I went hydraulic but if I had to do it again I would at least try to use a mechanical linkage. I already have some leakage issues and mounting the master and getting the rod angle and ratio right was a real pain...although I'm working on an a-body which doesn't have the aftermarket support that an f-body does yet.

I only went hydraulic because with a dart block, steel bellhousing, tremec transmission and dual plate clutch I figured there was too many different aftermarket parts involved to get a mech to work.

I think I'm going to try to run mechanical linkage. Thanks for the heads up on the headers Todd, I'll keep that in mind.

gmorris- I'll be running a factory GM block so I should be ok with everything but the headers. But thank you for the info on the hyd set up.
Eric

So I got the word today that the block I was hoping to use for my first ever big block adventure is toast. It has a spun main bearing and a crack in the same main web (saddle?) IT had also been hogged out 060 over already so even if everything else checked out I wouldn't use it. Now I get to find another one to play with.
Lucky for me, one of the guys on Chevelles.com lives next door to my best friend. He happens to be into big blocks (very into big blocks) and has another one for me to buy. He also has pretty much everything to machine it with except honing the mains. That will be farmed out.
So I owe a big thank you to the guys that sent me to that site. It turned out well.
Now I have another question. Heads. Has anyone used or know anything about Peters Performance Aluminum Heads? The Australian heads. The price ($1,699.00) completely assembled. Stainless valves,steel retainers and keepers, srings (for hyd cam), rubber/teflon seals, rocker studs and guide plates. 95cc comb chambers, 310cc int runners.
I have never heard of them. But I'm the new guy here.
Thanks,
Eric:cheers:

I would prefer a well known machine shop did my machining and the heads were set up for your application. Meaning, camshaft and intended use. I have no idea who you are talking about and haven't heard of the heads. It could be great or vice versus. Do your due diligence.

I hear you Todd. The heads are something I just found out about today. The pricing was good but that only made me curious. I won't be using any off brand or cheap stuff in this engine. It will either be Dart, AFR or Trick Flow for heads. The guy doing the machine work has a lot of engines running around here ( I have seen many of them run at the races here and have known him for a few years via my best friend, we just never talked cars much before and I didn't realize he has his own business out of his home shop). So I am very comfortable with his abilities. I have spoken to a few people running his engines this week and they are also very happy with his work. We have talked a bit about what my goals are and he said the same thing you did, set it up right. Meaning matching the cam and heads, comp ratio, piston selection...
I'll be talking more with him soon and getting a specific parts list together. I'll post it before I start buying anything and see what you think.
Thanks for all of you help in this. I REALLY appreciate it! If you get up this way or I get down there, dinner and drinks are on me!:cheers:
Eric

Sounds like you have have talked to the right people. Have you seen me drink?:rofl:

Uh oh. Did I just sign myself up for bankruptcy if I take you out drinking?:captain: Oh well. At least they don't allow drinking in the strip clubs up here. Those two are a bad mix.......:_paranoid

I think you're making the right move by sticking with DART, AFR or Trick Flow heads.
Good luck with everything. I've learned some stuff as well by following this thread, thanks to you & Todd.:thumbsup: :cheers:

I have learned a lot too. Todd has been VERY helpful in all of this. I just asked a ton of questions. That man has the patients of a saint.:thumbsup:

I have a partial list of parts selected and am waiting on a couple of answers about some others that are undecided still.
When I gat the whole list put together I will post it so everyone can give opinions and maybe even take guesses where it will end up with hp and tq.
The goal is 600 for both. If I go beyond that I'll be looking at a whole new level of parts and HUGE expenses with engine internals and transmission issues. I have to try and keep some sort of budget on this.:rofl:

Thanks to everyone for all of the help!
Eric

This is so cool. We have 5 pages of BBC chat with some really good info.
I know I will be going back several times to re read this thread.

I can't tell you all how excited I am to have a nasty big block between the fenders. This is my first one and it's going to be a blast to hammer on! Time to buy stock in tires and brakes!

(and hardly any mention of LS stuff, not that there is anything wrong with them guys ;))

In my old 69 Vette, I did a 454 bored 60 over with the Edelbrock RPM package (heads/cam) and then duplicated their 540 hp proven package. I topped that off with a PRO-FLO EFI unit for good measure.

It made great power - rumbled like a pack of angry harleys...and was a kick to look at with the hood up. No need to spin it hard to ram you into the seat.

I ran a Richmond six and 3.55 gears in the rear. Very balanced, very strong combo.

SO AWESOME!!! Should be fun.:yes: :cheers:

That sounds like a nice motor. I would like to do EFI as well.
Is that your car in your advatar? Looks nice. Got any pics of it?:thumbsup:

69 myway- That sound like a great package in the vette. Do you remember what the 6th gear ratio was in the richmond? I have not decided which rear gears to go with yet or the final drive ratio in the trans.
EFI and forced induction will come later. The engine is being built with a very stout bottom end so it will handle the upgrades down the road.
The engine and the rest of the car is going to cost me plenty now without adding those to the list. I'll have to save my pennies for later.
Eric

Here is the parts list.
 

Ok guys, here it is, all of the parts I plan on using for my engine build.
Please feel free to give opinions.

489 cid (454 truck block 030 over)
4.250 Scat forged crank
6.385 Scat H beam forged rods with ARP bolts
SRP forged 18cc pistons
Brodix Race Rite heads with "CNC option"
Custom grind solid roller cam approx .250" int/.260" ex (to be dialed in soon)
1.7/1.7 roller rockers
Isky Red Zone roller lifters
Edelbrock Performer RPM air gap intake
Pro Systems HP1000 carb
HEI w/ MSD 6AL box

This should be good for just over 630 hp at 6000rpm
and 625 tq at 4000 rpm

I am pretty much duplicating another build by Mike Lewis Racing Engines
That motor did 634 hp at 6000 and 627 tq at 4100 rpm.

The cool part is it had 540 lb/ft @ 3100 rpm!!
And was turning 475 hp @4000 rpm. That is the same rpm as peak torque.

With a TKO600 behind it in a '70 Camaro it should really get with the program!

So let's hear it guys. What are your thoughts? I do value evryones opinion on this so please let it fly.

Thanks,
Eric:cheers:

Sounds good to me:thumbsup: Now is the time to figure out your intentions for the car. I'd go for a quality oil pan incase you decide to race. I'd also go with a vacuum advance distributor or programable advance.

Looks liek a very solid build that will be an awesome driver.

I'm also running a solid roller and Isky Redzones (with EZ roll option) and decided to run an accusump oil accumlator to eliminate dry starts and help with oiling on the road course. It is really nice to hit the switch and watch the oil pressure come up and 3 quarts of oil pump through the engine before you even touch the key.

After one day on the track I am also in the middle of an oil cooler install as my oil temps were over 300º in 3 laps with the coolant staying under at 200º. I can get the oil over 280º with some hard driving on the twisty mountain roads here too.

Make sure you have a good radiator/fan setup if you'll be driving in traffic at all.

My TKO600 is handling 700ft-lbs with no problem so far but I only have 1100miles on it.

That sounds awesome Eric.
Looks like it will be a nice engine and strong too.
Keep us posted buddy!:thumbsup: :cheers:

I'm getting ready to install an accumlator and oil cooler as well. I just can't find anywhere I want to mount a honking 3 quart system...I'll be going with 1.5-2 quarts and the manual valve. I'll probably leave it off on the street for reliability.

The 3 quart was a complete nighmare to mount. I had just enough room to put it on the firewall but it isn't exactly beautiful there. I would want a minimum of 2 quarts personally for road course duty as I see my oil pressure start to drop with the sump off when pushing it on offramps let alone long sweepers on the track. I would be afraid of a 1.5 quart running out of volume before the end of the corner.

I just turn mine on for the pre-lube and then kill the power to the valve for normal driving as well. The accusump EPC valve acts as a check valve so even with it off it will still charge it to the highest pressure hit while driving. Mine sat for about a month without losing an ounce of pressure as well which will make the spring startup easy.

I've only autocrossed the car but never noticed a drop in pressure in the sweepers during spirited driving. Not sure I've looked either. I'm running a stock big block pump with a max pressure of 40-42 hot so it doesn't pump excess oil up top. Not saying I won't have a problem. What pan are you running?

Can't remember the PN but it's a typical a-body moroso pan. None of the really good road race pans fit an A-body without hacking up the front crossmember. I may end up doing some custom mods next winter.

I didn't think I had any issues either until I made a point of watching the gauge durign a 270º on ramp run. It doesn't drop to zero or anything but it bounces around pretty good. I'm runnign full sweep electric gages so they react pretty quick.

Thanks for the tips on the cooling and oil systems. I've been told to run a stock pump (oil) and have also been told I should run high vol/pressure pump. I have to think that a stock pump with an accumilator set up is going to be the best route. I will be on the track at least a couple of times (road course here) just to have some fun. I still need to pick out an oil pan. It will have to fit the factory sub frame and still have extra capacity. Any thoughts?

I do have a brand new billet HEI with an adjustable vac advance. Just need the 6 AL MSD box.

As for cooling, I've been looking at aluminum radators and different fan set ups. I'll have to see just how big of a rad I can fit in there, I will be in traffic at times and am not going to take a chance on frying this motor.
I'll be using an oil cooler too.

Todd, as for the intentions for the car? It will be a driver. I have A LOT of nice twisty roads here that I run my bike on and will be a blast in the car. I don't see myself doing any "formal" drag racing or alot of autocross either. Just a very solid street driven car. But it will be set up for great handling and braking. I intend to abuse the hell out of the tires, clutch, brakes and throttle!:D I am not going to build it just so I can look at it on sunny days. I have a real issue with owning something that I can't use. And a bigger issue with crap that does not work as designed. Cheap tools, parts, guns, whatever. No room in my life for shi**y equipment. Cars are made to be driven. The only way mine will see a trailer is if it's broken or I crash it.

Glad to hear the TKO is holding up with that kind of torque.

Thanks guys!
Eric:cheers:

PS I am going Sunday to get another block. I'll keep you posted.

I'm just saying look at the finish line because it's cheaper to do it right now than later. If you intend to beat it, build it that way. You will get a million opinions on the oil pump. Big blocks are known for pumping the pans dry so I'd have to lean away from the high volume pump. The big block pump is already a work horse and naturally high volume. Mine runs 45-50 psi cold 20-25 idle hot, usually 35-40 crusing and that's when the relief valve opens at about 40. It was built that way on purspose. Oil pressure is one of those deals where everybody thinks more is better. Not neccesarily. A high pressure spring in a stock pump is an option that would get you to 50-60 psi hot at high rpm. I'm going to add an accumulator before I road course the car just for insurance if nothing else. It's well documented that any engine on a road course will need an oil cooler. You need to run a t stat on it. My motor has trouble building heat in the winter here. I'm going to switch to a 195 t stat next winter and switch back to a 180 in the summer. It will actually run 150-165 in the back of the block in the winter even with the stat opening at 180. And it's Vegas!

Good point on the stat. I'm installing a canton oil t-stat that only opens to the cooler when the oil hits 215º. It's a pricey piece but it's one of the few that have a high enough opening temp to ensure good oil temp. Most open too cold at 180º

My coolant stat and fan setup keeps me between 190 and 205º engine temp which is right about where I want it to run. Most people seem to want to run their engines and oil way too cool.

I agree.....why start cooling oil at 180. Let me see if I can find the stat I'm looking at.

Todd,
I sure do want to do it right the first time. So I am going to run a stock pump. And an accumulator as well. Are you saying I should or should not run a high pressure spring?
As for the oil cooler, I am going to run one of those too but have never seen a stat set up for one. Is there a spot in some coolers for one or is it in line?

We get a wide rang of temps here in the summer. It could be 50 one day and 95 the next. The winters can get pretty cold but not so bad that I'd need to swap coolant stats. My truck runs 180-195 all year. If I had to guess at an average daily temp JUST A GUESS, maybe 55-60 AVERAGE all year. Highs in the upper 90s and lows in the teens.

I am really trying to look at the finish line hard here. I will beat the crap out of the car at times. I am trying to make sure I put the right combination of parts together to have a very durable ride. I am sure things will fail/break and as that happens I will have to find a way to fix/upgrade whatever it is.

As always, I am wide open to suggestions. Thanks guys!
Eric

PS
Gary, I just noticed you were following the thread on chevelles.com. I posted the parts list there too. I'm glad I made a connection with Mike Lewis over there. There are some really nice cars on that site. Yours is VERY COOL! And for anyone who has not visited that site, there are a bunch of really nice people over there. I'd encourage anyone to go take a look and join up.

I'd rely on your machinist since he will be setting your bearing clearances. I'm really not sure what to tell you on the spring. I don't think it will hurt the longevity, but it will put extra load on your distributor gear and pump the pan dry faster in a high rpm run. It's really your call.

Thanks Todd. I'll do some research on it and figure it out. (the oil pump spring)
I looked up some oil t stats and that will be a piece of cake to work in at this point.
There is a decent selection of oil coolers at Summit. Some with fans and some without.

Ok, I finally got the whole block issue dealt with. I have a clean, stock bore 2 bolt 454 block. It has been tanked and magged. It's good to go. (and a great price too).
So now it's on to the build. I'll be ordering parts in a couple weeks and getting started on the machine work as soon as I have the rotating assembly.
Thanks for all the help to this point guys. I am sure there will be more questions as I am going to assemble it myself.
Eric:thumbsup:

Looks like you're on your way Eric. Good deal.
Keep us posted.:cheers: