Awesome build! I have been thinking about changing my interior to white as well. I bought camaro 4th gen seats that are white leather and i think it will turn out all right.

I've got some updates coming so I'll post up pictures as I go.

The car is getting the following:

KRE 260cfm Aluminum D port heads, bowl blended and port matched, 2.08/1.66 valves
Isky 224/232 @ .050 cam, .528/.533 lift with PRW Stainless steel 1.65 Rockers
Quick Fuel 735VS carb w/gasoline tune
Vintage A/C
Covan's Thunder Road black ABS dash insert
Auto Meter American Muscle gauges
Alpine CD player, 6.5" components in a set of Screamin' Performance fiberglass kick panels
DSE Wipers
Modo Innovations pedal cover set

I decided to get rid of E85 in order to run an aftermarket EFI system when my budget allows


WOOT! :unibrow:

Awesome car:thumbsup: Quick question about the steering. You said that you would rather go with the Camaro setup over the Firebird. Why? I ask becaus I bought a Camaro subframe last year and it came with all new components. I was thinking about using the steering setup, but noticed that the Firebird center link appears to be lower. Can you provide more details? Did you use the Camaro tie rods and the Firebird center link?

Thanks

I did so because it's easier and cheaper to replace the tie rods with Camaro parts in the event of a failure. I used a '69 Camaro centerlink, idler arm, and tie-rods. I used the stock Firebird steering arms and spindles (s/b the same as Camaro parts, the arms could differ but not likely). You will also need a '68 Firebird pitman arm because it's curved to fit around the headers. The Camaro pitman is straight and will hit the exhaust. The Firebird centerlink is not serviceable, meaning the balljoints cannot be repaired, you need a whole new centerlink if it fails. The Camaro part is just a bar with tapered holes for the joints, so much simpler. Plus, the Pontiac part is crap and was designed terribly. There is what is referred to as a 'tight' joint on one end of it to give it just enough play to not bind, but is not actually a balljoint, and that is the reason it's not serviceable. Using all new parts, the cost is about the same. I had the used Camaro centerlink and my steering arms and spindles powdercoated. Everything else was new. The '68 pitman wasn't cheap at around $130, but spending $300 on a '69 Firebird centerlink was less appealing, much less so dealing with a repair. This car is a driver, so it was worth it to make the change IMHO.

It sounds like the only change you need to make is the pitman arm.

It clears my stock as well as an aftermarket stock replacement oil pan. I am a little nervous about the Canton pan, but we'll find out soon enough.

Those upgrades sound pretty solid. I've heard a lot of good things about those KRE heads. I'll be interested in hearing how they turn out since I'm looking at doing a major overhaul to my 350 (stroker kit, Edelbrock or KRE heads, and other upgrades) sometime in the future.

And I would second the camaro steering setup (Thanks Josh for helping me out with that one). I'm just swapping my stuff over now and getting rid of the 20 some odd year old suspension rebuild.

Thanks, and you're welcome! I'm planning a trip to a dyno to find out what this thing really puts out. At this time, I think there are only two aluminum headed 383 Pontiacs in existence, so I'm real curious. The other one is in Iowa, he hasn't dyno'ed his either.

I'm hoping for somewhere close to 475hp. I really wanted to see 500hp out of a 354 Pontiac block, and I probably could with the cam I already have and a spacer on this intake...but it's pushing it on the street. I went with a smaller cam for better driveability at cruise and in traffic since I commute with the car on nice days. I went with 1.65 rockers though to net a higher lift than before to take advantage of these heads, which should support 550hp.

Thanks for the info. My main concern when looking at the parts was that the center link seemed to sit higher up on the Camaro setup. I did not realize that the pitman arm was different; I'll have to check it out. My entire Firebird subframe is in my backyard with all the steering components attached so I can compare the two. :cheers:

I think you should be able to get pretty close or achieve that. I saved this article HPP did a long time ago and got 462HP out of an iron head 383 pontiac.
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...ild/index.html
I would imagine with the better flow numbers out of the KRE or Edelbrock heads 500hp shouldnt be too difficult.

Progress!
 

I have been working diligently on the updates, boy, some of this stuff takes alot longer than it should!

I got the the old heater out, and the new A/C unit mounted under the dash. I used a factory style heater delete plate on the firewall instead of welding in a smooth panel. I think it looks clean, like it could've came that way from the factory, so I'm really happy with it. I used the formed hard lines that came with the Vintage Air kit, and the block off panel that came with the kit that goes on the inside of the firewall to help with noise and heat control. I covered that with dynamat on the inside. That piece was thick enough that I drilled and tapped it for some small black allen head bolts to fasten the heater delete plate from the firewall for a clean look.

I mounted my relays and circuit breaker behind the glovebox and above the evaporator. That way I can easily access my electronics by simply removing the glove box. I also mounted a two post distribution block there from Jeg's. I have the small post wired to 12v switched, and the larger one to 12v constant from the battery so I can easily add anything to the system in the future in a central location....like my ipod adapter/charger for the Alpine that is coming in the mail. I powered my DSE selecta speed wipers off that dist block also, using a relay. I have the original harness/fuse block in the car so I wanted to have a separate fused power supply for all my new accessories and stereo, etc.

I mounted my Covan's Thunder road dash with American Muscle series Autometer gauges, my Alpine CDA 9813 and two round vents that mimic the factory Astro Vents. I used '68 style vent balls because I like the two horizontal lines better than the crosshair style on the '69 bird. The hvac controls are the black anodized 3 knob billet ones from VA. Can't really see them in the pic. I had John Covan send me extra plastic so I cut that out to fit the new, smaller controls and glued it in from the back side to fill the rectangle factory hvac control hole. The dash already had a nice beveled finish on that edge so it blended real nicely, can hardly make out the seam in the shadows of the interior.

My Alpine has a built in tilt function, so that allowed me to bolt the stereo in flush with the dash so it's neat and tucked up without anything unsightly around it. I can then tilt it up to my preference once it's powered up. It's really slick. The old center speaker mount had a clip and bolt in it after I removed that speaker and it lined up perfectly with the stereo so I ran a strap of metal from the bolt in the back of the head unit up to that speaker mount...may slow down a thief, but surely secured the deck from moving around.

Everything is currently powered up and appears to work. I have to run the RCA's and speaker wire through the car then I can re-install the interior. I also picked up a set of Screamin' Performance kick panels that are molded to run 6.5" components. I'll be using a set of Alpine tweeters and Coustic drivers, and an old school Rockford Pro 12" Sub I had laying around.

The motor is at the engine builders getting the KRE heads installed and new cam, etc. He'll break it back in on his test stand and I hope to have a running car within a couple of more weeks.

Here's some crappy cell phone pics of the new dash and firewall. I have better ones on my digital camera, but haven't found time to download them yet.

:lateral:

Josh, it's looking great. Nice choice on the gauges, they really look nice with the rest of the interior. How long before the engine is complete? I might have to take a trip back out to see the car.

Thanks Rob! I was told it'd be a week to finish once he starts, and he would be starting it this week. So we'll see, but I sure hope it's soon now that the interior is about to go back in!! :yes:

I've made alot of progress, but haven't taken the time to snap many pics or download them, so I'll just post a few cell phone pics.

The car is pretty much complete other than the trunk detail. I also added the DSE fender struts, and some Ring Bros hardware under the hood, and eventually would like a set of Ring Bros hinges..lots of exposed bolts holding up the nose on the bird that could use a little dress-up.

One of my favorite touches was a set of billet 9mm locks, had to re-tap them to fit my car.

I put about 50 hours into wet-sanding and buffing the car prior to Car Craft last weekend. I started on the prior Saturday, and realized quickly that I was going to be short on time. In only got through the 2nd stage of buffing (swirl-mark remover). I intend on going back over the whole car with the extra cut compound since the hood was the last thing I did, and I perfected my method and realized the rest wasn't good enough. All in due time, it's time to enjoy the car, but at least now the orange peel and fisheyes are gone. :woot:

I used all 3M compounds and pads with a Makita buffer. I'll get some pro pics up of the final product when I get a chance.

Awesome. :cheers:

I can't remember if I asked you before, but where in MN are you?

The best change I've made is the new aluminum radiator and twin Spal electric fans with digital controller. I just got the install finished last night. It was running hotter than I'd liked (200-210*) and got especially warm at the Car Craft show where I had to pull over and let it cool down on the show grounds, which was not fun. Staring at my new Autometer temp gauge the whole time took alot of fun out of it.

Fortunately, my buddies tents were right next to Universal Parts Inc, an outfit out of Humbolt, IA that specializes in aluminum radiators with Spal fans. I got the whole set-up for $800, with the digital controller, relay, sensor, etc. I bought it on the spot. It's the best looking, and highest quality set-up I've seen for that kind of money. Fully welded, no epoxy.

Drove it to work today, and am very pleased. So much quieter and smoother without that big mechanical fan blowing. I was in such a state that I didn't realize the one I got was for an Automatic...it didn't occur to me that they may have a Manual version. Well, not much difference other than the fittings for the trans cooler. I am going to block them off with some plugs for now, but am thinking about turning it into a PS cooler...not sure if it'll be adequate for an oil cooler.

I'm in Rockford, just west of Plymouth.

Nice additions Josh. The 9mm locks are a nice touch. Where did you get them and where did you mount the piece that goes with it? :unibrow:

I see in the pics you have added AC. Does it get hot in MN? It's freakin hot here in TN.

Thanks for the pics. Hope you post more.

Thanks Ron! The locks are from Steeda for Mustangs. I thought they would drive the point home if someone was foolish enough to start fiddling with it. ;)

The thread is wrong, likely metric, but it's the correct diameter, so I figured there was enough material to just re-tap them, which I did and it works.

It gets very hot and humid here in the summer. Land of 10K lakes. It's in the mid 80's most of the summer and hits 90's now and then, but the real problem is the humidity. As they say, it's not the heat, it's the humidity!

I put about 100 miles on it yesterday just wandering the countryside aimlessly with the wife, and I can't express how much more she enjoys the car now. It got downright miserable without A/C last summer...stopping at every shady bench we could find. This year, we've reached a whole new level of enjoyment.

Even with the added cost of the new radiator and fans, my wife exclaimed yesterday that it was the best $2500 I've ever spent. :cool:

'69 Firebird
 

Josh,

The car looks great. I am in the market now trying to find a classic car and I came across your blog. How much are you selling it for?

Details here:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=28378

Edit: not really trying to sell it anymore, but if the price is right, everything is for sale. ;)

Nice mods Josh.

Your engine compartment looks good too.

Finally got the trunk splatter painted and installed my DSE battery mount and Optima red top. I found out the water based trunk paint takes FOREVER to dry. Also, my rear spoiler holes weren't sealed so I had to seal those.

Looks great Josh. You did put the clear coat over that water based paint right?? I'm getting close to the headliner install,hint hint.

Busted, no, I still need to clear it. I just did two cans of splatter and it isn't quite enough. I'm ordering two more cans today and then I'll clear it. How long did you wait before clear coating after you sprayed the splatter?

I've still got the clips I used for my headliner, so I can help you through that. It's not too bad, painting the trunk was worse. :cool:

I waited around a week. It took ever to feel like it was dry. Spraying the clear is not as esay as you would think. Or maybe it's just me. I had a hard time keeping the clear coat all wet with out having a cloudy overspray look. The clear just hangs in the trunk and then leaves a cloudy look on what ever was painted last. My final coat of clear was brushed on.