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Looks like a wrong coolant was used? Wonder what those spots are on the cylinder wall.
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This continues to get worst. I would rebuild it.
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FWIW, my 98 LS1 that had 172,000 on it looked almost identical when I tore it down. After a simple rebuild, cylinder hone and a crank polish, new bearings and rings, it's working great. Mine even had the 806 perimeter bolt heads like those, which ended up in the aluminum scrap bin as they aren't worth anything. Found a set of cheap low mileage 241's on craigslist to replace them. Not the best either, but the price was right and they looked new.
A Compcams trunnion upgrade will take care of the rockers too. Good luck, cool project! |
You should check to see how much it cost to rebuild the engine vs buying a crate. It may be cheaper to rebuild it.
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I've had several motors rebuilt -- and have also bought "crate" motors (if you consider (Smeding Performance a crate motor - which I do). It - like most things - comes down to QUALITY - and QUALITY doesn't come cheap. In order to get the costs down - production has to rise - or corners have to be cut. And like most things -- it all depends. Depends on how you plan to use it. Frankly - you don't need much of a motor to cruise around to car shows... you need a completely different build if you want to hammer it on the drag strip.
A really DECENT motor is the HO350/350 from GM.... you can get one complete carb to pan - including distributor and spark plugs even (the distributor needs to be recurved!!) for very little money. Smeding Performance has some variations of horsey power and use -- also pretty affordable and complete. Some crate engine builders actually offer a warranty - nice peace of mind.... Or a simple rebuild or yours... like RickPaw pointed out - just do some comparison shopping. |
Another thing to check is warranty from rebuilt engines vs GM crate engines. GM crate engines have 24 month warranty (there maybe fine prints). Rebuilt engines may not have warranties. My engine builder said when I picked up my rebuilt short block/heads years back that I have a 10 step warranty (10 steps out the door then I'm on my own).
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Thanks for the input guys.
Has anyone ever dealt with Thompson Motorsports near Dallas. I ran across this engine package: http://www.thompsonmotorsports.net/p...havmsf2qptjvm7 |
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I have heard of Thompson, never dealt with them directly, but reviews have been positive.
On that motor, I am not entirely sure I would want to take a 5.3 and bore it out to 5.7. I know the iron 5.3s have thick cylinder walls and can take it, but I have always been against enlarging cylinder walls, just to enlarge them. For the price you are going to pay for that one, why not look for a completely stock 6.0 with low mileage. If you search hard enough you will be able to find one with under 10K miles, that technically hasn't even been broken in yet, for less than the 5.7 you are looking at. Your car, your money, just my opinion. |
Check out the Texas classifieds section on ls1tech. There are a few ls1's for sale on there now. Short block and long block configurations pop up for sale fairly often. Rebuilding seems to get expensive quickly, unless your planning a stroker or big power I would look for a low mileage 6.0 as mentioned above, prob your best bang for the buck
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How about a GM Performance LQ4 crate?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...1857/overview/ Most of the bolt on stuff from the LS1 will work (intake/fuel rails/injectors/water pump with spacers) |
IMO - I'd stay aluminum. Although the extra bore of an LQ4 gets you into some wicked awesome heads, and probably will be cheaper overall.
...I don't know, I'm torn in my own post. :( May make sense to cost out rebuilding vs crate. Price is probably going to be better overall on an LQ build, not to mention once you go to the 4" bore you can get some real awesome heads. It's something I've thought about doing on my truck (06 Avalanche 1500) many times... |
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I saw a stroker moter come out of a crate and had visible aluminum chips where something was ground on after it was assembled and there was a sandy grit all in the motor (beads from a blast cabinet?) I just know there is no way in hell it would ever be put in my car without a complete dissasembly, cleaning and inspection. |
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6.0 LQ9 motor ordered!
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Wheels up! :D
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Holley 302-2 pan ordered |
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Even I'm starting to think I'm a little crazy. |
New engine (LQ9) showed up:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/...c93abd81_c.jpg Here are some pics of the body: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3823/...82c8eed2_c.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7003/...bba45732_c.jpg |
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The car will look great with the new color. What color is that?
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Option 1: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7375/...2049eab4_o.jpg Option 2: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7445/...c1b8043d_o.jpg |
Option 1 for me,only please yourself on your build:thumbsup:
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Color looks great. I vote for option 2 on the wheels.
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I vote either #1 or:
http://www.rotiform.com/images/produ...ck_sna_01b.jpg In the proper finish, an ultra wide set of monoblocks would look unreal! |
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Engine shot:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7336/...d13971a3_b.jpg I should be bringing the body home this weekend. Here is a shot of the hood, doors, trunk lid and rear spoiler: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7375/...00e25740_b.jpg Excuse the cell phone pics. I'll get high res DSLR pics once the body is home. |
nice work!! opt 2 looks awesome!!!!!
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Got the body home today.
My son was happy to see the car home. The car will ultimately be his one day. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2904/...6a92aa90_b.jpg |
The picture says it all. Priceless.
Nice car too! |
Car looks great,really like the color:thumbsup:
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Paint looks awesome. Love the color. Red interiors look great with cyber gray. Check out the 2014 corvettes with that combo. :thumbsup:
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I had the pleasure of loading it up and transporting it back to the house: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5079/...87842569_b.jpg |
Cool.
Re wheels, I vote for no. 2. Can't wait to see it finish. |
I ordered a tilt column from Jim at GMTILT and bought this steering wheel:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5565/...9956d966_b.jpg After ordering the steering wheel, I found out most steering wheel adapters are designed for 69 and up. Luckily I ran across a thread that tells you to use a Grant 5 bolt installation kit designed for 67-68 cars and a Grant to Momo (5-6 bolt adapter plate). Both pieces are billet aluminum and should blend nicely with the column. Next I need to order the Holley front accessory drive brackets. |
lookin good !!:)
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