/2 clearance. I wonder if I should rename my project to "Nothing Fits", lol. Next steps get the driveshaft back and in, get the exhaust and radiator to fit. Then going to fab up some brackets to hold the trans and oil coolers in front of the radiator. |
Update: Been busy trying to get everything to fit. Got the drive shaft back from Mark Williams fits like a glove now.
I then started on mocking up and bending all the hardline tubing for my fuel system. I am using a Ricks stainless notched, baffled, sumped tank. I used -10 AN fittings coming out of the tank (was a pain routing them straight up for the nice clean look) and going to an Aeromotive 100 micron filter with a shutoff valve. This goes into their Street Rod pump and down to -8. The pump and filter are held by a some custom brackets so that they can move but isolated from the body by rubber grommits (need to take a better pic). This is then routed via 1/2 hardline to the lower rocker panel near the front of the passenger's side into a -10 BG plate and fin type cooler. This goes into a -10 Aeromotive 10 micron filter and into a Drainback valve then to -8 Earl's braided hose up to the regulator. The regulator then splits into 2 -6 hoses each feeding a side of the Carb. The return is plumbed similar. -8 Braided hose from the regulator to the framerail, then 1/2 hardline all the way back to the tank where it opens up to 5/8 hardline for the bends to make it around and back into the tank. Here are some pics: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...lSystem004.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...lSystem024.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...lSystem018.jpg |
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...lSystem009.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...lSystem017.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...lSystem010.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...lSystem025.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...lSystem026.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...lSystem029.jpg All the hard and flex line are held in place by coated Adel clamps so that nothing will chaff. The areas where the hoses or hardlines could run are covered by Tiagon tubing. Had to fabricate a number of custom brackets. Used a bunch of stainless button head allens for a nice look. Made a custom screen over the fuel cooler to keep debris from impacting it. |
Installed heater and radiator hoses. Went up one size in air filter as well (measured had an extra 1" of space so it just fits). Still have a bit of work to do in trimming and gotta do something about the brass fittings :D Engine Bay now:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install074.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install075.jpg Oil Cooler Lines made from 5/8 stainless annealed seamless tubing (all the hardlines of various sizes). They were a real pain getting 5/8 line to fit and bent around the kickout in my pan. Even still I have to run an external oil filter because I cannot take the oil filter off with the oil cooler lines the filter runs into either the lines, the kickout in the pan or the headers. http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...gSystem001.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...gSystem002.jpg Trans cooler lines are even more of a pain especially the upper one. No way to actually tighten down the fitting can only barely get a finger in there. Also very little space between the header and the lines so put some of the Earl's spark plug wire silicon covers. http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...gSystem004.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...gSystem003.jpg |
Installed a belly pan
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install080.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...stall081-1.jpg Now trying to figure out the plumbing for the oil thermostat and the trans/oil coolers. I gotta say this would be a lot simplier if I didn't have an RS: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...gSystem005.jpg |
A word on the hardline and flex line. I found that the Rigid flaring tool to be a great tool for doing the 37* flares needed for the AN fittings.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA210_.jpg Imperial Eastman benders worked well for me, the 5/8 bender is kind of scary, leaning so much weight on it to bend the 5/8 tubing. I cut all the hardline with a rotary tubing cutter. Then filled down the end smooth, countersunk the end, then used a deburring tool with 80 grit to smooth the inside and outside of the tubing, followed up with some 400 grit emery cloth to get everything really smooth. If it was rough to the touch I made it smooth. I found if I did that everytime I rarely had an cracks in my flares. I used all Jegs black AN fittings which seem to be of good quality but considerably cheaper than say Earl's. I did use the expensive stainless flexible lines (Perform-o-flex). Also the Summit hose cutters worked really well. Koul tools really helped for the smaller lines (-6 and -4 for the radiator overflow). http://www.frontlinegraphics.com/kou.../KoulTools.jpg http://www.koultools.com/ I just don't have the patience to get all the wires in for the smaller hoses. With Koul tools it was super easy to start them. |
Realy nice project! Just love those rims to your blue collor!
|
Quote:
|
Making custom brackets and stuff is fun. Very time consuming but fun. What is about making a custom bracket that no one will probably ever see but you still have to make it look good?
Case in point I needed to make a bracket to hold my trans and oil coolers in place. It needed to go across the front of the radiator across the support. I took some aluminum channel 1-1/2 wide by about 32" long: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...gSystem007.jpg After mocking it up, drilling the mounting holes in it I drilled some vent holes in it so it wouldn't block too much air coming across the radiator and the coolers. Then powder coated it black (sorry forgot to take a pic of it not mounted): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...gSystem011.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...gSystem009.jpg Talk about just barely fitting. Between the center latch support and the RS doors and the cooler fittings I was just barely able to get everything to clear when the RS doors are all the way open (you non-RS folks have it easy :D ) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...gSystem012.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...gSystem015.jpg The trans cooler isn't positioned perfectly (some of the radiator support blocks it) but it was as close to the center support as possible and far enough from the RS door as it could be. I found if I positioned the cooler just right I could get the back side of the door to give me a bit more clearance for the fittings. Hopefully with the top and bottom sealed up I should get some pretty good air flow through the coolers and radiator. I have one of those panels that closes out the space between the radiator support and the front valance so after it is buttoned up no one will be able to see all this: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...gSystem014.jpg But it was still very fun making that bracket, I can however peek through the grill from time to time: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...gSystem017.jpg |
Looking good.:thumbsup:
|
It looks good.
|
Thanks guys :)
|
Love the wheels and belly pan..:thumbsup:
|
Quote:
Installed a top closeout panel (from Undercover innovations Derel was kind of enough to add a ball mill option on their new two piece panels, nice guy to deal with): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install084.jpg Been routing brake lines, had to swap out some rear flex lines as they were rubbing on one of the axle tabs for the G-Bar. Also installed a line lock here is some pics: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install087.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install085.jpg Still have some minor adjustment/shortening of the brake lines to get them away from the headers a bit. Bracket is made out of 1/8" thick steel that was polished (can't believe I spent the time to do that) and then powder coated clear. My first time trying the clear and I guess the heat discolored the clear or the steel a bit, now has a bronze tint to it, but I think looks interesting. |
Still messing with brakes. I found a slight drag on the rear rotors (when trying to set the parking brake). For kicks decided to measure the run out. Found 0.010" (Drv) to 0.015" (pass) runout along the rotor. Removing the rotor I found 0.005" runout on both axles.
Called Moser and the tech said up to 0.008 was within tolerance. Trying to figure out if I should cut the rotors on the car to true them. Trying to get ahold of Noah at Touring-classics to see what he thinks. For comparison the fronts had less than 0.001 run-out (gauge barely moved). Welded on my rear brake tabs. Also began installing my Shrifter and new Steering wheel. Decided to replace my turn signal switch while I had things apart. Interesting that the local GM dealer stocked the item (ouch $75). |
Car looks great man... I gotta say that is my favorite color for a 69 Camaro... BTW what kind of school are you working on this at?
|
Ed,
I just read all 7 pages. Great work and awesome thread! I really like the sleeper idea and I think the broken radio antenna seals it....so keep it! Good job buddy!! :thumbsup: |
Quote:
Quote:
---- On another note was able to get my rear rotor runout down to 0.001 from 0.010-15. Learnt how to use a on-car brake lathe and trued my rotors to the axles. Much better feel as the rear wheel rotates now. I'm stoked. |
Wow, I just read the whole build thread. I really like the car and also have a TON of respect for you to just dive in and go for it. To put yourself into school and turn out such a nice job is so cool! It's been a motivator for me. Thanks for sharing all of your experiences on this!:cheers:
Keep the updates coming please. PS Those wheel are sweet! I just about cried when I read about the tow truck driver screwing the pooch and causing damage. |
Quote:
Yeah the feeling watching that happen to your car was the worst sinking feeling. All that hard work and to think in a matter of moments could be wiped out. The worst feeling ever. I look back and think how much worse it could have been and count my blessings. |
Nice build. Sorry to hear about the tow truck incident. I have a strong feeling you'll be wanting a different carb at some point. What you've got will be "ok" if you get into messing with the jetting and air bleeds to dial it in. I think you are leaving a lot of power untapped. I'd be looking at something along the lines of 1000 cfm with annular boosters and replaceable air bleeds. Put that wideband to good use !
|
Quote:
Yeah in hindsight I think I might have undercarbbed a bit, 870+ might have been a better choice. My plans are to eventually switch to a EFI setup so I am not too worried. I'll have a bit more throttle response and low end give up some on the top for now. |
That's what you say now. :D
|
Well a bunch of changes:
Did my own alignment: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ignment006.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ignment008.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ignment010.jpg Got nearly spot-on settings for Camber (-0.5* and Toe In 1/16"), had caster nearly spot on (4.0/4.5*) but then I think something went bonkers with the machine (or something shifted on my frame). All I could get was 2.0* on pass after a minor tweak to toe. Resetting the machine and recalibrating didn't do anything. I had limited time so I just looked as this being a rough alignment I'll have to do another one later once the car is on the road a bit. Exhaust is in, currently just turned down at the axles: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Exhaust003.jpg Had to make a custom piece to adjust for one header (/shakes fist at Hooker Headers) pointing down slightly throwing everything off http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Exhaust002.jpg Not too pretty but fixes the problem completely and the exhaust fits nice. Still having a problem bleeding rear brakes but had to cut troubleshooting short. Because had to get the car towed home again from the Auto shop at school. Its a long story but basically the Dean kicked me out. He had a lot of trouble with combining technology schools in a project (Welding, Machining, Engine, Brakes, Suspension). Plus does not like "restoration projects" at all (thou seems to have a lot less objections to imports or faculty member's cars doing the same thing). One would think he would encourage students to push the envelope like the teachers there do but he was very unsupportive. So much so, even threatening to just push the car out on a major street or have towed away. So anyways the car got towed home but again, but cracked my new front spoiler in two this time, no other damage at least. :rolleyes: Here is a couple picks right before towing home - Engine compartment really coming together (can you spot the MSD ignition box in the pic?): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install090.jpg Car ready to tow home: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install093.jpg A lot of garage reorganization over the last couple weeks as well as new tools :) I'm surprised how many tools I was used to having access to all the time. Just trying to fill in the gaps so I can keep moving forward. Took my front grill off. Next step is to try to plumb in the Hydroboost, power steering and cooler. The grill is cracked and the upper valance has damage and is bent where a truck backed into it (bought it that way). Also the lower running light valance is all bent as well, tried straightening it with a come-along but it is still all tweaked. Thinking of just replacing all three major (upper, lower and grill) pieces since Classic Industries still has their 20% off sale going on and its mostly apart. Also started mocking up the DSE RS electric conversion. While doing so figured out the old RS doors are nearly rusted out, got to replace those as well. I figure if I can get the power steering taken car of and the front end pieces replaced that will wrap up pretty much everything non-electrical / interior and then I can concentrate on insulating the interior and installing all the new electrical goodies. |
Wow...you have done a great job so far....keep up the good work and progress pics.
|
Looking good!
|
Looks awesome Ed.
Have you had a chance to drive her yet? Looks like a nice car.:cheers: |
Thanks for all the nice comments.
Quote:
|
Ed, you got that baby running yet?
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:55 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net