I seem to be moving backwards....:confused18:

Last week I rebuilt the 12 bolt rear end that I had ready to go into the car. This Saturday I took out the 10 bolt and then we had to proceed to grind off every single bolt involved in holding the rear springs to the car. All the shackle bolts, all the j-nut bolts...everything. Nothing would come loose with normal means of persuasion; not even the "smoke wrench" could get it done. And here I thought I might be able to get the 12 bolt installed. Luckily I knew this was probably going to be an issue and already have the parts on hand to rebuild everything however; I just had hoped it wouldn't take me 7 hours to get it apart.

On Sunday, I cleaned my shop of the complete mess caused by the above procedures, including gear lube, grinding dust and various pieces/particles of Camaro. Now I can actually work in it again.

Some good news is that I heard my front subframe and parts are ready to be picked up from the powder coater. With my car being up on my lift with no wheels or axles whatsoever, it will be really nice to just get the thing on the ground again! Hopefully within the next two weeks, I'll have a roller or even have a roller with the engine mounted in it; at least in an initial test-fit.

Some more bad news is that I have to buy more stuff. Specifically I must decide on headers very soon.

Upon further inspection, the leaf springs that came off of my car had two completely different arches. So, either one was worn out, or they are actually two different springs. I'm leaning towards the latter.

Anyway, I was able to score some new ones locally for $111 a piece and they'll be delivered tomorrow.

Better news! I'm picking up my newly coated subframe and parts tonight!

Aren't these cars fun! May the force be with you.

I vote the mods give us a smiley with a light saber! :popcorn2:

David

I can relate, you get ready to get a job done and it fights you the whole way...:bang:

Hope your header decision goes easy...:idea:

Haha, I've got a picture for you. Some have a shop dog, I've got a shop Yoda...
Attachment 47160

Every time something I get stuck on something I look up and think about this:




That last part was a sick joke wasn't it?:warning: :lol:
I think I actually have decided on headers. Ones I can cut on and weld if they don't fit but cheap enough that I won't feel bad that I did it.

Here are a couple of pix of my powdercoated sub!

Attachment 47161

Well, I guess I have a shop dog as well. He's annoyingly in the way all the time though and absolutely worthless for fetching tools or anything else. The ladies like him though, so that's something I guess.
Attachment 47162

A little progress this weekend. I was able to get my 12 bolt fully installed and filled with lube and some friction modifier.

Attachment 47324

I also did a little work on my CAA A/C system. I'm to the part where I need someone to help me lift up the unit from under dash while I bolt it up from the engine side of the firewall.

Once that's done, it's on to test fitting my engine into the subframe again and seeing if I need to cut out a bit for the alternator.

Stuff Getting Done!!!!!
 

A lot of progress this weekend!

Friday night we finished up the cutout in the subframe for the alternator.
Attachment 47473
It turned out pretty nice. I did have to mess up the nice powdercoating but the paint I used matched really well. You would never be able to tell.

After the alternator cutout we worked on the transmission crossmember.

The middle part is from the donor 2004 GTO and I'm using a new GTO mount as well.
Attachment 47474

It may need a little strengthening or bracing later, but for now it looks like it will work really well.

On Saturday we worked on getting the subframe up underneath the car again, and getting all the brake stuff hooked up. I did have one little SNAFU in that I didn't get the right rag joint for the 3rd gen steering box I'm using. I've got it (GM 7826542) on order now at the local auto parts store.

After the Easter family stuff we decided to play with the car some more and actually install (hopefully I won't have to take it out anytime soon) the engine and transmission.

Here's the transmission mounted under the car.

Attachment 47475

And Here's the engine in it's new home.
Attachment 47476

It fit pretty well. I have probably around a 3 to 4 degree downward angle on it and the trans fits pretty tight. I'm going to remove some of the welded in nuts in the body for a little clearance and do a little cutting around the reverse lockout solenoid.

Here's the alternator resting nicely in it's new home.
Attachment 47478
To remove it, you just need to remove the bolts that attach it to the engine first and pull out the whole assembly towards the front of the vehicle. Then you can unhook the wires and it pops right out.

Here's a pic of the new master and 8" booster. No clearance issues there anymore.
Attachment 47477

This wasn't planned but turned out really good for me. The wiring harness from the GTO that went to the alternator starter and battery looks like it will end up right where my battery is in the Camaro. That will save me some time and headaches!

Attachment 47479


I'm starting to get a little excited, and I'm hoping things keep going smoothly even though I'm planning that they won't. :knokwood:

Now I've got to order some fuel line and fittings. My radiator should be here this week. Next though, is the wiring from hell! That's what I'm most worried about at this point. I'm hoping to get some pointers and help from this forum on that.

Until the next update: May the Schlitz be with you!

Is it running YET??

:cheers:

I've got some crappy tires on there that are just begging to be destroyed so we'll see who has the first burn-out video.:morepower

:popcorn2:

One-Word, One-Photo Update
 

Updates!
 

I haven't made any updates to my thread lately.....BECAUSE I was too busy actually WORKING on the car!

In chronological order........

I ended up buying the Texas Speed stainless steel LS swap headers. My reasoning was based on the SWAG that I would need to modify WHATEVER I bought anyway and that they filled two criteria.

1. They are stainless steel so I can modify them without worrying about a coating.
2. They are cheaper than most so I won't WORRY about modifying them.

Well, I did have to modify them, but not very much. They just made contact with my rag joint.

Sawzall!
Attachment 48396

Attachment 48397

Mig with Stainless wire
Attachment 48398

Here it is installed
Attachment 48399

Ohh, what's that sticking up through the floor? An MGW shifter! And it's even attached to a T56!
Attachment 48400

After that we took an entire weekend making a kit that's supposed to fit, fit. IOW, the Magnaflow 3" exhaust had a few issues. Notably where the pipe exits from the rear of the muffler. It just got too close to the axle. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find the pictures I took of this anywhere. Oh well.

Then I bought a nice new radiator. Unfortunately, someone else with a 69 camaro ordered one at the exact same time and they had a big block. They sent me the big block radiator and he got my LS one.

Attachment 48401

After that was straitened out, I was sent the proper one.

Ahhh.....
Attachment 48402

Then I went about installing my CAI. Unfortunately...AGAIN, I was missing parts. It didn't have the aluminum tube in the package. I called up Spectre though, and they took care of it right away.

Attachment 48403

Then we decided to finish up (for the most part) the Classic Auto Air system.

Here's the under-dash view. Not much else to see except what's in front of the radiator and in my engine compartment.

Attachment 48404

This weekend I got a bunch of wiring done.

Attachment 48405

I actually got the fuel pump working (through the PCM even!) and imediately found a leak in the push in connector on the fuel filter/regulator outlet. Sigh.

Then, my Dakota Digital gauges never even lit up at all. So, I called them today to send me a new brain box. It must have been dead on arrival.

If I didn't have all this bad luck, I'd be done already!

So, waiting on parts again. I'm really hoping to hear this engine fire up next weekend.

Whose radiator and fan combo is that?

http://www.wwwsuperiorradiator.com/6...amaro_chevelle
Superior Radiator. Very reasonably priced and the quality seems good as well.

You're getting close. Keep at it. I took the easy route with the wiring and ordered wiring kit from PSI. I actually enjoy wiring, but was short on time.

It's Alive!
 

After fixing the fuel plumbing last night and checking some things over, I couldn't resist seeing if the car would start.

It started fine and no trouble codes (amazingly enough)!

The first time, I ran it for less than a minute and found out how fast the headers heat up on this thing. Even burning my fingerprints off couldn't wreck my day after hearing this thing run for the first time.



Obviously I still have a lot of work to do but I'm getting close:

I need to clean up the wiring.
Put in my new brain box for the VHX gauges (coming today) and hope they work now.
Send my PCM back for some reprogramming based on the AC setup I'm using and because the reverse lockout isn't functioning properly through the PCM.
Figure out why the P/S is leaking at the box.
Get the front end aligned.

After that, it should be on the road and officially be a "Running/Driving Project".

As we all know, there are many many things to do in the driving project stage and most cars never leave that stage either.

Congrats man, sounds meaty! :hail:

Now clean up that wiring before something not good happens :D

Congrats.

More updates
 

I was able to get a little bit more done this weekend; and of course, find more problems. Yay! :headspin:

I cleaned up the wiring and got it routed where it's supposed to go. Unfortunately, I may be digging back in there again as....

The PCM is not turning on my fans like it should. Nor is it disengaging the reverse lockout. My AC request going though the PCM is also not turning on the fan that it's supposed to. These PCM problems should be taken care of this week by the tuner. It's too bad that he's not closer to me and I have to ship stuff back and forth but this was a pretty complex segment swap and I'm pretty sure there isn't anyone closer (That I'd trust) to work on it. In fact, last time I mentioned a "segment swap" to the closest tuner I could find, he was like "huh?".

Other than the aforementioned issues, the PCM works well and runs the engine fine with no trouble codes. That's mostly at idle though with just a little bit of messing about.

As for the Dakota Digital issues: The first "brain box" that came with my gauges must indeed have been dead on arrival. I wired the replacement box in this weekend and my gauges work properly and as advertised.

As we were buttoning up stuff under the dash and tested out the wipers, I noticed smoke coming out of the wiper motor. We kept taking a piece off it and testing it until we had it all the way apart (drilled out the rivets holding the two halves of the housing together) and found out that the smoke was coming from the internal resistor. I can't seem to find any information on the resistor so I guess I'm going to have to replace the whole unit with a rebuilt one. Also, on the same subject, I found that the washer part of my wiper switch may not work either.

The next day I drained the old fluid out of the T56 and put in brand new stuff and topped off the engine oil with another half a quart. Then we got to work on trying to finish up the dash and the center louver for the Classic Auto Air.

First, if I haven't mentioned it before, the instructions for the CAA unit suck. Stuff is kind of out of order and that causes issues when you do something first that should have been done later, etc. The instructions for installing the center louver were almost non-existent. It was kind of like, "cut this and stick it in". So I had to call them today to ask about it and about replacing my louver since the vents were mounted in in crooked. In any case I think I understand it now and should be able to put it in when I get the new unit.

I also fixed my dome light that was actually disconnected from the harness near the rear wheel well. I had to fish in with a clothes hanger to find the plug while my uncle crawled in through the back seat and latched the two together.

Now I'm busy waiting on others (for the most part). Otherwise I could take a day or two off and get this puppy on the road.

1. I need the PCM fixed so I can take trailer it in to the alignment shop and (hopefully) drive it home. Kind of need the fans for that.
2. I need the Wisconsin DMV A.K.A (Dumbass obstructionist Mf'n Vipers) to send me my title and licences. Did I mention that I hate the DMV and believe they are the most useless government agency on the face of the earth? I've had nothing but problems with the Malum prohibitum loving dbags over there. EVERY time I try to get a licence or title there is some sort of issue caused by their stupid rules that don't make any sense and aren't written as laws anywhere that I can find.....anyway....[/rant]

So, now it's mostly a waiting game and I can't stand it. I'm not Ron in Socal after all.

I drove my car home from the stealership last night where it was in for an alignment. So far, it seems the only real important bug I need to work out is with the cooling system.

I'm running the stock thermostat (195 degree, I think) and fan 1 is set to come on at 226 degrees. The fan does come on at this time but when I shut down the engine and it's close to this temperature I'm hearing boiling coolant in the radiator and I get some coming out of the overflow. I'm running a 16 lb cap.

Anyone have any suggestions on that?

When going down the road it stays pretty cool and I don't THINK I'm having any issues at that time.

As far as thoughts on driving this thing (for any distance at least) for the first time, my overall opinion is SWEET! As my build progresses in the running/driving project stage, I was going to start with power adders but I can definitely see that suspension should be the first thing on the list. It may be only an LS1 but this thing really screams. I'm happy with my power level for now. It needs sub frame connectors as I can feel what I assume to be some body flex as well.

In any case, I was grinning from ear to ear when I really romped on it for the first time. Ron, I even burned a bit of rubber off the rear tires (just to make sure the posi was working of course) but I didn't take a video.
:poke:

LS engines run hot for emissions and crank case moisture burn off. I would get the fans to come on sooner. Sitting in traffic,w AC on and low flow you should keep it around 210. T stat temp is fine, you just need to get the fan cycles down. Fan 1? I assume you have 2 fans. Set it up so AC sense will run both fans.

As far as cap pressure , I would go with what the radiator manufacture recommends. Most I have seen are 16 lbs.

What are you running for coolant? Glycol mix or straight water or water wetter and water?

Hi Vince!

I'm running a 50/50 mix of Oreilly's version of GM Dex-cool.

I have a second PCM off getting reprogrammed at the moment and he's going to turn down the fan on temperature as well as fix the programming for the AC and the reverse lockout. I also talked to him about this issue.

It may be because I'm not using (as of yet) a coolant overflow/recovery tank and it's sucking air back into the system. I guess I'm not sure how the more modern caps/radiators/vehicles are technically "supposed" to work as the stuff I worked on before was mostly designed to spew on the ground.

I'm going to get a cheapo reservoir from the auto parts store tonight to test the theory out and if it works, will be going to something a little nicer for a permanent solution.

yep, you will run low eventually,

I like this tank and run it on everything. Tucks in next to the battery.

https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...2&postcount=43

That was my concern regarding cooling when I first ran the engine (LM7). I reprogrammed the fan controller to have the fan come on at 190* (I think the thermostat is 185*). Engine stayed constantly at 195*.

Vince, what is the proper cap to go with that jar? Since nothing comes with anything anymore, I'm assuming it's not included if I order the jar.


So, you had the same symptoms or did you reprogram it before you ever started it up? I actually forgot to ask what my PCM guy was going to reprogram it to....haha. He did express concerns about programming it to a temperature that is too low but I didn't ask him where the "cut-off" was.

any GM spin on cap from 1975-2000 will work. Still available at GM under pn 15630112. Also Oreilly's or Pep boys from Dorman Help. about 4 bucks

Actually the fans came on before the thermostat open. I have a stand alone fan controller (Dakota Digital), and it was programmed for the old Pontiac engine (fan came on at 185*). I reprogramed the controller to have it come on at 195*.

I ordered the Nova reservoir. Hopefully I'll have it tomorrow or Saturday since it's coming from Illinois via "speedy delivery" but we'll see.

Vince, was there anything special about mounting this part in a Camaro?

Thanks!

Just one screw through the inner fender brace. Most cars already have the hole there. The base of the tank just sits on the inner fender well flat. Theres a decent picture in that link I posted earlier.

I looked at the picture but I must be getting old. It was a little too small for me to make out the detail. I do think that I already have a hole there. I noticed it last night when I was installing the hood.

Speaking of which, UPDATE; I installed the hood last night! She's getting close!

I received my reservoir yesterday and installed it today. Thanks again Vince! It worked pretty darn good. I had to drill a hole slightly forward of the existing hole. Then I drilled the plastic out to 5/16 and put a body nut on it so I could put my bike in from the outside.

After that, we finished the dash and I checked my mailbox. Lo and behold, my Wisconsin hobbyist plates showed up! So, I took it into town for a cruise and washed it. I'll post some pictures when I get to a computer but I'll say it sure did clean up nice.

coming together pretty good! no problem. :thumbsup:

:ttiwop:

:thumbsup: too!

Here's some pictures of the outside after washing off the dust and grime.

Attachment 48730Attachment 48731
Attachment 48732Attachment 48733
Attachment 48734Attachment 48735

She's a little too high in the air of course, but I'll have to take care of that; along with wheels and tires, when I've got more money. At least it's driveable!

I'm working on trying to figure out what to do for a console yet and still need my reprogrammed PCM to come in the mail to work out the A/C and the reverse lockout.

That'll do man!!!! Nice to finally see the beast LIVE!!......

I/we just need to see some nice "stripes" behind the tires as well......

Car is really looking good,glad to see it on the road,I am sure that feels good:trophy-1302:

I'm trying to give Ron a chance to beat me to it. BTW.... :secret: I've already tried a few "stripes" but haven't recorded it.:secret:

It sure does feel good! There are some bugs I'm trying to work out but I'm taking it one problem at a time and trying to get them all taken care of. Unfortunately, we are having severe weather around here right now and it will probably keep up through the end of the week. So, road tests aren't going to come again for a bit.

I'll do it after I burn up the tires on the track. You have until the first week in August...:hello:

Installed my Tiburon seats this weekend.

They're much more comfortable than the stock seats, with one caveat. In order to get them low enough that a 6'3" person like me can sit in them comfortably without hitting the ceiling, they have to be installed off-center a bit.

The Tiburon seats are actually offset already. IIRC, they are off-center by at least an inch and a half.

Here's a picture of the brackets.
Attachment 49206

I thought I had one of the seats too, but I guess I forgot to take one. I can get one of those anytime though if anyone is interested.


Anyway, We decided to make the brackets out of 12ga steel. We were thinking about using angle iron but the 12ga "test piece" seemed more than strong enough when bent to it's shape on the brake and after the front end was bent and welded to the contour of the Tiburon seat. You can't see it very well in the picture, but the front (towards the left) hole of the bracket is on an angle. There are nuts welded to the bottom of it.

Being a bit off-center from the steering wheel is a little weird at first but I'm getting used to it. Like I said though, still way more comfortable than stock.

If you're short, you could move the seats away from the tunnel and get them closer to center. You'd need to move them about 2" further up in the air to accomplish it. You also may not be able to use the stock seat belts, which I retained in my installation.

Another small update.

My stock drive shaft that we shortened had a little bit of a kink in it, so I knew that I'd have to replace it fairly soon. So, last week I brought it in and had a local shop make me a new one. I decided to go with the 1350 joints and get a new rear pinion yoke to accommodate that.

Well, I went to install my new shaft on Friday and it was at least an inch and a half too long. The new slip yoke was longer so instead of "bottoming" on the transmission rear seal, it bottomed on the inner part. The new pinion yoke was longer as well.

So today I brought it back in to be shortened. Hopefully I'll get it back and be able to install it tonight! After getting a taste of it, I'm sick of not driving my car!