Great looking No-Go [/hijack]

Great pictures and explanation. I'm sure everyone would like to see the same done with a 67-8. Any chance of that?

Also, are you 100% sure the wheel you measured is 10" wide?

yeah, cause a 10" wide wheel will measure 11" lip to lip. <:P

Thanks Vinny! that Nova is LOW!!!!! dang! show that micro tub install off

Thanks! I also run run a 9.5 rim on my 1968 camaro with a complete Ride Tech set up in a 17" rim and I have a crazy offset at 5.5 and they are pushed out to the very edge with alot of fender massaging :hairpullout:

:wacko: yes :hairpullout: I knew I forgot to show one measurement!!! when my 68 Camaro gets to Indy I will pull it in the shop and put the very same forgeline on for everyone and I ordered that rim to exact dimensions just for the tru-turn fitment test and to have on display

on a addendum note, so after looking over different installs, my recommendation to EVERYONE is to measure your own car for its back spacing the one biggest factor I found in the installs is the brake packages that are used I found the some CPP brake kits with hubs pushes out the wheel mounting surface just over a 1/4 inch, and the some willwood kits push the mounting surface out almost a 1/2 inch, so unless you know that (you measured) the wheel mounting surface is still in the original location or you are using the very same Baer Brake package we used the 5.75 suggestion would be off by 1/2 inch, also please use the alignment settings given, make sure the sheet metal on your car is aligned, have good body bushings, the tru-turn kit pushes the tire width limit of a stock frame to max performance, so the rest of the assembly needs to be of the same caliber

Great write ups Rod! I agree that you should always measure for yourself especially with the differences in brake kits. Could you take one more measurement for me? It would be nice to have a reference with Ridetech's setup as installed, for dimension or track width to the rotor. Say from the frame to WMS, or spindle to WMS? Does that make sense? Then the rest of us could adjust by comparing that against our own brake systems to determine if our actual BS measurements seem correct.

Its probably not that important, given that we should measure ourselves, but thought it might help someone.

Thanks,

Jason

Ya...what Gray said! I'm running Wilwood 13" 1-piece rotors.

First off, thanks for the pictures and write up!

I see the car you used is a little higher than mine. Maybe I should bump mine up and realign it and see where i am at.

Here is my main question to you, and still some of the heartache I have with this setup. How do you drive a car with this setup when the fender is sitting on the wheel during a turn?? If the fender moves down at all its going right into the tire and rubbing like a mofo. (ie turning into a raised parking lot or making a high speed turn)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...ps27674322.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...n%20fender.jpg

I think it is important! Giving a base track width or some other reference dimension will help people tremendously. I was a bit surprised to see the ridetech president say without qualification that you have to have a 5.75" BS.

Maybe since RodP has a setup on a stand he can give us that reference dimension.

It seems to me that the critical measurement is WMS/WMS. I'd assumed that any size recommendations given by RT were based on using a duplicate of their setup. Change anything that impacts WMS/WMS (CA's, rotor hats, hubs) and those recommendations go out the window.

....and given the frequency with which there are variations between cars, even from the same year and same plant it seems incumbent on the buyer to do a lot of measuring before purchasing wheels & tires.

Uh.....this looks awesome.

the wheel negative cambers inward away from the fender that's part of the reason for the tall spindle...to help the camber curve, but you should roll the inner fender, I know it looks like it should hit.....but the wheel does camber inward, on my car I cant get a pencil between the fender and tire and with the camber movement it doesn't hit, even on extreme movement

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps76dc509f.jpg

agreed Jason I will take the extra measurements, I will remove the coilovers to get you guys the measurements at full drop, ride height, and full compression, I will try monday or tuesday, in between projects

So the wilwood kit is narrower or wider than the baer?

The Wilwood hat that I have is a tick under 5/16" the Baer is under a 1/4". Point is you have to measure and measure again.

I also have a nova with tru turn running 18x9.5 wheels with 5.75bs. The onlt issue I have is a slight rub at lock. and this is because I dont have the ride tech arm on my car. I did remove the top inner fender bolts just to be safe.

What brakes are you using?

Hey Rod,

What is the ride height measured to the top of fender on your 68? Is it also 23 3/8"?

I would like to measure it for you, but its 3000+ miles away from me right now

liar, its more like 2465 miles but who's looking. : )

ha ha ha ha ha:ohsnap:

Detroit Speed Cars
 

Please note that you cannot compare wheel/tire setup on a car with DSE front subframe with a car with stock subframe! Reason is DSE subframe is designed to allow sharper turning radius by moving frame rails inboard. Splined sway bar is also designed to allow sharper turning radius. Result is ability to move wheels inboard for more clearance between fender lip and outside of the tire.
Conrad

Conrad,
Clearly dse is a in a different class of suspension upgrades but the point is they gave themselves more than an 1.5 " clearance to the fender when they designed their subframe. If you want a no compromise setup to fit a 275 tire ridetech is not quite that.

Im running oem c5 zo6 brakes

Heck, I could have saved myself some measuring and head-scratching if I would have thrown $4k more at my Firebird and just bought a DSE subframe!:)

Whaaaatttt? You think it's the first time someone spent that much money just to go up a size. QQ

4000 more and you only get the front suspension:lostmarbles: there BASE Camaro frame is $7000 bucks.....now that's just the front boys and girls.....Ridetechs top of the line 1st gen camaro suspension setup the - Level 3 is $7050 for just fifty bucks more and you get EVERYTHING, front to rear, upper and lower control arms, tru-turn steering with tall spindles, 1000lbs per inch front swaybar, rear triangulated four link and kick ass triple adjust coil over shocks.......that's easy math...with the extra coin saved you can order those forgelines with the proper offset and good Baer brakes and get done

So I called Baer and their brakes do not offset the wheel mounting surface to their knowledge. The wilwood kit I have adds .38 inches of offset per side. So with that being said my wheels at 18x9 5.25 backspace should actually sit .12 further inside than the 18x10 5.75 backspace ride tech recommends. I have to get all my panel alignment perfect in the front but its going to be really close. Far closer than the picture of the blue car above.

All that being said it would be extremely helpful if RideTech provided better information on what fits and doest fit or even to take into account the brake offsets when ordering your wheels.

Once I get all this figured out I still dont know for sure my oil pan and headers are going to fit with the tru turn.

.38 per side do you mean 9/16 of an inch per side? from this conversion chart, that means the brakes push the wheel outward 9/16 of an inch per side and then you ran a rim thats .500 thousandths (or 1/2 wider offset than recommended) so 9/16 + 1/2

Find the lowest common denominator
* 1/2 by 8
= 8/16
Now you can add them both together since you have the same denominator
9/16 + 8/16 =
9+8 = 17
17/16 = 1 1/16

so your 1inch and a 1/16 too wide on your wheel and brake selection, on your car with the added brake dimension you stated I would have recommended about a 6.00 back space


lets use a 10 inch rim for example
5.25 back space would stick OUTWARD .500 thousands (1/2 inch) more than a 5.75 back space

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/x...psd0c6cc67.jpg

hope this helps

AFAICT .38 of an inch per side is 38/100 per side or 76/100 total increase in width. Just over 3/4" (by .01") total.

Did I miss something?

a lot of time is spent testing what fits

this how basic back space is measured here, we lift the arm up to ride height and pick the tire width we would like to run
http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps908e8157.jpg

next we check for clearance at ball joints and steering arms
http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps9ca31251.jpg
http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/x...psfe05032d.jpg

and its simple after that it gives you the backspace, then we order a rims in that spacing bolt them on and drive, and we can shim the rim from there for final spacing
http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps0a5eb57f.jpg

SOMEONES been hanging out with Britt :lostmarbles:

Rod forgot to add that when checking for proper wheel fitment we stroke the suspension and turn the wheels to full lock. This makes sure we don't hit the finder at full compression, or the frame or sway bar at full lock in any situation.

It's simple to do. . .just remove the spring from the coil over, bolt the shock back in, and use a jack to stroke the suspension.

I STRONGLY suggest anyone trying to fit the largest wheel/tire under their car buy a GOOD measuring tool. The one in the pic is about $400. Sounds pricey, but what's Forgeline charge to change a wheel that doesn't fit your car?

yep you right True!! that damn chart was off :sarcasm_smiley:

some of the other things we spend time testing and fitting are spindles from other manufactures you can see in the picture here what we have on the shelf many to test from Heidts, DSE, ATS/speedtech, L&H and many others, testing for offsets, camber curves, bump steer among a few others things :thankyou:

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps228b0b79.jpg

Bret or Josh,

Not intending to high jack a thread but I feel I'm covering a couple bases at once for others that have asked some of the same questions in other threads in the distant past .

First. Complements to you and your crew for this system. I am very happy with the engineering on this system. I went with the True Turn system and the Triple adj air bag coil overs. I have only installed the front so far and have done a couple test runs and I'm happy to report no rubbing after my mods to the inner fender. That is with 9.5s and 5.75 bs on a 69 Camaro with a big block.

Second. What is the suggested eye to eye for the front ( and rear) coil overs at ride height. I'm need that to mock up the Moser floater. I'm doing my own torque arm set up. I'm roughly 24" from floor to body line on front fender now.....with a big block at this time.

Third. On the 48 Hour Camaro, did you use Holleys newest engine mount system which places the motor over an inch from firewall? I can't get the Holley/Hooker guys to confirm anyone has used their newest system with the Ridetech True Turn system. Trying to find what will work.

Thanks,
David

Yeah your math was a little off but I think we are headed in the correct direction. Taking my brakes into account your are correct I should have ordered a 18x9 5.75 backspace but I went off what RideTech had posted on the website which was a 10 inch wide 5.75 backspace wheel would fit. There were no stipulations/recommendations around brake setup or anything like that and I really feel there should be. Even Brett stepped in earlier in the tread and stated the OP ordered the wrong wheels and should have ordered a 18x10 5.75 backspace without even looking at any other info. To he honest I am pretty disappointed with Ridetech and looking back I would have just gone with a aftermarket subframe. It least then I would have know exactly what fit and what didnt and I not be spending money doing the testing I feel Ridetech should have done before advertising their setup as a one stop shop.

Would love to see some pictures of the 69. what tire size did you use? What is the ride height?