Moving right along!

ordered my master cylinder and prop valve this morning from performance online. about time!!!!!

finished wiring the dash bezel with the gauges and LED's in, now gotta do under the dash.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...g/e1a9ce52.jpg

for now It looks like I'll be using the stock seats, have to drop the drivers seat off at an upholsterer and replace the center section cause of a rip.

almost ready to go!!

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...g/af4854eb.jpg

Rene looks great! I had not seen the Aman digital guages (top of picture) available yet :) JK, mand looks very clean, how did you install the turn light Led's?

Gui

Just drilled a hole on the left and right side of the bezel and popped them in. They came in a small enclosure with a resistor already in there. Then just attach the negative to a ground and connect the correct wire from the factory plug to the positive side. I also put an led in for the high beam indicator, but that is installed where the factory one went.

Awesome thanks, looks very clean. happen to have a pic showing where the wire wil connect to? I am also doing gauges (mine are procomp I believe silver), but pretty similar.

hope this helps you out. this is the plug that plugs into the printed circuit.

left turn signal is #9, light blue wire
right turn signal is #12, dark blue wire
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...g/55fb877e.jpg


fuel tank sender is #1, tan wire
instrument lights are on #3, gray wire
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...g/c270cbde.jpg

Looks good,

Rene that is HUGE help thank you!

BTw removd teh LS1 and t56 from the Maro for the bird this weekend what a royal bear it was, over an hour spent fighting with the clutch line :)

They have a tool for the quick release fitting. its a pain without it sometimes.. I usually just remove the master & disconnect it from the pedals & leave it attached. I'm doing a 68 bird vert with LS1/4L60 right now. I'm almost done, but have put about 10 miles on it so far. Look forward to watching you progress on the swap!

Here's a vid of the LEDs working after I wired them in, must have done something right lol.



I probably did the video wrong, so here's the link.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UACCQ-HWfuM&sns=em

PS, what am I doing wrong for the vids not to show up properly?

Winner! That is what I ended up doing, still pretty tight space to push through firewall but worked in less than 10 minutes ugh! Have a link for the build?


Rene, LED's look sweeet!!!!

Click on the green film strip icon

It gives you a pair of UTUBE in [UT].

Paste the end of your address after the = sign (in your case, UACCQ-HWfuM&sns=em) in between the [UT][UT]

thank you Rob!!

oooohh ahhhhh, nice colors!!

Nice bird

K Guys, I really need some help. Got my master cylinder and prop valve in today, supposedly this is supposed to fit my car, but the prop valve hits the fender well bracket. I'm thinking I'm gonna have to fab up some kind of bracket, is this the best idea? nothing ever goes easy!!!!!! I also need new brake lines, as these all connect in a different spot compared to the last prop valve.

can this prop valve be turned and mounted with the side facing down? thats the way the original one was. Please help!!!!!!!!

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...g/d0423efb.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...g/e56d4f10.jpg

Would it be ok to mount the prop valve like this? I don't know if mounting it differently effects performance.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...g/bfe8526f.jpg

Rene,

I normally skip the prop valve bracket altogether.

Gui

I'm using a booster on my 69 camaro & 68 bird so the prop is a lot farther forward. I've havent seen that master used right up on the firewall before. Maybe do a little tube bending to get the bend closer to the master? I bent a few of my lines so they would line up with the master. The prop bracket was a pain to use but I bent the lines to mate up to it. Scott

you just let the lines hold it in place?

this master supposedly works with manual brakes, in fact they say that because it has a 1 inch bore that it makes the manual brakes feel pretty good. I'm feeling kind of deflated at the moment. I was really hoping for a simple plug and play kind of thing, but what was I thinking!!

I found a spot for the valve, now I have to wait for a buddy to come over and bend and flare new line

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...g/5b97ea34.jpg

That should work. I'm sure its fine with manual brakes. My bore might be different- it just looks identical to mine. Let us know how it turns out.

Ok, got the lines bent and flared, that's all set. I start to "bench" bleed the brakes on the car and the rod is making a clunking sound now, looks like the rod is too short. I re-used the rod hat was on the last master cylinder. Also noticed that the brake doesn't come in contact with the brake light switch now too.

Edit: you think this will solve my problem? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/SSBC-U...Kit,50351.html

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/...91001726_L.jpg

Ok, I orderd up the above mentioned pushrod, hopefully that solves my problem.

Rene,

I have in the past modified my stock rods depending on application. What MC are you using again and booster?

Gui

Ok, got the adjustable pushrod in yesterday and got it installed. still had the clunking problem, it ended up being the cap that goes onto the master cylinder that the pushrod passes through, I'm thinking to keep it in place, well there are reliefs on the top and bottom for the pushrod to easily move through at angles, but I had the reliefs going side to side, which didn't allow the pushrod to get the angle it needed. I finally removed the boot that was covering it to figure it out. I can't believe I took that damn thing off about 6 times, and each time I put it on the wrong way. Doesn anyone even know what that cap is called?

anyway, got that fixed FINALLY, and got the master cylinder bled. I'm now waiting for a friend to come over and help me bleed all four corners.

on a side note, I will be working diligently tonight and tomorrow replacing the plenum pan and gasket on the 5.9 in my Ram. so no firebird work this weekend.

I NEED HELP, cause I'm getting very aggravated! I bench bled the master cylinder, bent new lines to the prop valve, and hooked it all up. now I'm onto bleeding the brakes. I'm starting at the passenger rear. I borrowed a buddies nice mac tools one man bleeder, the kind you hook a air compressor to. I CAN NOT get a good amount of fluid to come out. its basically a very small amount of fluid with a **** ton of air bubbles, then I get nothing, this thing should be draining my master cylinder, and its not. WTF could be the problem.

Rene, tried traditional method? Also are you running a prop valve, and are you keeping an eye on the MC fluid level? Note you are going to get a lot of air out until the lines are full.

I normally do traditional two person bleeding. Did you also bleed the MC on a bench or on the car?

Gui

I tried traditional by myself, water bottle filled with fluid and a hose into it, with the same results. I am keeping an eye on the fluid level, it doesn't really seem to budge. I bench bled the master in the car. I must have screwed something up. Very frustrated!!!

How does the pedal feel when pressed, drops to floor fast, or holds some pressure\spongy?

What MC are you using again? And no prop valve or residual valve correct?

on the MC bleed on the car did you use an old line back to reservoir and pumpd until no more bubbles?

I would start by checking at the MC seems could be the culprit.

Doesn't seem to get spongy, even with bleed valves closed. pedal never seems to build pressure, and I don't see or hear any leak. I do have a proportioning valve, its a regular gm style MC and prop valve from performanceonline.com. I did use line back to the reservoir and pumped till no more bubbles, but it took me forever to get the lines bent properly that go to the prop valve, so I wonder if me screwing the fittings in and taking them off so many times that i have to re-bleed it again.

Got me thinking, when I first attempted to bleed the brakes, there was a leak around the line from the back reservoir to the prop valve, and i had tried pushing the pedal up and down for a few minutes before I realized it, I wonder if I loaded air back in the MC every time I released the pedal. I'll try bleeding the MC again tonight and see if thats the problem.

I dont see any pictures of the m/c and combination valve plumbed complete, you might have the lines plumbed incorrectly, sometimes these things are just stubborn to bleed, I have found that a large plastic syringe with a hose stuck on the end pushing fluid from the caliper to the m/c works great for getting air out, just make sure you are not pushing more air in, but first make sure you have the right lines going to the front and rear on the m/c, it happens more times than you think.

ok, my buddy came over and we had great success!! LOL. I just have to bend a new line from the front of the MC to the prop valve tomorrow, it was leaking just a bit. otherwise, I had a nice solid pedal after a 2 man bleeding.

Congrats, I was going to comment, but I thought I'd let you go for round 2,

So I got the brakes done and was going to attempt taking the car around the block. I got it out of the garage and up the street, but there was some banging or clunking sounds going on in the front end, I was going really slow too, I don't think I got over 10 mph. I'm thinking I have to make sure everything is tight again. I also haven't greased anything under there yet. Just another setback, thats the way this entire thing has been. right when you think you might be that close to getting it on the road, I have to take 2 steps back. but I was able to get it out and stop it, LOL.

yes I know the ass end is high, I haven't lowered that yet. gotta get the kinks worked out with the front before anything else.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...g/1199fe9b.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...g/b4edb89a.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...g/a93783d1.jpg

Hey it's almost there! Totally normal to have a few issues to iron out. Even the big budget builds go through a shake down period. I'm jealous of the fun that's just around the corner for you.

:captain:

They say it takes 90% of your time for the last 10% of project......;)

I've got an appt next thursday with my mechanic to do an alignment and for him to find the friggan sound in the front end, I can't seem to find it. I'm also gonna see if he can tune the motor in, its studdering when you hit the gas, I can't seem to fix that either. oh well, off to the professionals.

under the hood was pretty ugly lookin, so I power washed, cleaned, and rattle canned it today, came out decent, not perfect, but waaaaaay better than what it looked like.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...7C5B7386D0.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...7C6338EF80.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...7C6B7482D3.jpg

Nice clean and white!! looks good, have you been out driving around??

is it starting to cool down up there yet?? I was born in CT, love the change of seasons, not like what we have here!!!