[QUOTE=Streetking;502202]I look at those pics and think wow that it great then I see the car in the nose on the lift is completely ahead of the axles. I have no idea what he is towing it with but that is alot of tongue weight.

Mine is an Interstate trailer from 2002 and it has a lot of miles on it, still in good shape only issue is the inside wood panels strips have started to come off but no big deal I have not had any problems with it and it does not get babied at all.

but if you can swing it. get at least a 24 the 20 WILL be too Small!!

[QUOTE=clill;502220]first 24" trailer I have EVER seen that holds 2 cars lol

I too have a 24' its perfect. I would not want smaller, but I would like larger to fit two cars.

As stated a winch is a must!! I don't own an open deck but I borrow them and those too are a must. You can move things on the open that you can't move in the enclosed and vice versa.

Here in Vancouver we get a lot of rain so one that doesn't leak is ideal. Mine seemed to find water through the seams and floors. Had to refloor and reseal the whole trailer and rewire it. Oh and new tires and new bearings.... which had to be done on the side of mountain hwy!!! Now I keep and extra set with me.

Good Luck in your search.

Thanks Vince I emailed the guy with the 24' one with lift.

I'm thinking those aren't full size cars, dwarfs or mini stocks. Cool trailer though.

thats a nice one too cause it has the gate extension. Low car must.

well it's been said a few times....GET A 24. I love it, you always have extra stuff to put in it besides the car.


Oh ya, Lojak stashed in a trailer is a great way to make sure you KEEP it.
My friend had his recovered in 24 hrs stashed in a large property. They would have never found it. The D-bags were parting it out for the metal.

oh and the cops found a few other hot cars while they were recovering the trailer

That's the trailer I'd go for over the used race car trailer!



Another thing just for info ----- winches in trailers only have to overcome the ROLLING weight of the car --- they're not pulling you out of a ditch or up a hill.... so 10,000 lb winch is ridiculous overkill for what we're doing... look at the rolling rating on them if they have one. I think my winch (gave the trailer away to my brother in law or I'd go look) was an "off brand" (meaning not a WARN) 8,000 lb -- only because the dealer didn't have the 6,000 lb in stock at the time.


If you're so inclined as to have a Honda generator - you COULD buy a 110V winch and run it off the gen set.... eliminating a battery. Just info to think about again - but 99% of the set ups I've seen all have a dedicated battery for the winch in the trailer. THEN YA GOT TO KEEP IT CHARGED if you let it sit for long periods.... or when you go to winch something on it's dead. It should be charging off the tow vehicle when towing.... but some batteries don't hold a good charge when sitting around in cold temps etc for months at a time.

Used ones seem to be the same price as brand new ones?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8284-NEW-Enc...item35cab7cf16


Jeff-

That's why I put one of these on mine http://www.batterystuff.com/solar-chargers/BSP60WK.html

I have the Interstate Supercoach they have listed for 12K and talked them down to $7500 out the door. Great trailer so far......all exterior lights are LED, two interior lights, and exterior loading lights just above the rear door. I disagree with anybody that says 20' isn't long enough. I have plenty of room up front for loading tools, air tank, three 5 gallon fuel cans, chairs, table, cooler, canopy, etc, up front and if I wanted to build some cabinets up front I could do that also but don't find it necessary as I'd rather not be towing that much more weight. Just to get an idea of how much room is left up front the front of my car stops a bit past the door in the first pic.

http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...trailor001.jpg
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Having just went through this I'll chime in on my experience and a couple of observations.

First off - and most frustrating of all - if you are on the West Coast (or Canada) you are going to miss out on some great deals. If you look at Racing Junk or Ebay (or listen to about 80% of the people on the forums) you'll see a ton of awesome looking trailer for sale at dirt cheap priced. None of which will be anywhere near you. Then when you look locally you'll gradually become more and more frustrated that you're paying at least 2K more than what anyone in Wisconsin would even consider to be a good price. That's just reality.

Second - size - I think that the sweet spot (depending on your truck and your trailer towing tolerance) is 24 feet (for an enclosed). 20 feet will work but you lose flexibility for carrying extras and the like. 28 feet is oh-so-tempting but it is a lot bigger than it seems (that said I know of a great deal on a 28 in CA that I was sorely tempted to act on despite being convinced my truck would have been too small). Focus on 20 - 24 feet.

Third - capacity - 3500 pound axles are probably too small 8 times out of 10. Figure that your trailer (at 24 feet) will weight 3500 pounds +/- meaning that you have 3500 pounds -/+ of rated capacity left. You'll see some axles rated at 4950 pounds (9900 pounds total) but they are really 5000 or 5200 pound axles derated to keep the trailer capacity below 10,000 which has some extra DOT implications for the manufacturer. At 10,000 pounds you have 6000 + of capacity which should be more than enough.

Fourth - layout and accessories - there are ton's of cargo trailers with car hauler options and (by and large) they are all the same. Some have better plywood on the inside and some move the breakaway battery around but beyond that I didn't see much (amongst like manufacturers) - at least until you get to actual "race car trailers" like a Haulmark Edge or the like. So when looking try to find something where someone has already invested in some goodies but, at the same time, be mindful of the effects of those goodies. The 24 with the lift looks cool but I have to wonder how much weight that adds. E-track, O-track, cabinets, spare tires, insulation, lighting, walls, ceiling, floor, shore power, generator, winch, etc. - get as much as you can for your money.

If I had not bought a trailer I would be really looking hard at the Pace - good brand, perfect size, looks like great condition and a fair price.

I wound up with this one - a 24 foot Blaze with 4900 pound axles.

http://www.onelapcamaro.com/2013%20m...%20trailer.jpg

I will be adding a load leveling hitch and a RideTech TowPro setup to balance things a bit better.

http://www.onelapcamaro.com/2013%20m...ing%20back.jpg

It's been fully insulated and pre-wired for AC and has O-track on the floor and E-track on both walls. I'll probably add some carpet to midway up the walls in the future.

http://www.onelapcamaro.com/2013%20m...%20forward.jpg

I has 120-volt AC shore power for the lighting and has a battery charger and inverter pre-wired. I'll add an OPTIMA Blue Top and a winch this weekend. Greg was spot on on the winch ratings - unless you foresee a day when you're trying to winch a car in that no longer rolls freely you're fine with a "smaller" rated winch. Remotes, however, can be an important consideration.

http://www.onelapcamaro.com/2013%20m...20cabinets.jpg

And it has some decent pre-built cabinets and workspace. I'll add some stuff from Pit Pal to equip it better but for the same price as a new bar cargo trailer of the same size it's better suited to what I want to do. I lost the warranty but it came with 2 spares - and it has the EZ lube axles which makes maintenance a bit easier.

Good luck with your hunting.

You guys have some awesome trailers.

Possibly. That's a different brand though and I do not know enough about all the brands to really comment.

Just like cars and trucks and real estate, there are usually premiums (some large, some small) paid for "stuff" in California.

Now where's that gooseneck trailer thread of GW's.... there's gotta be some good info in there somewhere. :headscratch:

James, that is a kick ass trailer. And we all know you did your research and hunting. Fellow Dirtfisher there I see.

G, your photos are all gone now. You must have moved something in photobucket. I know, photobucket does pretty much suck. :smiley_smack:
Can you make those work again? I'd like to see them again.

I like that you have been able to make the 20 footer work. My parking pad on the side of my house is pretty tight and I think a 24 would be a stretch whereas a 20 could make it. It's damn tight and if the 20 might be the winning formula.

Brett is bringing his 24 footer (Todd's old trailer) up this coming week -- maybe I will have Brett do a test run backing it in.

Her ya go Dave. I was doing some organizing. Didn't realize it was going to remove pics.

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100% Correct. Also some trailer co's have 5500# axles and make a 26' box.. My 1998 Wells Cargo "autowagon" is a great trailer http://wellscargo.com/

I am assuming most of you have the 8.5 foot (102") versions instead of the 8 foot (96") width?

I bought a trailer with drivers side escape door, wouild not ddo it again. The wheel wells for the trailer hit the drivers door, I can just squeeze out the door when it hits the wheel well. Plus just another opening to let dust in and weatherstripping to go bad.

YES :thumbsup:

I have a 24 foot gooseneck and will never use a bumper pull again. I don't miss the bouncing along the interstate every time you hit a bump. Bought my trailer in Nebraska, they only build them when you order them and build them to your specs. All LED lighting insulated with aluminum interior walls for around $11,000Car sits in the trailer all the time plus I live iin an area with gravel roads, the car never gets dusty. It is a great trialer. Was built by S&S Welding.

Never understood the whole driver side exit door..... the limiting factor is the car door hitting the fenderwell....so no matter what, if you drive the car in, you may have to climb out the window....if there's no door you just walk along side the car and out the back, why do you need a door on the side?

I disagree with the minimum being 24 ft....it really depends if you are going to haul a ton of extra stuff with you on a regular basis. I can fit my Barracuda in my 20 ft and still have plenty of room up front if I wanted to have a full sized tool box, some tires etc etc

The 24 ft would be nice, but the 20 ft works just fine...

I'd look at it just like a welder.....most guys will do just fine with a 110v welder...but years down the road, you may outgrow it and wish you had gotten the 220v..so if you can afford the 220 now, get it...otherwise make due with the 110v.....

Here is a company that removes the fender as well.

KC Slider

Only thing I can say about the KC Slider is "that's really cool -- right up until it doesn't work right...."



Re - SIDE DOORS.....



I don't care what anyone says -- they're handy as hell. With RaceRamps I can get the nose of the Nomad high enough to clear the wheel well and open the doors....


Having said that --- A WINCH overcomes every load and unload issue you can think of -- so that's priority one.


I agree with NED on the smaller trailer issue.... if you're really trying to pinch pennys (at which point I'd tell you to take up bowling).... I've had many times where it's not just my cars going into the trailer --- it's when you're helping your buddy and the car comes in boxes -- or you've got bikes and stuff to add to the mix -- or you want to haul a sofa AND your car down to the condo you just bought in the dessert.... or went to a car show and just had to have something you found at the swap meet....

One of my favorite sayings is --- Better to have it and not need it - then to need it and not have it.


Carry on!

I'm with Greg.

My first trailer was an open 16 and we always thought. Damn wish we had another foot. Picked up a new 20 haulmark ( pos) and thought, damn wish we had another foot. Returned that one and picked up a used 24 and it's perfect.

You'll notice you'll find more used 24's than 20's. For a few bucks more go for the 24. be patient and shop smart and you may find a good deal.

I hope you picked up that one with the extended lift deck.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!! Now THIS is a trailer!!!


Okay okay --- just put the guns down!!




http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/file-155.jpg

One of my local customers just bought a 24ft featherlight and it's very nice.

That's not much of a tow vehicle. It would not safely pull any enclosed trailer large enough to carry the car. If you plan to keep that truck you would be better off with an open trailer.

That's the way to start a dialogue! HAHAHAHAHA



So what he's really trying to say is ---- just because the rating on the truck (any vehicle) is "X" ---- doesn't mean it will do "X" well.... it only means that it CAN if it has to.


A volkswagon will pull an airplane --- on a flat runway --- and very very slowly and might be completely worn out in the end... but it "could" do it (hypothetically).


What's more important is the weight of the towing vehicle vs the towed item --- and the braking capacity --- and on and on... it's not always just about the power of the engine.

For instance --- my brother in law has a F350 single rear wheel diesel -- I had an F350 dually. Mine out cornered his by a mile.... because it cornered flat and the trailer didn't push the rear end around... therefore if you drove both with the same trailer - mine would have been a clear winner. It just drove nicer under towing conditions.

A Toyota can pull the space shuttle....so get one of those :)

I used to tow a 24' with an 06 f150. It did alright,it didn't push the truck around. The drawback was the lack of power. As long as the trailer brakes are working properly you should be fine for limited use.
I do have to admit though, my new Duramax was one of the best purchases I ever made!:)

Don't forget cooling systems and gearing. I agree with these guys, you are biting off more than you can chew with an Avalanche and a 24' enclosed going any real distance. Appears your truck is rated at 7200-8000 lbs. You will likely exceed it with the car and gear.

I've really liked our Tundra. For a real farmer or puller, it's not the right truck. I really think their target market was a city slicker like myself with some toys and a Wife that needs to drive it. It fits right in between a half ton and 3/4 for pulling. Drives more car like than any other truck I've driven and has a back up camera for tight parking lots along with nav and bluetooth. Interior is nice quality and it's been reliable. I wanted to buy a Chevy but they just don't have many 1500's capable of pulling a 24" enclosed so it was impossible to find one used. I just don't need a 2500.

I agree with Todd. My 1500 is the limiting factor for a trailer and i have the heavy duty trailer towing package - brakes, coolers, controller, etc. - with ethe "big" gas engine. It's my daily driver and I just could not justify going to the 2500. Maybe one day but not now.

Found this on Ebay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/THE-MOST-EQU...item461082e146 - looks like a heck of a deal...

One of my friends has pulled a 24 foot enclosed trailer with his 1500, and he said that only problems was going up steep inclines. Another option is to put a supercharger or Turbo on the 1500, and increase the torque.

Another friend tows a 36 foot trailer with his 2500 6.2, and complains of the gas mileage. He plans to get a duramax next year.

Jeff

My normal tow vehicle is my 2500 8.1L suburban but I pulled my trailer with my wifes 2010 Avalanche 4x4 back and forth from Pamona no problem. Did great over the Grapevine with no over heating. Keep the tow switch on and your good at 55 mph. Throw a brake controller on it too.

I agree, if you are going to do alot of miles then get yourself a 2500. If your gonna do local stuff you should be fine with the Avalanche. Its gonna beat it up after time.

I've towed a 24' enclosed with my 2012 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton a good amount. My truck has the factory trailer package which has a rated capacity of 9500 lbs. My 2012 tows noticeably better that my 2003 1/2 ton which was rated at 7800 lbs.

On a recent trip from west Michigan to Boston I had My truck towing a 24' steel framed enclosed trailer with a 69 Camaro in it. My buddy had a 2011/12 Sierra 2500hd with the 6.0 gas engine towing a 24' all aluminum enclosed trailer with a 72 Nova in it. We had three guys on this trip and traded driving duties between the two trucks. All three of us were surprised how well the 1/2 ton compared to the 3/4 ton. On the trip home we were driving through some pretty hilly areas in the middle of a bad storm. My 1/2 ton averaged 8.1 mpg.(it normally gets 10-10.5 towing this combo) The 3/4 ton averaged 6.7mpg.

My .02 is if your only towing a handful times per year the 1/2 ton will be fine. If you are going to be towing a lot skip the gas 3/4 ton and go with a diesel.

I'm sorry. I had to laugh at the MPG figures.

My "truck" is running 53,000 POUNDS hauls three cars plus a house and I get
6.6 MPG


And I don't have to "eat out" or get a motel room!!!




Hahahahahaha