That got fixed I presume?

It will be eventually, I have to get the rest done and i'll see what kinda time I have left.

I wish we were doing it over from scratch cause its been a chore getting my noz into some spots, the front lower bar took me 45 min to do. laying in the car and finger tip control equals fun. Got 360 but I had to sacrifice a lense.

After 5 hours 45 min..... 60% is welded up. Had to take a break, looking at tig arc too long gives me a migraine, then im no fun to be around.

I feel for ya Vince, that's tough tedious work and to get rewarded with a migraine is just wrong. :thumbsup:

Would one of these torches help?
http://www.ckworldwide.com/flex-loc.htm

Thanks Vince. :confused18: it does look fantastic. Those welds are beautiful

when have you ever been fun?????????:stirthepot: did I miss that era?

haaaa, at least I have a sense of humor.


Hey! where were you today? The toilet papers out in Allens can.

:waveflag:


Just finished the door bars then put the dash back in. It was a rough Thursday. I'll weld in the top of the diagonal Saturday.

it happens, it will be worth it when done.

What I need is a shorter lense nozzle....and a 90 degree tungsten. :idea:

I got a great idea for finger control. Anyone wanna loan me 60K to develop and proto-type?? :G-Dub:

Nice work Vince. Door bars look great.

CK90V Flex is the best I could find......is 90 amp rating enough? :sieg:
http://www.ckworldwide.com/master.htm

Check the dimensions page.

not for CM.....I'll keep looking.

here is some of the tin work that Rod AKA "The Tin Man" done on the car.

.040 AL...

140a and 90* http://www.ckworldwide.com/micro_torch.htm

damn....70amp for gas cooled...looks like im upping to a dynasty sooner than I thought.

my man....im gonna check with my dealer monday....since your up....how many different types of finger tip controls can you find? :goggles:

Regretfully you "need" water cooling for the tubing you're doing. =(
What amperage are you using on that cage?

Here's a couple: http://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?ma...x&cPath=13_674

I'm liking that rotary belt unit with the velcro so you can change the switch position on the torch as needed and the north-south finger movement vs. east-west of the typical dial. :thumbsup:

USA Weld offers that rotary for my HTP 221 Invertig......very tempted. As you know there's times when a foot control is basically useless and I'd have a backup should the foot control fail.

The list of things that I need are growing...new torch, diopter lens, tugsten shapener, Dynasty, band saw, gravity boots etc I've been hanging upside down for a few of the jobs.


come to think about it next time im gonna drag the teeter hang up to the shop to help me get to those hard to reach spots...


for the finger control I have the machine set to 180 and that gives me 1/4 turn from off to deal with when im welding. So its about 125-130

In the past I try to do a majority of my welding with the finger control. Its something I recommend when someone is first starting out. Start and perfect the finger controls. Like driving...start with a stick shift. everything else is gravy

Underdash is finally done, dash is in, fire system done, steering column mounts finished and seats are going in.

Since we had to make even more room for the rear wheels and tires we pushed the lower quarter out about 2 inches. To make it look right we also had to extend the rockers. This will add to the cars aero moving the air around the tire. In theory.



Here are a few pictures from when I was setting up the rear quarter and rocker extension.

More on the rocker extension.

Here is a great shot of the side with the fender and quarter mocked in. Very subtle stretch. Makes the 335's look like 295's.

LOOKN GOOD VINN :bigun2:

Nice work Vince, didn't know you possessed all that metal fab talent. :thumbsup:

Yup. That thing is looking good. :thumbsup:

thanks alot guys, its rare to have a customer give you full creative reign on a project. I think he was a bit surprised how far we took it considering it came in for a simple quarter panel and fender replacment.

Here are some more pictures of the fender stretch.

Looking good Vince

Thanks Pat....outside earlier today.

The front fenders came out great. Still doing some finish work to the passenger side fender and extension.

Pretty close to matching the rear quarter.

Looks awesome Vince. :thumbsup:

Yup :thumbsup:

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet

Did you widen the front fenders at all? Are you running an inner fender?

The front was stretched 1 1/4" to match the rear stretch. It should almost appear stock when done and painted. Till you look closer.

No inner wells. Just tin work to keep rubber and track debris off the exhaust.

The upper control arm prevented us from going with a deeper backspace so we ended up with 5 3/4" BS. We have a bit more room to the outer lip to give the tire more room during articulation a track car normally sees.

Curious as to what you see as the pros/cons of this method vs say what JCG did with their BluBalz car

http://www.camaroperformers.com/proj...g/viewall.html & http://www.camaroperformers.com/cama...l/viewall.html & http://www.camaroperformers.com/feat...o/viewall.html

Labor hrs?
Weight contribution?
Etc...

something about cats and skinning.

Im not sure about time Rupp and Cris might know more on that. I am about 60 hours total to go this route.

Im not dealing with inner wells or edge lips and adding a 3/16" rod so might be a wash with weight. I know this particular car will be a bit heavier compared to how it came in. :lol:

This car and Track Junky's car are really going a long way to enhance my opinion of the '69 Camaros (which I've always referred to as "too chubby" in the past).

I'm really enjoying the step by step on the craftsmanship that's going into this car. I'd love to see a bit more detail on the quarter stretching.

Thanks alot Leroy. Craftsman....I like that but im just a regular guy with a good welder and even gooder grinder. :hello:

Alot of inspiration has come from this site. Marquez design, Ironworks, BBT fab, RS, Troy's, Goolsby, B&B Classics, CHC, FAB53, JCG just to name a few. One of these days i'll have to take a vacation to go take a Lazze metal working class and put these great tools to work.

Right now im working on the rear inner wheel house structure and i'll post up a bunch of pictures when im done. If I planned it right it will support the quarter skin fully making it easy to remove or replace.

The thing that is taking the most time is trying to tip toe around old repairs and rust damage around the tailpanel. It should be replaced but we have a track event to make in May. That's a can of worms to be left be for now.

Just a few pictures of the rear quarter work. The 335 19's take up a bunch of real estate. I pulled the front of the quarter then will conture the rocker to help direct the air around the tire. Also close up the gap a bit too.

I actually recycled the curved section of the old quarter panel that I cut off and used it as a flange to keep the new skin flush. Worked out great. It was clean so I tried it. Tacked it in and fit the new skin.

Impressive :thumbsup:

Looking good! :thumbsup:

I've been watching this one since the first post, this thing is sweet Vince. I've been planning on putting my battery in the same spot, I think it makes sense to keep it low and towards the middle of the car. Looks sweet, I think you should paint the front of that rearview mirror black. Just my .02¢.

Just found this thread - love seeing updates on this thing!

thanks guys, right now its a Borelli Motor Sports getting a Dyno and alignment check.

This place is amazing. This is what my shop wants to be when it grows up.

As soon as I get my bearings i'll update the updates...we are still staying dark till then.

That place is legit. They bring out the heavy hittin entourage to the track too.... makes Weld's rig look like a Mini Cooper.

Feel free to go ahead and turn mine into a race-car whenever you like.