| dukeboy_318 |
07-14-2016 12:54 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cuda
(Post 641261)
Yes, it will turn lock to lock without touching the frame. I think somewhere around 275 you will start to rub the frame, not that it really affects the turn radius that much. I have seen 285 with clearance notched into the frame rails.
Dukeboy - suspension is just modified stock. 1.12" T-bars, tubular control arms, aftermarket strut rod on the front. Rear is monoleaf with Caltracs for now. After I get it running I will increase the front sway bar, see if I need a rear bar and go from there. I have heard good and bad regarding Caltracs. I'll see how it fares before I pass judgement, this is not a car that I am looking to compete at the pro or national level with. I just want it to work well, behave predictably, and have fun with it at the local level.
Following is a series of pictures of the fender modification.
First picture - no clearance, literally rubs on turn in. Second picture is the first cut of the pie cut, silver sharpie mark shows where second cut will be. Third picture is after pie cut is removed and lip is pushed forward. Fourth is after tack welds. Fifth is after rough body work is finished. And the last picture shows the minimum clearance after. The rear of the tire is close to the fender bolt, but running a button head there takes care of that issue along with good strut rods.
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looks good, i'll probably mod my dart fenders as well in a similar fashion.
as to caltracs, i think they'll be just fine for you. They dont do great for corner carving but seem to be very good straight line at hooking up. Also, have you decided on shocks? If you havent, I run vikings on everything now, no complaints and the dual adjusting shocks are a fair price and American made. |
