Its got to be the shocks. You need a set of new ones.

I swapped shocks and front springs from side to side and its still the same.....

I've got a call in to the insurance adjuster. I think I'm gonna see if I can find a collision shop with a digital rack that can check the car out....one that I trust with the car, which is gonna be hard.

I could easily put in a spring spacer, or do something to "compensate" for the tilt, but I'd rather find the source than
hide the "issue". I've looked over a bunch of pix I have of the car with good shots of the tire/wheelwell relationship and it was definitely different than it is now.

If all else fails, I'll do the coilovers.... I didnt realize they have bolt in ones for the stock subframe.... I have GW uppers, but stock lowers.

I think Fesler has a bolt in kit now too. There is a post on PT about it. Afco's and QA1's combined with remote reservoir. :thumbsup:

FWIW, I have nearly the same exact set-up as you, and my car has always been lower on the driver's side by 1/2". Drives me nuts. I wish it was the other way around, can't imagine how it looks with my 225lb ass in it as well. Crooked as a politician probably. I have Hotchkis 2" drop BBC springs in front, DSE 2" drop leafs in back, Koni's all around, Speedtech upper, and stock lower with poly bushings, welded in sf connectors and solid GW bushings. My car is dialed in, square as can be, new spring perches in the back, etc. Just the way it is. If you can get to .5", I think that's all you'll get out of it.

I want to switch to coilovers also, mainly because my car isn't low enough in front and it'll maybe fix my tilt also. Sometimes, you just gotta know when to hold em...know when to fold em...


Getting back to the subframe though. I have my suspicions about it for sure. The column mount doesn't really allow side to side movement, and even if it did, the rag joint is a long, long ways away from those bolts, like 2'. For you to move the rag joint 1/4", you'd literally have to have moved the column over about 2-3 inches (if the rag joint is the fulcrum) which doesn't seem likely. The only way for that rag joint to touch the header, is if you move that frame rail holding the steering box closer. If it was bent up a hair, that would effectively raise the spring pocket, thus lowering the car.

The alignment holes aren't necessarily going to show a slight twist in the frame, they will only prove that it's square in relation to the body/cowl on a horizontal plane.

Maybe take a plumb bob and line and see how far the tips of the frame are from the ground, both with and without the suspension loaded, making sure the car is level front to back and side to side.

This is probably way off, but shortly after I bought my 69 I noticed it too was sagging on the driver's side. I replaced all suspension with the hotchkis TVS system and it was still sagging. It was not until I cut out the rear panel and replaced it that I noticed the sag had gone away. I hope your unibody is not slighly swisted like mine was.

If it makes you feel any better, I found my axle tubes on the original rear end were dented on the top where they had hit the rear frame rails cause someone had probably done their best dukes of hazzard jump with it...I'm pretty sure this is what caused the twist in my unibody.

Could one or both of your springs be clocked wrong? That would bind a spring and cause a ride height difference.

Sell the camaro! that way you can finish the Cuda.

Which one!! :rofl:

Well sell the one that is making him stress. The other one is just a dust collector and isn't tilted.

I'd sell 'em both! Everybody has one... :rofl:

Its crossed my mind :)....but its such a bad time to sell a car.....

Finally got a chance to take the car to a collision shop with a digital frame table. Should have a report this afternoon...

On first inspection, the guy is pretty sure the driver side frame rail is probably "rolled in" alittle........ with the impact the suspension bottoms out.....bump stops slams into the spring pocket and the whole thing just bends in as a unit. That all makes sense....rag joint closer to header etc etc...... since everything moves as a unit, its hard to visually see where its bent.

If it is bent, its not worth trying to mess with the stock subframe......so as long as I can get the insurance company to agree, its time for an aftermarket subframe :)....so there may be an "+" side to all this....but a huge PITA to take everything apart. Especially since I have the Cuda taking so much of my time.

So....DSE, SpeedTech, AME......hum..... decisions, decisions......

I'd like to do it in a way that I dont have to chnage the BS on my wheels, swap brakes , headers etc etc....as simple of a "pull out the stock, transfer some parts over and put in the new" as possible.

Well the verdict is in....there are 3 hairline cracks and the frame is definitely "rolled in" at the top.

Now that the car has sat awhile, the crack have a small amount of rust in them and you can see them way better. They are hard to see with the suspension hanging, but if you push up the control arm to its max, you can see them open up just a tad. The tech is pretty convinced that the frame is bent inward too.

So....new frame it is.....now I just need to convince the insurance Co to let me step up to a DSE or SpeedTech set-up :)

More work...oh joy....

If it's insurance covered - let them pay for the swap! Start getting bids for the labor etc to swap it out... have them cut you a check for the bid amount - then do as you want to...

Just because it's messed up -- doesn't mean you have to do the work! And or - since they're NOT going to pay for an upgrade - the difference in saving the labor by you doing the work yourself - might get you the upgraded sub - making it "worth your while" to do the labor.

That... or maybe to save "summer" cruising - you could have the cracks ground out - welded and fish plated to get you by 'til winter sets in.

We'll see... I have sent out some PM's to get some idea of the labor charges etc. Anyone with shops in North or South CA that want to submit a bid, that would be awesome... the more stuff I have to show the insurance company the better.

The bare stock AMD frame is $1600 plus shipping..... then add tubular UCA/LCA, spindles ( DSE/Speedtech/ ATS stuff....with enough impact/stress to bend a frame, I dont trust the current pieces I have in there now), adds another $2500-3000.... so in the neighborhood of $4200...then add the labor.

As for the cracks.....not very easy to get to and the bottom line is that I just wouldnt feel comfortable driving it, even with a "repair".... plus, its still bent and the car looks funny......so this summer is over for this car......

ned, check you pm or call me