Nice work, Tu! Neighbor's car is badass, also.

Got the firewall smoothed

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5828/...91e6b820_c.jpgIMG_0908
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Started on the wiring using American Autowire classic update kit.

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Also got the booster/bracket from Steve's mustang and Lokar throttle pedal assembly installed to make sure nothing interfere with the wiring.

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The car as of right now.

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New Ididit column/steering wheel adapter, and u-joints for the steering.

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Any motor fitment yet? Curious about the trans too.

No motor fitment yet. Hoping to have it dropped in X-mas week.

are you going to convert that car to cable throttle body or will that pedal work with a drive by wire APP sensor? I'm looking for a cable throttle pedal for a 1967 I'm working on now.

The motor has DBC throttle body, so my plan is to get Lokar LS1 cable.

Well ran into a little problem. The Ididit column I got is Ford pattern, and I have an adapter for a GM top shaft to Momo wheel, which won't work (did not know Ididit makes a Mustang replacement column with GM top shaft-too late to swap out since the column is already painted.

Anyone has any tips on how adapt a Momo wheel to a Ford type steering column?

Looks good Tu!

What are your thoughts on the wiring harness?

Will any of these work for the momo?

http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...9%2B4294842169

What wheels are they?

I ended up ordering a Grant 3 hole adapter, and a 3 hole-6 hole adapter on ebay. We'll see how those turn out.

The AAW kit is top notch, but somewhat still in-complete if you have a Mustang with a pony interior. I ended up ordering the door wiring light kit, wiper wiring kit from CJ Pony.

Don't remember the brand of the wheels. The car owner ordered them and had them shipped directly to me. They are made in China, and cost around $140 ea.

Nice job on the firewall and car. I like the wheel selection. Keep the pics coming.

I'm really behind on updates for this Mustang.

Got the VA HVAC controls modded and installed in the car.

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Also installed the Dakota Digital VHX guage

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Installed the battery/200A resettable breaker on the main pos wire.

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Need to check the wiring as the VHX gauge acted strangely when I powered up the electrical system. At least I did not blow any fuses.

Got a 70 Mustang 1" m/c installed with Wilwood proportional valve/dist block and ran the front brake lines.

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Aso finished up the fuel system/lines. Corvette filter/regulator, 3/8 hardlines and AN fittings with flex lines. Hardline runs the entire length of the car, with AN flex lines running from the trunk bulkhead to hard line, and from engine fuel rail to hard line.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1524/...b2c6f1ed_c.jpgIMG_1225

Five months to Power Tours.

Nice work Tu! I envy the progress.

Do you have a part number for that fuel pump? It looks like I could use that style in my Torino tank.

Thanks, Joe

Tu
This is what one of my Torino associates did to his car...

http://jeff351.blogspot.com/2013/10/...r-support.html

I think it's Walbro 255. It came as a complete fuel tank/pump/sender package from Tanks Inc.

I'm thinking about doing the same thing when it's time to drop the engine/trans in. Actually I'm going to fab something up to make it removable, in case the engine/trans need to come out in the future.

Minor update
 

Sorted out the issue with the VHX gauges. It would randomly turn on by itself whenever it's connected to the control box with the key off, and would not turn on with the ignition on. Plugged the display to the control box in my Firebird and it worked fine. Turned out that I was using the power on/acc on terminals on the control box to power the GPS speedo module, and the gauges did not like that. Moved the power leads for the GPS module off the control box, and voila, problem solved.

Display powered up, all functions operated correctly.
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Had decent weather in Houston, so I decided to roll the engine out the driveway and gave it the VHT rebuild process.
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Removed the stock truck oil pan and replaced it with Holley 302-1 pan. The internals looks OK, with cross hatch patterns still visible in all cylinders.
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Painted the block Ford blue, and mated it up with the 4l60e.
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After a lot of cursing, therapy sessions with the BFH, the engine/trans are in. Had to remove the stock transmission channel for the transmission to clear.
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My observations so far on the engine/trans fitment. The engine sits too far back with the DSE engine mounts, 1" forward will be nice. Right now there is less than 1/8" gap between the pass head and the firewall, and there is no room to run the stock transmission dipstick. DSE supplied some nice 3/16" thick aluminum spacers to adjust the engine height and I had 3 spacers installed. I may have enough room between the oil pan and the crossmember to lower the engine a bit more. That will help with the clearance.

Also, if anyone is installing the DSE front suspension, it's best to install the engine mounts before the control arms installed. The front mounting bolt for the engine mount is partially blocked by the lower control arm. I was able to install it without removing the arm, but it was a PITA process.

How did the 4L60 fit in the tunnel?

If you can run without the shims on the motor mounts, that will buy you a little more room.

Nice work, Tu. Those gauges look great!

It was a very tight fit I will try to run without the shims, the oil pan may interfere with the crossmember though. I've been looking at adjustable mounts to slide the motor forward a little, while still maintain space for the accessories/rad/fans ect.

I have another set of LS mounts for the alumaframe if you want to cut stuff up and try it......cheap.

What are you using for manifolds/headers?

Right now planning to use the stock manifolds, but will have to see if they fit.

Nice work Tu...just not sure about the Ford blue on the Chevy engine. Don't be surprised if it peels off. :lol:

Looks great Tu...

If you buy the nice high dollar Billet Specialties valve covers, they come with an oval, you can put a blue ford oval on it and 90% of the people wont know the difference.
I'm doing it on my Camaro, just to eff with people....

Thanks guys. Right now the engine/trans are in and at 3* angle, but there is no room to run the cooler lines. Looks like I have to cut out the trans hump on the pass side and add a bulge to it for the lines to clear. I'll do that after fab up a crossmember for the trans. Right now it's supported by a floor jack.

Holley makes a nice coil cover set up. I may talk the car owner into buying it and paint it blue, with a Ford decal stuck to it.

Hopefully I can get the crossmember fabed up in a week or so.

Any updates?

I will have updates and new pictures posted in the next few days. Just been busy with life.

Thanks for checking in.

Hows the Stang coming along?

Rickpaw I sent you a PM

It's been awhile since I updated this thread.

Had the engine in and try to work out the exhaust manifold set up. Tried the stock truck manifolds, and that did not work. The manifolds stuck out too far, and hitting the steering shaft. Finally rolled the dice on a set of Holley cast iron manifolds, and it fit.

Driver side, clears the steering shaft by at least 0.5".
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https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8778/2...6e21cc4b_z.jpgIMG_1378

Also I lowered the engine/trans as much as I can in order to minimize the tunnel work. Had to enlarge the steering shaft cut out on the driver side engine mounting bracket.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1462/2...20c058c4_z.jpgIMG_1250

I made the trans mount, similar to DSE type mounts, and reuse the stock trans crossmember. I may tie the mounting tabs to the frame rails for added strengths. Right now, there are reinforcing plates inside the pass compartment that the tabs welded onto.
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Also, converted the PCV to the LS6 style set up.
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Had to throw on the LS1 intake on the engine for looks.
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Installing the ATI dampener, from the VA front runner kit bought from a forum member.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8716/2...91d7d8d6_z.jpgIMG_1437

Polished front runner set up.
https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8860/2...75f0d52c_z.jpgIMG_1449

I enlarged the rad opening for a larger Summit universal rad set up
https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8783/2...45bafd1a_z.jpgIMG_1774

Rad mounted
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Started working on mounting the AC condenser. The al hard line provided interfered with the edge of the core support, as the condenser sits too far back. I ended up cutting relief cuts, hit it with a body hammer, and welded up the cuts.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7522/2...8cfde828_z.jpgIMG_2008

Now we have clearance.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7639/2...4220c5e8_z.jpgIMG_2009

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8679/2...56b3cb6c_z.jpgIMG_2010

Next up is try to finish the remaining AC plumbing, and start on engine wiring.

Looking good! You're definitely doing something different with the LS in an early car :D

More work since the last update. The heat/humidity here has been brutal, and slowed my progress quite a bit.

Mounted the Painless F5 fan controller onto the driver side fender

https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7566/2...4954019c_z.jpg

Laid out the PSI wiring harness, and installed in the car. I'm going to mount the ECM by the passenger fender, where the battery used to be.

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While I'm waiting for additional engine parts to come in (fan shroud/starter) to finish up the engine side, I moved to the interior.

Laying out dynamat and dynaliner, half way thru then I ran out of dynaliner. Thought I had more. Good thing I have Amazon Prime.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8339/2...82ef17c2_z.jpg

Also put in the 3 point seat belts.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8145/2...40673b44_z.jpg

Any updates?

Thanks for following, but there's no real updates on my end.

My scope was to swap out the engine/transmission, put in the DSE suspension/new electrical and get the car running - which it got done. The owner picked up the car last year and brought it back to Oregon. Last I heard he has not had the time to finish the car's interior.