What tunnel modifications are needed with the DSE sub with and without setback mounts? What are the benefits?

A friend will be doing final paint on the car in Crosby, Tx. I was considering lizard skin actually. Would you prime and then leave the lizard skin for the finished surface?

From what I have been told, I will need approx 1-2" of clearance (on top) for the T56 to clear the tunnel, maybe a little to the bottom of the firewall as well. It sounds like it may be necessary with or without the setback mounts. When I mock it up next week I will know for sure. Plasma cutter on standby.

Frank, I read your post previously and ordered my mounts to work with the headers. Thanks for the heads up.

You are correct. Firewall and tunnel will need to be cut either way it will be minimal difference and also depends on which body mounts. The big difference will be drive shaft length and crossmember location 1.5" difference
I'm glad I could help, I'm currently working with DSE to figure mine out.

A couple of pics of the DSE Vaporworx Super Tank that came in last week. Headers and battery relocating on the way for next week.

Looking darn good there sir!!:yes: :yes: I see you've gotten the hang of posting the bigger pics now.:thumbsup:

Yep, got the pics down finally.

A little blurry on the second pic, these are the rear wheels.

JRI's
 

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/...7/IMG_1226.jpg


JRI's w remotes

Front Wheel pic
 

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/...7/IMG_1228.jpg


I found a pic of one of the front wheels. 18x10 on 275's

Nothing better than top-end shiney new parts :thumbsup:

Nice.

Nice
 

VERY nice build and parts:thumbsup:

Thanks for the comments guys. I went to Mascoat today in Houston, the company that makes Lizard Skin. I am impressed with the qualities of this product and I am going to try to shoot the car on bottom, inside, roof, door panels and trunk as well in the next two weeks. I am using both products, the sound and ceramic product.

I am really getting excited about working on this car. Hopefully I can take some days off work to get some thing done this month.

Didn't know Lizard Skin was based outta Houston. Where exactly are they located?

They are at 4310 Campbell Rd, Houston, TX. Its called Mascoat, I dont know if its made at that location, but it is definitely distributed from there. There was plenty on hand and they sell it direct. I was interested in looking at the final texture of the sound and ceramic products. They told me it would be best to do two light coats of sound on the interior and exterior and then inside with the ceramic for heat resistance. The have kit called a jobber kit, its comes a couple of different ways based on how much you need. It includes the spray gun as well. On my car I am going to purchase 4 gal of sound and 4 gal of heat. Looks like it will run approx $600 or so. I can hopefully start next week.

Hey Eric, it's me Jon from Houston... It is the same Lizard skin kit I will be using, one of their reps was really cool and answered all the questions I had when I stopped by..

Lizard skin
 

I sprayed the bottom of my car with Lizard skin. Seems like it sprayed better when it was hot outside. Also the sound control was easier to spray than the heat control. I couldnt get the glass beads to smooth out in the tight spots. It could have been my method though. Takes a little practice to get used to spraying. Waste a litte and get the gun set right on a piece of newspaper etc. If you began to use a partial full can, make sure to take the top part that has skimmed over out. It will get in the gun and cause you grief.

thanks Ventura, they makes sense. They did tell me to make sure the air temp and the metal surface is 70 degrees or better. He said that both could effect the outcome of the application.

DSE headers showed up today. WOW, the flanges and welds are rediculous. Pics to follow.

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/...Upmotor024.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/...Upmotor026.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/...Upmotor031.jpg

It's unreal how nice their headers are. :thumbsup:

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/...Upmotor029.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/...Upmotor030.jpg

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/...Upmotor042.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/...Upmotor043.jpg

Well, got the motor mocked up in the car, very, very tight fit. The back motor mounts from DSE get the LS engine about 1/2" from the firewall on the passenger side, driver side more clearance. Had to take the oil cooler off as well. Headers are an awesome work of art, we did have to trim one spot of each of the headers lightly to gain a little clearance on the ARP head studs, not a big deal. As suspected, we will need to raise top of the tunnel close to the back of the bell housing, my guess would probably be 1-1.5", 2" max. I ordered a Camaro oil pan today, 98-02 pan.

I have never had a six speed before and noticed the casting of the housing at the top leans a bit to the drivers side where the stick mounts. Curious to what others have seen and why this is made this way.

What did you have to do for the transmission crossmember?

T56s are a few degrees off counter clock wise. Nothing to be alarmed about. It's standard

I'm speaking in reference to the engine setback. Considering it for mine to give more room for turbo bits.

For the crossmember, its is just a tubluar crossmember that was a from a late model car. The cross bar was cut and moved back to keep from bending and dealing with more issues than needed. The bottom side of the crossmember now has a plate welded to it for a spacer to achieve the correct drive line angle. I will clean it up and make it look nice after all the mockup when i get to paint stage.

My plan is to shoot all the lizard skin on the car in the next two weeks and get my garage arranged to do wiring and plumbing and general assembly. I cant wait to hear this motor turn over.

Tunnel is in process of being raised.

It looks like I will also have to trim part of the back of the supercharger for clearance on the DSE wiper motor. I believe that they cast the back of it to protect the fuel rails and provide a little ear for a brack to act as a wire loom. It will need to be removed, still a snug fit but will work niclely.

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/...aroPics020.jpg

With the plates/spacer welded in on the crossmember to get the right drive line angle i picked up a little more clearance on the firewall. Everything fits perfect.