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Big Update
First of all, "Thanks" to Greg for the suggestion on rectifying the oil leak. I did not go the route of replacing the bolts with studs, but did take your advice regarding removal the two rear bolts near the area of seapage, one at a time. Cleaned thoroughly with q-tips and smeared ARP thread sealer on each bolts and torqed back down to specs. Acutally a little thread sealer proceeded to ooze our exactly where the oil was weaping, no more oil leak. :)
Another item which was really bugging me was the radiator core support and the visual "stamping wrinkles" present from day one, along with a couple stamped factory holes in the top of the core. I definitly should have taken care of this earlier, but no time better than the present to get'er right. http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...maroJan233.jpg http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...maroJan234.jpg http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...maroJan236.jpg Welded a couple washers in the holes and filled the rest with weld. Ground down the balance and used a skim coat of filler to smooth out the balance of wrinkles. Resprayed the core support, taped off the motor side portion and shot the front side by removing the grill. Turned out really nice and very satisfied now with the appearance. http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/Jan001.jpg The past weekend I tackled the exhaust. I reused the Dr. Gas X-pipe from previous exhaust, but had to modify the front 45 degree bend on one side to to match the spread of current headers. Did I mention laying on your back under a car re-doing exhaust kinda sucks. I really pleased though how the modifications worked out. If it wasn't for the opprotunity to play with more tools, I'd probably have jobbed this out. http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...Exhaust003.jpg After the transmission area and outlet of the x-pipe, I wanted to get the exhaust piping closer to the floor boards, so I ordered a "u-bend" and messed around with the some paper templates. First I traced the bend on some poster board and used them for practice to determine exaclty where I should cut. Keep in mind guys I've never even welded prior to this project, so I might be proud here of some pretty trivial stuff compared to what you all can fabricate. http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...Exhaust001.jpg http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...Exhaust002.jpg http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...Exhaust004.jpg http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...Exhaust005.jpg After having every joint "tacked" for routing purposes, I proceeded to remove the entire exhaust system. The planned "ball and socket" joints right before the mufflers made this easy an easy removal, took less than 10 minutes. Placed pipes on work table and finished all the welding, added O-2 bungs and painted with VHT "Flat Aluminum" for protection from rust. I'm very happy with the end result. http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...Exhaust006.jpg http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...Exhaust007.jpg I'm probably going to attempt to reuse the tail pipes which I cut from the old system, but if this is too big of a pain in the ***, I'll probably drive it like this it's under power and head over to an exhaust shop. Who know, one weeke removed from this past weekend and I'll probably be motivated to finish it myself, back under the car we go.:lol: Here's the engine bay after a little more work. http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/Jan009.jpg |
Good job Jon! I knew you could do it!! :rofl:
Keep on keeping on... a little here - a little there... next thing you know - you'll be motoring! |
The project is looking GREAT! I like what you did with the core support too.
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Update
Not sure how many of you have thought about or used the Spectra Tanks, but I ordered mine through Rock Auto. Anyway, as you can see by the photos, they indexed the fuel feed line and return line pointing at a 45 degree angle towards the rear of the car, that’s issue number one. Issue number two was plumbing, and since I’ve read so much about today’s fuels and how they break down rubber lines, I knew I should be using PTFE spec lines which have an inner Teflon core. This obviously necessitates the use of AN fittings now, and I’ve never worked with making my own lines before. This stuff from www.pegasautoracing.com is top notch. Very easy to work with in comparison to my first attempt, “Push Lok” from Summit. I could never recommend that product again, and Summit must have loved that return.
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3038.jpg I bought 3 Swagelok fittings, two of SS-600-6-6An for the 3/8” feed lines, and one SS-500-6-6An for the 5/16’s return line at the tank. These are not cheap, but neither are gas leaks above hot exhaust. I did not want to get cheap on this part of the project, and ease of installation was very easy. Quick note if you ever try and source the SS-500 on-line, it won’t come up as a valid part number. Find a Swagelok dealer and call them, because they can get it. Plan for 5 days lead time. http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3039.jpg My feed line from the engine bay was ordered through Tube Tech, and he offered to take care of the pluming needs for the rear of the car, Corvette filter and everything. Just didn’t believe after all I’ve read that Braided Stainless Lines consisting of hose not made of PTFE material would be a good long term solution. I’m quiet please with the results and chosen path for routing along inner rear frame rail. http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3041.jpg http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3049.jpg http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3050.jpg The engine bay, air conditioning, radiator hoses, wiring, etc., all done. I completely rewired the charging system as well, and I can say with strong conviction this should be a very reliable system. Mark from MADD Electrical, www.madelectrical.com California is a great guy whom I’ve used in the past. We elected at this point in time to rewire the headlights too with relays, reduces the stress to the wiring and eliminates sending voltage all the way from the fuse panel. I’m excited to see the results of this. http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3051.jpg http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3052.jpg The ECM which came with this harness and engine (Regal Performance) is an odd looking duck, and there is no real quick way to mount this *******. I fabricated a bracket as seen below and mounted it upside down above the glove box. See pictures. This will require me to make a new inner glove box of course, but to me it seemed the best location. Harness had plenty length for routing to the passenger side of interior as well. http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3043.jpg http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3044.jpg http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3047.jpg Need to finish up the balance of wiring in the interior compartment, dash/gauges etc. I’m getting very close to driving this puppy, hope to fire it up by the end of March. Keep your fingers crossed!!! |
coming along nicely:thumbsup:
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Awesome, I hope you fire it up soon, Jon! :cheers:
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Nice work. It looks great nice and neat. Don't forget the video of the start up.
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Looks good! You made the right decision not using any rubber hose... I wish someone would have told me that - the first time around... would have saved me a little effort but, oh well...
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Thanks guys.
Yes, I will video the start-up.
And Greg, I beleive it was one of your posts about fuel lines which gave me the direction. As always, great web site for sharing project info. |
Your contributing with your update too.. Nice job on the bends on your exhaust.
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A very exciting day for me....
First let me address the question about gauge size. The gauges I installed were 3 3/8", and it looks like a 4" gauge would fit perfectly. Oh, well live and learn, and now someone gets to learn form this if you try and improve on the idea.
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3056.jpg 4" circle for fitment test. http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3059.jpg Dash Lights and gauge lights on. I like how this turned out. sorry for the fuzzy picture http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3061.jpg And now for the drum roll, today the motor came to life. Man these LS3's are cool technology. Unfortuanatly the cold air intake routing is not complete so the microphone pics of more from this giant sucking sound of air that any exhaust note, but once this is buttoned up this huge air pump is gonna put some HP to the pavement. The Z06 cam sounds mild now, but can't wait to hear the roar when I take it for a spin. Since she started up now it's time to finish up the interior re-install. Nothing like the nervous energy from a first time startup, and then she comes to life.:woot: http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s.../th_LS3055.jpg What a great day!!!! |
congrats on getting it running. I like the gauges.
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Very nice upgrade..... looks real nice!!!! I was wondering if u could tell me where did u get the fuel fitting on the feed side(out) of the fuel filter/regulator you showed on a pic. The fitting that is a push-on(3/8) on one side and a male -6an on the other. I am installing an LS3 motor I bought from Fesler on a 68 camaro but with an automatic tranny and can't find a fitting for the regulator. Thanks, in advance!:thumbsup:
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Fitting on Regulator
Russell makes them, do a search at Summit and keyword adapter.
For blue ones here's the part numbers. I still have these and need to return. 640860 640850 Somewhere in my box of receipts are the part numbers for the black ones, but I'm afraid to start searching that box.:lol: |
Congrats on the successful install! I appreciate all the detail on the project as I am about to get started on this portion in my car. I also got a LS3 and a fbody 6speed!
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The final phase.
Well, now I'm tweaking the little things on the interior side which have annnoyed me for some time. Reworked the drivers seat by moving it back some from stock position. 6'2 doesn't work so well in the factory position.
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3007.jpg The money shot for me, something about having it back together and so close to getting her done. :) http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3008.jpg The bigger money shot. Finsihed the air intake with components from Spectre, 4" diameter. Rubber 90 degree boot from the intake, one straight piece and two 35 degree elbows put the air filter nicely in the drivers side corner of the grill. I'm really happy with how the routing took place, am considering getting the two 35 pieces wleded together to reduce a set of clamps, and then painting the aluminum a matte black color. Something about the black stealth look I just kind of like. http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...g66/LS3009.jpg http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...6/LS3010-1.jpg Now onto the driving impressions. Super smooth on the highway, shifted into 6th gear around 65mph, hit 70mph and noticed the tack at 1600 rpm.:woot: I must have nailed the driveline angles becasue theres not a vibrtion to be had anywhere, I'm so excited. Motor is 3 degrees down and rear end is exactly up 3 degrees, perfectly canceling each other out. Still taking it easy on the break in, but must confess I got on it around 30 mph and this sucker just flat hauls ass now. I was grinning from ear to ear. I'll get another video made of the car running now with the hood back on and intake complete. The Z06 cam and dual Magna Flow exhaust sounds great IMO. |
congrats
:thumbsup:
I like the idea of welding and painting your intake tube ... sounds like you nailed the install....HAVE FUN !! tOM |
Awesome Thread!! Job well Done:thumbsup:
Overall were you happy with the motor from Regal? |
Regal Performance
Really pleased with the motor and transmission package, and great customer service too for my novice questions at times.
I would do it again without hesitation. |
Beautiful work! :thumbsup:
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Quote:
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Great Jon!
Does it need to be tuned, or is it good to go? |
Great Job!! :thumbsup:
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Thanks Everyone
Mark - I guess it runs so well some folks might argue to drive it and have fun. With that beig said, it is throwing a code for crank-shaft sensor, and for some reason the Auto Zone reader won't clear it. Mike over at Norris Motor Sports indicated I might have created that problem initially attempting to start the engine. Secondly, I'd like to verify Air/Fuel ratio, adjust if need be and get a dyno run recorded.
I'm taking it the first weekend in May. |
Your computer looks like the 24 tooth reluctor type like an LS1 would use. LS3's are 48 tooth. I'm no expert on this by far but do the LS3's use the wide narrow harness plugs like yours?
David |
The car looks great. Nice work.
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Great intake piping. I was trying to figure mine out but I might just do what you did. Did you just order all the parts from a local parts store?
-Dan |
Thanks guys
David - Good eye, that is a 24x tooth reluctor, Regal gives you the choice of either, and the number of 24x ECM's out there to support kept the cost down. The wiring harness they provided came prepared as you see it, total turnkey.
Dan - for the intake I ordered directly through Spectre in California. they've got a great web site. |
Quote:
You should be able to get your local chevy dealer to do it for you if you find a service writer that is cool and will hook you up with his technician. |
The car looks great, love convertibles! I underwent the swap post-restoration like you...
I've got my clutch pedal set-up just like you, with a tab welded on just like yours...what did you use to tie the clutch pedal to the master cylinder rod? I have a bolt in mine, and don't like it. It seems the threads on the bolt would cut into the bushing/washer on the master cylinder, and tear things up. I would like to get something with a smooth portion on it for the clutch rod, and then a spot for the nut on the end...any ideas? |
partial threaded bolt
Adam
Use a partial threaded bolt as opposed to a fully threaded bolt. This will give you a smooth shank under neath the hex head and keeps the plastic bushing from wearing prematurely. I also ground down the thickness of the hex head in half for clearance, it was clicking on the clutch/brake housing mount. Hope that helps you. Jonathan |
Final exhaust and Dyno results.
Decided to cost justify the welder a little more, ordered 3 more "U-bends" and fabricated the exhaust over the axle. Was able to re-use a little bit of the old tail pipe run as well, almost a necessity to fit the the tail pipe between outer body panel and leaf springs. Very pleased with how this all turned out.
A bonus as well, the exhaust drone was eliminated. Nice sounding exhaust now, very happy with the Magnaflows. Refined horsepower with "raspy note" when you get on it.:twothumbs http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...66/Dyno001.jpg First cut and weld of the "u-bend" http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...66/Dyno002.jpg This is the same piece but opposite side, heading for the dump over the leaf spring. http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...66/Dyno003.jpg Final joint and placement of exit. As promised, now onto the results. Drove the car from St. Louis to Indianapolis for Mike Norris to perform the final tune and Dyno. Overall the car was set-up fairly close, just a tickle lean. Mike completed his adjustments prior to the first pull, made a few more adjustments and competed two more pulls. http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...66/Dyno007.jpg Dyno shot. The cleanliness and organized shop says a lot about how Mike goes about his business. Highly recommended. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfX5v4-WIBA Not sure how else to post a video, so hit the link. Sorry! http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...66/Dyno009.jpg Final numbers. We have a small hesitation to remove from cruising speed/ acceleration, otherwise very impressed with the results. |
Very Nice! it sounds sweet.
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