Thanks Sieg....great info :thumbsup:

I'll plan to use the stock Tremec shifter for now.... maybe try the Blackjack later on after the fix. My Muncie trans always leaked oil and I want to get away from that.

Yea I can't wait to get the new trans in. I ran about a dozen track days with the Muncie and never had any issues... the first time on the track with the new engine I seized up third gear on the main shaft... this caused the rear end to lock up at about 80 mph! Honestly I just don't trust the Muncie after that... time for some new technology.

I can't wait for that first time behind the wheel with the new trans :D

(ordered QT bell today)

For my engine we went with a 150 Amp Powermaster alternator… a billet aluminum alternator mount, and a 3-1/2” diameter billet aluminum 6 rib drive pulley.

The stock pulley on the Powermaster alternator was 2” diameter. The engine builder changed the pulley from 2” diameter to 3-1/2” diameter so the alternator would run at the correct speed when I am running higher RPM’s on the track. He also provided a 2” diameter pulley and a smaller diameter serpentine belt set up for street only use.

So far I have run the 3-1/2” diameter on the track and on the street with no issues. I did notice that when I’m in traffic on hot days with the electric fan running full time, the battery voltage drops slightly. Under normal driving conditions it's fine.



Billet aluminum bracket with alternator mounted high on passenger side of engine

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps914f5cd8.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psed6c5ed8.jpg


Here is a shot of the stock 2" diameter pulley in comparison to the 3-1/2" pulley.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8fdb4d5e.jpg

I have always had problems with the stock power steering pump boiling over when I do the HPDE events (makes a mess!!). For this build I upgraded to a KRC racing power steering pump and billet aluminum mount. The KRC pump has a 6-1/2” diameter pulley… my stock Chevy power steering pump had a 5-1/2” diameter pulley.

So far I have done one HPDE event with the KRC unit with no problems (no boil over). My educated guess is that the stock unit is not designed to run high RPM’s for extended periods. The speed of the pump is too fast and that creates extra heat. The KRC unit is better suited to running at higher RPM with the larger diameter pulley. This slows down the pump speed which helps to reduce power steering fluid temps. So far so good...no leaks the last time out.


The power steering pump is mounted high on drivers side of engine.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psda8ef800.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps54c22e8c.jpg


Here is a shot of the 6-1/2" diameter 6 rib KRC pulley. The mounting bracket was made by the engine builder.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps62fdefeb.jpg

Welcome to the site! Great car--and the motor sounds sweet---especially for an LS motor. I think you will find a more responsive audience here, especially since it's a 69 Camaro---we only have a few of those on this site.

Looking forward to more updates and some additional track photos when you have them.

Doug

Thanks Doug!


Here is more detail on the 4-barrel TB set up. The throttle body is just an air valve on this set up. The fuel is injected into the intake ports on the heads through the injectors mounted on the base on the single plane intake.

We used a FAST 4-barrel TB on a GM LS7 single plane intake. The butterfly's open inward on the primary and secondary side, and are manually controlled rather than drive by wire. The arm on the TB has multiple mounting positions so you can control how fast the butterfly's open. I built a custom throttle linkage setup that attaches to the stock Camaro accelerator pedal. This worked out well...the throttle has a good progressive feel and does not come on too fast and is totally adjustable.

The FAST throttle body has a TPS (throttle position sensor) and IAC (idle air control) built in. We installed a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor inside the single plane intake and an IAT (intake air temp) sensor in the air cleaner base. The engine is set up with a speed density tune.



Homemade throttle return spring bracket mounts to the front two screws on the TB.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psd00e802d.jpg


The homemade throttle linkage (red rod) connects to the stock Camaro gas pedal

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8cc072fd.jpg


"idle air control" on the left, "throttle position sensor" on the right

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...pse14d24b2.jpg


Here is a shot of the "intake air temp" sensor in the air cleaner base

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...pse5bf4ade.jpg


The bell housing for the T56 is being delivered tomorrow. This weekend I plan to start on the trans swap (muncie to T56 Mag)

:cheers:

We used FAST 58# injectors for the port fuel injection. The engine builder machined the GM LS7 intake to accept the injectors and made some custom mounts for the fuel rails. We found out later that GM sells a LS7 single plane intakes with the injector ports already machined. This would have saved some time if we had known.


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps87e99356.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8d02fe79.jpg


I used GM truck coils for this build. The truck coils have aluminum heat sinks to help dissipate heat.... a nice feature.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psa45d3093.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psf628e60b.jpg


I made a custom bracket to mount the GM truck coils to the Katech valve covers. The brackets are thin gauge steel and were cut out on a laser and then formed... I plan to make a new set from aluminum and then either polish or have them anodized red to dress it up a little under the hood.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps44118bab.jpg

Dale thx for posting. Not much info out there on conventional intakes on an LS motor. I doubt you'll max out your inatke air requirements (KPI?) with that set up :thumbsup:

Thanks Ron. It’s fun to try something different and I’m glad to share the info here. I couldn't be happier with the single plane set up on my LS engine, no regrets.

The LS style intakes work great... but the single planes also work well when set up with the right parts. No problem with air flow on this set up.

T56 Magnum install
 

I started working on the transmission swap from the Muncie 4-speed to the T56 Magnum this past weekend. I have had a lot of issues with the Muncie lately and can't wait to get the new trans in (oil leaks & syncro problems)

I bought a kit from Hurst Driveline Conversions that included a T56 Magnum close ratio trans, cross member, speedo cable, and some wiring. When I bought the ZR1 clutch kit it came with the clutch, aluminum flywheel, and a GM hydraulic slave cylinder.

TUET11009 Tremec trans

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psd67d8571.jpg


GM slave cylinder

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps86e50fcc.jpg


Quick Time steel bell housing, Hurst cross member

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3f244a34.jpg


I'm planning to use a GM clutch master cylinder and a mounting bracket on the firewall. Not sure which GM clutch master to use?

Also, I'm wondering what to do about the reverse lock out mechanism that is connected to the Muncie trans. The lockout is set up so that when you put the car in reverse and turn the key off, the steering wheel locks. Not sure how to handle this.

Any help with these questions would be appreciated, Thanks :thumbsup:

:lateral:

Dale you're going to love that tranny!

Call Jim Goodlad @ Hurst Tech, he's the previous owner of the original company and a great guy. He should be able to give good honest guidance on the clutch master. He also own's a '69 Z28. :thumbsup:

I don't have any trans lock-out connected and the column lock still functions. Here's a pic that shows the position of mine (original automatic car) in a position that works........at least when I shut the ignition down when the fire erupted I could still steer! http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-X...XSjWZSK-X2.jpg

Very Nice Dale.

Thank you Wayne


Thanks Sieg


Here is a picture of my steering column lock tab and the rod that comes up from a pivot mount on the sub frame. Maybe I just disconnect the rod and then anchor the tab so it can't rotate.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3b1c8a43.jpg

Looks like mine is higher than yours in that pic. Anchoring wouldn't hurt, I've never touched mine in 20+ years.......But my header bolts are safety wired! :sieg:

Experiment and see how it functions. :thumbsup:

Sounds like a plan... Thanks Sieg :thumbsup:

(I can't believe you have you own smiley... nice)

He's pretty.... um.... special... around here. :peepwall:

Today I talked to Jim Goodlad @ Hurst Tech to get some help. Jim said the rods that connect from the Muncie trans to the tab on the steering column (reverse lockout) should be removed and stored. The function of the tab on the steering column is to lock the trans in reverse until the key is turned on. The tab on the steering column does not have anything to do with locking the steering wheel.

The steering wheel lock is controlled by a pin that is actuated with the key.... so no worries about the tab on the steering column causing the steering wheel to lock. He did say that if the tab was in the wrong position it would prevent the key from turning to the off position. This guy really knows his stuff.... you're right.

Also... Hurst has a hydraulic clutch kit for the 69 Camaro that has billet aluminum mounting bracket for the clutch master, and all hardware to do the swap from mechanical to hydraulic. Hurst has been great to deal with... kudos to them.

Thanks for the tip Sieg :thumbsup:

Cooling the engine
 

I’m taking a break from the transmission install… the temps have been below freezing all week (must be nice to live in California :relax: ). This weekend when temps warm up (40’s) I’ll pull the Muncie and get started on the swap to the T56 Magnum. Today I ordered the parts to do the swap from the stock Z-bar mechanical clutch linkage to a hydraulic set up.


For cooling the engine I used a single electric fan setup and a Be Cool 28” x 18” aluminum two core radiator. The fan is a Ford Lincoln Mark 8 type with an output somewhere around 3,500 to 4,000 CFM. I used the original 69 Camaro fan shroud that came with my car, and fabricated an adaptor bracket to mount the electric fan inside the stock shroud. This set up worked great… I drove the car this past summer in 100+ degree weather in traffic and never had any issues with over-heating. The Ford electric fan has an S-blade design and is super quiet… very nice. The fan is triggered to turn on at a pre-set temperature programmed into the GM ECM.


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psbef33471.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...pscdc19930.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psd3bffba3.jpg


For a side project I made some aluminum billet wheel centers for my Vintage Wheel Works V-45’s. I didn’t like the tall plastic ones that came with the wheels.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5ae46265.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...pse46f4605.jpg


I used stainless steel fasteners to attach the wheel centers... they need a little more polishing.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psdf29d6a5.jpg

Here's another item that wouldn't hurt cooling, I'm ready to pull the trigger on one.

The other "trick" the Steilow use on Red Devil but not on Mayhem was this set up: http://www.techafx.com/content/1969-...nt-spoiler-kit

I built my own, pics are buried somewhere in my thread. :D

Did you make those centers or have them machined?

Like the fan set-up :thumbsup:

Thank you

I like the spoiler design... the open center would get more outside air moving through the engine compartment... good idea. I'll check back in your thread for the one you built.

I made the centers myself... turned them on an engine lathe and then used a bandsaw to cut the outside shape... then filed and sanded the edges by hand. It took a lot of time to make 4 of them.

I sit behind a computer all day so it's good to get out in the garage, work on the car and make some things :thumbsup:

Found it: https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...2&postcount=37

Old school fabrication is good therapy. Nice work! :thumbsup:

Hi Dale. I'm actually installing a T56 Magnum into my '69 next month(on a BBC), so we're in the same boat. I have the transmission and the same bellhousing as yours sitting on my garage floor also. I went with a Speedtech crossmember and I'll be using a Centerforce DYAD clutch. I have the Keisler/Wilwood master cylinder and firewall mount. You can see pics of that in my build thread. I've been told that the GM collar and hydraulic throwout bearing will work fine for my application, similar to what you have. When you ordered your ZR-1 kit, did it have individual part numbers for the hydraulic throwout bearing and collar? If so, could you share them? If not, what was the part # on your clutch kit? Thanks in advance for anything you an share on that.

I look forward to your write-up about this installation. I'll being doing a similar write-up so maybe we can compare notes and help each other out.

I think I finally found the part number on that slave cylinder. It's 24237569. Not sure if you thought about this, but I've heard remote bleeder lines can be very helpful when dealing with these hydraulic setups. I found a few sources for these that plug into this particular slave cylinder in case you're interested:

http://www.texas-speed.com/p-3051-ti...FawWMgodaGwALQ
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_10...m/viewall.html

Chris, Thanks for the information on the remote bleeder line... I will definitely go with that set up. The part number for the ZR1 clutch kit I bought from Katech is KAT-A6184. The part number you listed for the hydraulic throwout bearing is correct. This throwout bearing is shorter to allow for the extra width of the ZR1 twin disc clutch. I took a couple pictures that show all the numbers on the GM throwout bearing that I received with the clutch kit. This weekend I should find out how the stack up comes out.

That would be great to compare notes as we go along on our builds... I will be following your thread :thumbsup:. Also, I have some pictures of a cold air intake that I built to draw air from the outside through the cowl induction hood that I will post up later.


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6ab265ea.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps431dcabb.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4aac12bf.jpg

Nice job on the spoiler modifications on your car... that's a great idea. Do you have any pictures looking at it from underneath? I was just wondering how wide the air gap is in the center of the spoiler. Sounds like it helped reduce the temps under the hood quite a bit.

It dropped the temp roughly 5-10* in our weather. The opening is 25.5" close to the outside edges of the turn signal lenses. A closeout panel/show panel should improve cooling by channeling a little more are through the radiator. The fiberglass screen material on the backside of my grille is to minimize bug splatter. This pic should give you reference points:
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w...-wsNBXmx-L.jpg

Sieg, Thanks for the details on the front spoiler mods... and other ideas you've brought up... I appreciate it.


The past few days I have been reading up on the build threads here at Lat-G. Lots of good stuff going on here.... great site :thumbsup:

Tomorrow the Muncie is coming out and the T56 Magnum is going in :D

If you pull that off "tomorrow" :bow:

PS - I don't recommend using a crowbar to lever the subframe down to fit the cross member. :sieg:

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-z...-z9WHmLs-S.jpg http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-r...-rVwCMxw-S.jpg http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w...-wrtmnp9-S.jpg

Trans swap
 

:sieg: That's a nasty cut... I made it through the day with no wounds :)

Made a lot of progress today... but ran into some fitment issues installing the new trans. I started out by removing the driver and passenger seats and the center console. I wanted to be prepared in case I had to modify the tunnel.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4374738e.jpg


Next I pulled out the driveline, crossmember, and the Hurst shifter.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psa0d6c1fd.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps265987c6.jpg


This is a shot of the cutout as the car came from the factory. They used a torch to cut the hole for the shifter. The writing with the white marker was done on the assembly line. I bought this car 30 years ago from my parents neighbor who bought the car brand new. I was the first one to ever take the console off.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psdd18ff95.jpg


Next I pulled the Muncie trans out. I use a transmission jack with a custom made wood support that keeps the transmission from rotating. I have taken this trans out so many times because of clutch problems, oil leaks, and syncro problems, that I rigged this up to make the job easier.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psf9416bcb.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5bec3b86.jpg


This is a Muncie trans with an Autogear Supercase. The Autogear case has needle bearing pivots for the shift linkage pivots, a thick cast iron mid-plate for extra bearing support, and a thicker casting in front for more bearing support. This case is designed to handle more HP than a stock Muncie.

Unfortunately the internals failed this time around and I siezed up third gear on the main shaft the first time out on the track with the new engine. I have spent so much money modifying and fixing this trans that I could have paid for the new T56. Anyway... I am glad to finally have the new trans. It will be nice to have the new technology, crisp shifting, and the overdrive gears for some longer road trips in the future :D

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psb0f47742.jpg


Here is a shot of the bell housing... I lowered the engine down in the back and was able to reach all the fasteners to remove it.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psf0f46c1d.jpg


This is a shot of the ZR1 Corvette clutch.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2a872e0f.jpg


I have more coming on the problems with fitment

:cheers:

Yesterday I ran into problems installing the new transmision. The dimensions on the new set up do not match the old set up. The distance from the face of the bellhousing to the face of the throwout bearing are different by about 7/8". There is not enough clearance for the clutch to clear the new throwout bearing.


Here is a picture of the old set up with the mechanical throwout bearing

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps09c2ae09.jpg


Here is the new set up with the hydraulic throwout bearing

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps81c5165f.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6bbfd9a4.jpg


Here is a picture from under the car that shows the depth of the clutch from the back of the engine to the tip of the fingers on the clutch. The measurement is about 4-1/8"

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps42d09ae1.jpg




This is a picture from the face of the bellhousing to the face of the hydraulic throwout bearing pushed back as far as it goes. I'm not sure what to do now? Either the bellhousing has to be spaced out or I need a lower profile hydraulic throwout bearing. I'm not sure why the stack up didn't work. The throwout bearing in the kit was supposed to be sized to work with the ZR1 twin disc clutch.

It seems like if I could space the bellhousing out about 7/8" this would solve the problem.

Any thoughts or ideas on what to do would be appreciated, Thanks.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psa110c14f.jpg

I re-positioned the Tremec shifter to the forward position... so I removed the shifter.

Now I can see how the aftermarket shifters that don't have any seals would leak oil. In the forward position the shifter is directly above the gear and would have a direct spray of oil. I'm suprised they would have designed and sold a shifter with no seal :headscratch:


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1b562585.jpg


Here is a shot of the Tremec shifter from underneath. This shifter has a nice designed oil seal.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psc2c609d4.jpg


I went with the forward position so the shifter would fit through the console.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps99c6c577.jpg

I have a completely different clutch but this may be a solution
http://bowlertransmissions.com/p/440...ing-adjustable. I think if you start using spacers between the bell housing you may have pilot bearing issues.

Dale,

Here's a couple hints on the stack issue:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...&postcount=212

https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...&postcount=216

If you pull the TO bearing off, does the transmission install properly into the pilot bearing? I'm going with the DYAD clutch and I'm pretty sure the deck height for that clutch(crank to fingers) is about 3", so if you're ZR-1 clutch is about 4", I can see where you'd have that 7/8" clearance difference. It does appear in the links Sieg provided that that there is a bellhousing/trans spacer for your situation, but that pushes your transmission further back and could cause other fitment issues. Just more fun with putting these darn things together. Can't wait to try to put mine in soon.

I'm not sure if Mark built that spacer for Mayhem or how they handled the pilot bearing/input shaft depth issue. My guess is he'd help if asked.

This is getting a little confusing... but it looks like there is a solution to make the T56 Magnum transmission and ZR1 Twin Disc clutch fit properly using the GM hydraulic throwout bearing (pn:24237569) and the GM pilot bearing (pn:12557583).

Here is a picture of the set up on the bell housing with the Muncie transmission. This set up was installed in the car and worked perfectly. This is a picture of the relationship between the end of the input shaft on the transmission and the flange on the bell housing. The dimension is 3/16”… this is what worked. At this dimension the input shaft on the transmission slipped into the pilot bearing about 3/4".

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps892180d0.jpg


Here is a picture of the new set up with the Quicktime LS bell housing and the T56 Magnum transmission. The dimension from the end of the input shaft on the transmission to the flange on the bell housing is ~ 1”. If I use the 0.850” thick spacer from D&D performance that Mark Stielow on Mayhem then everything works… the distance from the flange on the bell to the end of the transmission input shaft goes to ~ 3/16”. The input shaft from the T56 Magnum will be the correct length to fit into the pilot bearing, and the GM hydraulic throwout bearing will have exactly the right clearance in relation to the tip of the fingers on the ZR1 twin disc clutch.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps05ed3ea7.jpg

Each combination of parts always requires a little head scratching… but it looks like this solution will work.

Chris, if your clutch is about 3" thick then you can use the same parts minus the 0.850" spacer, as long as there is no difference in the position of the pilot bearing between the Gen I and Gen IV engines.


Thanks Tim & Scott :thumbsup:

That is weird. Your LS bellhousing(RM-8020?) is supposed to have the same depth as mine(RM-6023) for my BBC, which would be 5.555 inches. However, I just went out into the garage and measured the depth on mine and it's exactly 6.0 inches. So I'd like to send a big shot out to Quicktime for providing incorrect specs on their bellhousing. As a result of this extra .445 inches of depth, the input shaft on mine only sticks out about 5/8" past the bellhousing, and it would only be about 1/4" when I add the engine plate. So that should be okay for me when I mate it to the engine and pilot bearing. If it's too long, I can file down the shaft slightly. However, for you, it seems like you'll need that spacer in between your transmission and bellhousing. Hope it's not too pricey and is readily available. If the shaft doesn't quite reach the pilot bearing, I believe there are 'extended' bearings.

I do have the Quicktime RM-8020 bellhousing and it measures 5.55”.

If I can get the 0.850” spacer from D&D Performance then everything will fit together. The input shaft on the T56 will slip into the pilot bearing about ¾”. Hopefully I can get one…. I’ll find out tomorrow. I think I'll have to shift my engine forward about 1" now. Hopefully your install goes smoother.

After that first drive with all the new stuff all the problems are forgotten... Good luck getting all your parts to fit together :thumbsup:

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6829a3cf.jpg

Today is a good day :thumbsup:

It's Friday... I have the next two days off... and the last of the parts I need to continue the T56 install showed up on the door step :D

Today I received the billet aluminum spacer that goes in between the T56 Magnum and the Quick Time bell housing. This spacer was needed to allow for the extra thickness of the ZR-1 Twin disc clutch. The spacer has dowel pins and fit up perfectly to the QT bell and the T56 Mag trans. The spacer is 0.89" thick.

I checked all the dimensions with the spacer installed, and the play between the clutch forks and the hydraulic throwout bearing is perfect... and the input shaft on the transmission will slide into the pilot bearing on the crank about 3/4".

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps59d26fe8.jpg


The dowels pins align the spacer to the bell housing. The dowel pins on the transmission align with holes on the other side of the spacer. The spacer is designed to keep all of the parts in alignment.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psda2653c6.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0af20982.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps986fcf84.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps26d7231f.jpg


Here is a shot of the GM ZR-1 hydraulic throwout bearing with a remote bleeder (4ft long) attached. The guy that did all my plumbing for the dry sump pump made up the remote bleeder from parts.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...pse7deba22.jpg


Earlier in the week I received the kit to convert from the mechanical Z-Bar clutch set up to the Hydraulic clutch.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0cb54504.jpg



The remaining issues to deal with will be the tunnel mods and cross member mods. The spacer will push the trans back an inch so I'm pretty sure the crossmember won't fit.

:cheers:

Looks like you're on a roll Dale! :woot: :woot: :G-Dub:

Thanks Sieg.... how is the engine tune coming along?