Thats a nice setup on the front of the subframe connector. It has a fine detail look to it.

Gaps look real nice
 

Have not been there in a bit. Looks like it is coming along

I have several times :yes: . And on top of it, he is a good guy who does what he says he will do. How rare is that now adays?

Scott, You do a good job fabricating also buddy. :thumbsup:

John, car is looking great. Those gaps are NICE!

Great updates and great work on the body!:thumbsup:

Great updates

I've had the luxury of seeing Dan't work first hand while he was at Troys. I was alway's amazed. A car that no one every see's is the Toyota - it looked like a factory concept.

Your car couldn't be in better hands. Dan is a stand up guy and his work speaks for itself.

Not much of an update but it's something :). I went up Friday to check on the car and take some parts up. Last few weeks I've been trying to get some parts ordered and delivered before we can move forward much more. The "list" is shrinking. Excited to see the light at the end of the tunnel for this stage of the build.

The car looks fantastic. Dan and Dan^2(new help :)) are doing a great job. It's been moved to what I like to call the Nova wing of Holohan's Hot Rod Shop :rofl: . He's in the process of expanding and all that is in this wing is my car and a pretty solid '65 Chevy II that I'm sure has one of you guy's name all over it. Just give Dan a call hehe.

I'm so glad I opted to go this far with the sheetmetal to make it a solid foundation to build on. It put a hit in the build budget but every time I read threads about someone buying a car that "looks solid" just to later find out it was hacked up gives me confirmation that this was the right move. I also know there's no way in heck I'd have ever got it looking this clean with my limited patience and welding skill.

For this update there is a shot of the rear seat divider patches that were fab'd to fill in by the new tubs. Shots of the hood now setup with hinges and latch installed. I was sweating the hood since I haven't read much about the aluminum one being used but it turned out real nice and is plenty solid. Glad I went that route. Decklid has been installed and the gaps look really good even with all new rear sheetmetal. Should only require a little work to be better than OEM like the others will be.

I couldn't resist a pic of the 325/50 MT stuffed up in those fat new tubs :eek:. I had those for the street/strip build plan but they are too bad azz to not keep around. Gonna get them squared up and take measurements for the new housing.

Oh, and the last picture is of my newest arrival I got to help unload while I was there :D.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...t/backWall.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../frontHood.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...deHoodOpen.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../T56Magnum.jpg

The car looks great, and that last picture is pure sweetness!

John,

I got to see the car Sat. Its looking great. Gaps are very nice!

Been a while since I've had any updates but progress has resumed at Holohan's Hot Rods...

Kudos to Marcus at SC&C who helped me a ton with suspension decisions. Very knowledgeable on this topic. Very much worth the call if you want to understand the pros/cons of the various offerings. The G-link and Fab-9 have been delivered. Matter of fact the G-link shipped immediately. The Fab-9 was custom so C/A had to fab it up so that took couple/three weeks as was explained to me at time of order. No pics of install yet but maybe soon.

The T56 Magnum has been installed to begin the tunnel work. Well... there used to be a tunnel there :D
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...openTunnel.jpg

I'm glad I sprung for the nicer Speedtech crossmember. A really nice piece and fits nicely.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...rossmember.jpg

looking good John! What are your engine specs?

Very Cool.:thumbsup:

Not completely sure. I've got the motor that was built prior to changing directions. Forged, full roller, 13.75:1 comp, .030 454, Dart 320, etc. That isn't really street friendly though. I've considered using e85 which would mean for the most part I could run it like it sits. Not convinced yet on e85 though. I just know that at the moment that the most budget friendly way to go.

Otherwise it will be new pistons, cam and the 4.25" crank to make it a 489.

You guys have been a bad influence :yes: . The projects are just too nice and set the bar too high to chase. I keep changing things which destroyed the budget I had meaning this is gonna take forever. Part of it I guess...

legend
 

:thumbsup:
Nice thing is your metal fab is in the hands of
:hail: DAN HOLOHAN.
This car will be very nice and fab work worth every penny you spend at HHRS

Tom

I saw this car in person today!!

Super nice build!!

Holohan is a super nice guy!!

He has a shop full of cool builds.

Randy

I'm jealous. Due time, due time :unibrow: Maybe I'll get some updated pics from Dan "da fab man" this weekend if he made any more progress.

We need to get some build pics up of that '56 Olds he is working on. That is gonna be really nice. Love those Schott wheels. Maybe I'll grab some pics when I go back up.

Got a few update pics to share. Gaps are all complete now and looking good. DSE hydraulic clutch bracket installed. G-link bracketry has all been welded in.

I believe the quarter/sail seams are getting leaded soon and the tunnel fab completed and then she's coming home to 'Bama :yes: . Then me and the D/A are going to get used to each other for a bit so I can get some primer on it HA!

BTW, those trunk and floor pan welds aren't ground because I specifically asked Dan to not worry about wasting time grinding those pan welds. I can do that and save some money. Didn't want you guys to think that was normal Holohan work. I'm guessing that's obvious though from the other pics :cool:

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...tchBracket.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...assDoorGap.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...ject/gLink.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...ect/gLink2.jpg

Looks fantastic John. Clean fab work is a beautiful thing..:thumbsup:

hey John
 

Are you picking the car up this weekend?

Payton, that's the current plan. Hoping the weather holds out...

I have a friend coming in from Ky
 

We will be at the show Friday and head to Dan's in the afternoon. Then on to DSE around 5:00. Hunt me down or I will find you.

Hey John,

It was good to meet you and your wife at Dans open house. The car looks awesome. The trans tunnel turned out very nice!

Keep us posted with updates. Hope you have an uneventful and safe trip back to AL.

Man the fab skills around here are insane :hail:

Ditto Jay. We made it back yesterday afternoon safe and sound. Weather was great. Dan wiped down the bare metal with the Gibbs product he sells before we left so there wasn't any surface rust to speak of after the trip. That's what I was worried about.

Now I gotta figure out how to attack this thing next...

Time flies when you're having fun... Now if I could only slow it down so I could get some work done on the Nova :D .

Not much to report really. Picked up some parts I needed to get it mocked up to roller stage.

Got the new AMD HD cooling radiator support and inner fenders. Been so long since I had inner fenders I couldn't remember the fitment of all the overlapping pieces. I ordered up an assembly manual :rolleyes: .

Spec'd out and ordered up a set of Strange 35 spline axles with the Timken Set20 tapered bearings. Got the seals and bearings pressed on no problem. The wedding rings... no dice with my "little" 20 ton H-frame press. Just doesn't have the nuts I guess. I'll find a shop to do it. In hindsight I should've just ordered up the axles with the housing and been done with it. I just wasn't sure then on which diff I was running.

Went with the small 11" 4 piston Wilwood rear brake kit with the integral parking brake. Matches the fronts I had but nothing "pro-touring" cool with just plain rotors. I'm running manual brakes so I went with their aluminum master cylinder with 7/8" bore. Picked this stuff up from Justin@Scott's Hot Rods who was great. Stuff shipped right out.

I got a few hours over the holidays to unbox all the G-link parts and get it mocked up. It went pretty smooth and easy since the bracketry was already installed. The kit ships with 12" 200lb springs which I don't think are gonna work. They would require 2-3" of preload and even then I'm afraid it will ride too high. I'm gonna go with a 10" Hyperco I think. It looks like with the shocks within the manufacturer stated 13-14" minimum length at ride height and utilizing all the G-Link adjustments to lower the car, a 15" wheel lip is even with the fender lip. That's a pretty good height I think. When I get the 18" wheels they'll tuck some and that's what I'm after.

So the bad news... I was hoping to defer the cost of the center section for a while for cost reasons. Well after getting the rear mocked up I'm a little afraid the center might come too close to the rear tunnel. I'd rather know this now than later so I guess that'll be my next purchase. When that happened I stopped on the rear mockup since I'll just have to take it all back apart once the center arrives.

The other maybe bad news... exhaust clearance. I've always wanted 3" out the back. Thinking that just ain't gonna happen with the G-Link crossmember without going up and over requiring trunk pan mods. We'll see.

In the meantime I've moved on to the front suspension mockup.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...ink_Mockup.jpg

Well this build is coming along outstanding.Dan H.can really make the sheet metal do what he want's it's too.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Sounds like "Up and Over it is" Funny thing I was worried about the same thing. Then I realized it's just metal and do and get it over with and I will be some much Happier.

So have the Metal Master cut the floor and trim the tank and you will be super happy. Plus when your at a car show people are going to look in your trunk and see a cool funky floor and ask you is that stock and you can reply, "Is Now"

ps - the rear set up looks awesome.

If you always wanted 3" out the back then stay the course! A heck of a build not to have every detail as you've dreamed it.

Jeff-

I couldn't agree more. I am been struggling with 295's vs 335's and it's killing me. Don't skimp now as you will regret it in the end.

ps I am also struggling with the exhaust on my project. I love the looks of the Anvil Mustangs exhaust exiting in front of the rear tire. Since I am building a vintage TA Camaro it would make sense but I also don't want to be annoyed by the exhaust note.

so my Advise is to "Stay the Course"

You could always go 3" all the way back then go oval over the rear end then out to tips/etc.

Btw looks killer so far

[QUOTE=syborg tt;388678]I couldn't agree more. I am been struggling with 295's vs 335's and it's killing me. Don't skimp now as you will regret it in the end.

Marty well said, I skimped and it cost me double once I decided to go woth the 335 tire :mad:

Got some time Sunday to plug away a little more at it. Managed to get the Speedtech arms, Qa1 coilover conversion and Wilwood brakes mocked up. Went fairly smooth as you'd expect.

Really impressed with the quality of the Speedtech arms and specifically the powder coat. Very nice pieces. Embarrassed to say how long I've had those without taking them out of the packaging :rolleyes:. I apologize that you can't appreciate the coating due to the masking job I put on them to protect them during this phase :). I've been known to drop things here and there.

I'm not thrilled with the brakes but I've had these on the shelf so they'll have to do for a while. These are probably border line for any serious street duty.

The lower arms were a little bit of a challenge to get worked into place. I was prepared with the 1/2" X 4.5" all-thread and a couple nuts and washers though from having seen that mentioned on the forum. Works like a champ to spread the mounting locations on the subframe enough to work the arms in.

I've got a set of 10" Ridetech springs on order for the rear along with what I hope to be the correct Energy Suspension motor mounts. I'm thinking by early February I might have it sitting on wheels and tires :faint: . That's been a few years in the making. Then shortly after than I think the engine and trans will be back in place so I can get stuff setup under the hood.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...sionMockup.jpg

Had these on the shelf too from previous build plan. Awesome wheels for the strip and don't weigh anything. Couldn't help but throw them on for a pic :).
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...aStarWheel.jpg

BBC71Nova, Tried to pm you but your inbox is full. Shoot me an email when you get a chance. [email protected]

i wouldn't leave that tape on there for too long. That tape makes a mess if left on there too long or if moisture gets on it.

Espeically the white stuff - I've been there it's blue or gree for me

Ummm. Yeah it makes a huge mess. Don't ask how I know this :rolleyes: . I don't intend on this staying on too long.

Been a while since I had any updates. Mostly been taking my time and trying to save up some money for parts :).

So here's the run down on what's been happening.

-Changed my mind on the WaveTrac and went with the new Strange 35 spline S-Trac and their new aluminum thru-bolted Pro-HD gear case instead. Nice piece and worth the backorder delays. Chose the 3.89 gear set. Due to the difference in spline engagement depth in the diff I did have to swap one of my axles for a different length. Something to keep in mind. Lesson learned: just save yourself some headache and order a complete rear all at once. I ordered everything separately at different times and it was a little stressful with all the measuring, etc but it turned out good.

-Mounted up the 325/50-15 MT Drag Radials on 15"X10" wheels and they fit good. Tight fit but for occasional drag strip outing they'll be fine. No rubbing except the passenger's side very lightly rubs against the outer wheelhouse at full compression. Rear could stand to be 1/8" narrower each side but overall it's about as good as I could hope for.

-I'm still happy with the decision to go with the G-Link setup. Admittedly I was having second thoughts after reading some other threads. I think you have to be honest with what your plans are for the car. My car won't be super low but it will be as low as it could be without committing to replacing the entire transmission tunnel. The only issue I've had thus far is the fill tube for the Fab 9 hits the shock crossmember at full compression. I doubt this would be an issue with a 12 bolt.

-I've now got the trans and a mockup block installed. I need to modify the frame mount on the passengers side so the bolt will go through. This has been a huge pita. Should take just a few minutes to drop the engine in but not my luck. I'm in it for a few hours already. I guess all the repop/aftermarket mounts are to blame. I also had to open up the shifter opening from where the tunnel was replaced at the fab shop. The shifters are tilted to the driver a little but the hole that was fab'ed in was centered.

-I pulled measurements today so I can send my driveshaft off to Denny's Driveshaft to be shortened. It's gonna be real close to hitting the tunnel I'm afraid. I'm really hoping to not have to replace the remainder of the OE tunnel.

-Next up will be taking measurements for a radiator. I'm hoping to pick one up from C&R but if not maybe Ron Davis. I've seen a couple C&R setups and they are really nice.

These wheels I had are only 15". This is at ride height with the shocks at the minimum acceptable ride height of 13.5" eye to eye. This is using all adjust-ability available in the G-link setup. That is, tilted all the way in on the shock crossmember and the lower mounts in the lowest holes. This is a little lower than some I've seen so I assume it is due to the Fab-9 shock mounts having holes lower maybe.

I'm planning to run 18" wheels in the back so I should get a little tuck at ride height I think.


At ride height. Roughly 1" from rim lip to wheel lip.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...rideHeight.jpg

This is at full compression. Well, about .25" short of full since the fill tube is currently hitting :).
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...ompression.jpg

Sorry for the crappy pictures. I need another lens. Little tough under the car, on my back, with limited light and a 28-135mm lens :rolleyes: . I need one of those fancy lifts :).

Here is a shot of the fill tube on the Fab-9 hitting the crossmember. It is just hitting at full compression but enough that it must be addressed. Probably end up bending another crossmember that goes up a little closer to the floor or change the route it takes. I spoke to Chassisworks about it and they are aware of it but it seems to only be an issue with Fab-9 setups.

Notice the non-existent exhaust clearance. Might have to talk to the guys down the street at Goolsby Customs about raising the trunk floor or something :unibrow: .

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...ompression.jpg

Here are some pics showing clearance in some other areas at full compression.

There is over 1" of clearance at the frame rail.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...eClearance.jpg

This picture is a little misleading but there is a little less than 1" of clearance at the tunnel where the pinion is. The G-Link is basically allowing as much of a drop as possible really unless you want to mod the tunnel.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...lClearance.jpg

Here is a shot showing the clearance between the gear case and the body/floor structure above it. When I put in a little pinion angle and I remove the old pinion snubber mount there'll be enough clearance. However, again, IMHO this is as low as you could go without committing to modifying more sheetmetal for clearance. At least with a 9" setup like this. I suppose this case is a little beefier so maybe that is taking up a lot of the space.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...eClearance.jpg

Here are a couple pics of the center section. Car part pron :)

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../gearCase3.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../gearCase2.jpg